Code Alarm remote start/keyless entry system

[deruvian]

Circuit City was having a nice sale on their car security products, so I had a look. The Code Alarm master module (CA425) is required to use any of their entry/start system, and was $62.99. The two-way start/entry module w/ alarm (CA545) was also $62.99. I also bought a glass break sensor for $9.99. The standard installation was $100, but the glass break sensor added another $20.

I found all of this to be very affordable, especially considering that CC has a lifetime warranty on their installations and parts.

However, I called to make an appointment, and the guy said that they have "no technical data" for my car. :rolleyes: Why of course, why would they? He said that they'd need a full day to install it, and he'd need to do it himself (I'm assuming that he is the lead installation man). Because of the lack of info, he might not even be able to install it either. My appointment therefore was pushed out to the 17th of this month. I think I am going to call them back tomorrow, and ask what he meant by "no technical data." If he means absolutely none, I would gladly provide my copy of the service manual in order to have the wiring diagrams available. I would also gladly help him out with the install, and answer all questions that he has (since I feel that I know a fair deal about the SVX). I'd also like to do this to ensure that he'll actually work on it, and not just wait for an hour or two and tell me that it can't be done.

Anyway, I'll keep everyone posted as to what happens, because if it works out, this is a pretty damn good deal.

[michael]

I'm not telling you what to do but i'd re-think your decision. A friend of mine worked at a car stereo shop where loads of CC customers brought their cars after they had problems. A great deal of the work was very sloppy, not to the naked eye but when you look around you may find lazy shortcuts, broken parts glued back together, holes drilled where you don't want them. I even saw a car with wires running from the inside of the car through the door and into the hood because they couldn't get through the firewall. If you can watch and help with the install I would suggest it, but please be carefull. I'm not bashing CC installers but I think it depends on who you get, whether or not they enjoy what they do.

[lee]

My guess (unless he's better than the average CC installer) is he won't be able to read & interpret the FSM drawings. For example will he know how to set up the triggers for the door locks (the SVX has two negative pulse door triggers like in many late-model GM products).

If you bring in the FSM manual and the attached file, he should be able to make the transition.

edit: Don't forget to tell him about the factory starter interupt relay (if your's ever had the OEM alarm).

[deruvian]

Originally posted by michael
I'm not telling you what to do but i'd re-think your decision. A friend of mine worked at a car stereo shop where loads of CC customers brought their cars after they had problems. A great deal of the work was very sloppy, not to the naked eye but when you look around you may find lazy shortcuts, broken parts glued back together, holes drilled where you don't want them. I even saw a car with wires running from the inside of the car through the door and into the hood because they couldn't get through the firewall. If you can watch and help with the install I would suggest it, but please be carefull. I'm not bashing CC installers but I think it depends on who you get, whether or not they enjoy what they do.

Well that's a bummer. I'll be sure to insist on helping out/waiting around with the install. I usually try to keep a close watch on my car when people work on it, especially if they somehow seem to be irreputable in any way.

[deruvian]

Originally posted by lee
My guess (unless he's better than the average CC installer) is he won't be able to read & interpret the FSM drawings. For example will he know how to set up the triggers for the door locks (the SVX has two negative pulse door triggers like in many late-model GM products).

If you bring in the FSM manual and the attached file, he should be able to make the transition.

edit: Don't forget to tell him about the factory starter interupt relay (if your's ever had the OEM alarm).

I'll be sure to bring both the manual and that PDF file (both pages?).

Mine never had the OEM security system, so the starter interrupt shouldn't be an issue.

I suppose that if it doesn't work out, then they'll be refunding my money in full!

Any other suggestions? I hope that I don't end up regretting anything.

[manofmayo]

Since you are in Seattle, I'd recommend Magnolia Hi-Fi (the owner had a svx), they did an excellent job on my stereo, or I would try Car Toys (I've seen a crappy install on an svx and other cars).

I'd take the parts to either of these places have spend the $$$$$ to have them do it right.

[deruvian]

Originally posted by manofmayo
Since you are in Seattle, I'd recommend Magnolia Hi-Fi (the owner had a svx), they did an excellent job on my stereo, or I would try Car Toys (I've seen a crappy install on an svx and other cars).

I'd take the parts to either of these places have spend the $$$$$ to have them do it right.

There are a few Magnolia Hi-Fi stores in the Seattle area, right? Which one did you go to, and is it the one where the owner had an SVX?

I'd love to drop a little more coin for a better, more experienced installer.

[manofmayo]

Since I live in Everett, I went to the one in Everett (on Everett Mall Way). If I remember correctly, the Everett store is their premier store for mobile installations.

The owner of the company (mag hi fi) had an svx. The installer seemed to have a real good knowledge of installing a stereo in an svx.

[rmjjensen]

Don't do it.

They should have information for the SVX. The only reason they wouldn't is because they are not a DEI dealer and therefore do not have access to the www.directechs.com vehicle database.

The SVX is in there, and when I did my car it was correct to the T. If you're still persistent in having them install it - although, please don't. You can give them this datasheet.

12volts - black/yellow + ignition harness
Starter - black/white + ignition harness
Ignition - red + ignition harness
Accessory - red/yellow + ignition harness
Power Lock - orange - center console switch
Power Unlock - orange/green - center console switch
Parking Lights+ - red/white headlight switch
Door Trigger - white/red - underdash light
Trunk/Hatch Pin - yellow/blue - light in trunk
Tachometer yellow ECM
Brake Wire - white/red + brake pedal switch
Horn Trigger - green/black - steering column

Have you considered doing it yourself? The SVX is very easy and I doubt you'll mess anything up. Just set aside a day or two and don't rush it.

[deruvian]

Originally posted by rmjjensen
Don't do it.

They should have information for the SVX. The only reason they wouldn't is because they are not a DEI dealer and therefore do not have access to the www.directechs.com vehicle database.

The SVX is in there, and when I did my car it was correct to the T. If you're still persistent in having them install it - although, please don't. You can give them this datasheet.

12volts - black/yellow + ignition harness
Starter - black/white + ignition harness
Ignition - red + ignition harness
Accessory - red/yellow + ignition harness
Power Lock - orange - center console switch
Power Unlock - orange/green - center console switch
Parking Lights+ - red/white headlight switch
Door Trigger - white/red - underdash light
Trunk/Hatch Pin - yellow/blue - light in trunk
Tachometer yellow ECM
Brake Wire - white/red + brake pedal switch
Horn Trigger - green/black - steering column

Have you considered doing it yourself? The SVX is very easy and I doubt you'll mess anything up. Just set aside a day or two and don't rush it.

I have considered doing it myself... And honestly don't want to deal with the tedium. I called Magnolia Hi-Fi, and they did say that they had experience with the SVX, but could not install a Code Alarm system. If I purchased one of the systems that they carried they would obviously install it, so I think I am going to do some comparison shopping at Mag Hi-Fi to see what prices I can get.

As another note on doing it all myself, here is a list of the things that need to be connected for the Code Alarm remote start and keyless entry system. There are more things than mentioned in the above quote. rmjjensen, you installed a remote starter before, right? If there is anyway you can help and elaborate a little more, you just might be able to get me to try it before I bring it to CC. If it works, then I'll cancel and get my installation money refunded.

These are separated by connectors. They are the actual notes from the installation manual, the comments after the dashes are mine.
• (+) 12v battery - obviously connects to the battery
• (+) Starter input (key side) - ??
• (+) Starter output (motor side) - connects to the positive starter wire??
• (+) Ignition 1 input/output - connects to the ignition wire??

• (+) 12v battery - obviously connects to the battery
• (+) Accessory 1 output
• (+) Accessory 2 output
• (+) Ignition 2 output - ??
• (+) Brake input - at the brake pedal switch??
• (–) Active output - ??

• Safety control switch - ??

• (–) Pulse before start - Appears to bypass the factory alarm
• (–) Pulse after start - Used to relock the doors after remote start, if necessary
• (–) Pulse after shutdown - Used to relock the doors if they unlock after remote start shutdown
• (–) Pulse during crank - ??

• Negative lock/positive unlock - ??
• Negative unlock/positive lock - ??
• (–) Second stage unlock - ??

01) • Dome light output - this requires a fuse in the unit to select positive or negative polarity
02) • Manual arm input
03) • Unlock sense input
04) • (–) Trunk pin input
05) • (–) Instant trigger input
06) • (–) Remote start activation
07) • (–) Hood pin input - the manual states that a hood pin switch is required for remote start verification
08) • (–) Parking brake input - manual states this is only required for the turbo timer
09) • Negative door trigger
10) • Ground
11) • (+) Siren output
12) • Parking light output - this requires a fuse in the unit to select positive or negative polarity
13) • Channel 1 (Trunk)
14) • Manual disarm input
15) • Open
16) • Positive door trigger
17) • (–)Wait to start input
18) • (–) Headlight output
19) • (–) Songbird output
20) • (–) Horn output - Goes to the horn wire at the steering column
21) • Tach input
22) • (–) Armed output

• Valet/override

• LED - should be damn obvious

• (–) Channel 2 output - would be unused
• (–) Channel 3 output - would be unused
• (–) Channel 4 output - would be unused
• (–) Channel 5 output - would be unused

• Antenna/receiver

[kuoh]

To the best of my recollection, the ignition harness has 4 thick wires, B+, IGN, ACC, ST. The additional ignition and accessory outputs from the remote starter aren't needed. Brake input is at the brake pedal as you guessed. Safety neutral unfortunately will require removal of the center console to get at the shift lever sensor. I don't remember which wire, but was able to find it easy enough with a DVM. This wire is optional, but still a good idea to use. The lock, unlock, trunk pin, doors, parking light, factory shutdown, and horn are all available at the securty harness, even if your car didn't have an OEM alarm. I opted to skip the headlights since the parking lights were enough. The tach input can be tapped at the cruise control module, but it would be simpler to use a tachless remote starter.

This isn't something you're going to get done in a couple of hours, plan for it to take an entire day or longer if you're not experienced with remote starters, and triple check your wiring.

KuoH

[rmjjensen]

I think I've done way over 100 remote starts.

Your manual should clarify what each wire does so I'll give you an overview:

• (+) 12v battery:
- connect this to the +12V on the ignition harness (black w/ Yellow)

• (+) Starter input:
- cut the starter wire (black w/ white) This wire connects to the side of the wire that goes to the key cylinder.

• (+) Starter output:
- cut the starter wire (black w/ white) This wire connects to the side of the wire that disappears into the car's harness. (The starter motor side)

• (+) Ignition 1 input/output:
- You state it's an input/output, so I'm guessing this has two wires. It's like an ignition kill if someone tries to steal the car. The input would go to the key cylinder side, output would fish somewhere into the vehicle harness. The ignition wire is Red.

• (+) 12v battery:
- You can tie this wire to the other +12V lead coming out of the alarm. Makes installation easier tieing one wire into the cars harness, and not two heavy gauge ones.

• (+) Accessory 1:
- Tap into the ACC wire (Red w/ Yellow)

• (+) Accessory 2:
- The SVX does not use this wire ...cut it off and insulate it

• (+) Ignition 2:
- The SVX does not use this wire ...cut it off and insulate it

• (+) Brake input:
- The Brake wire stated, tap this into the white w/ red at the brake switch.

• (–) Active output:
- The SVX does not use this wire ...cut it off and insulate it

• Safety control switch:
- Ground this wire

• (–) Pulse before start:
- The SVX does not use this wire ...cut it off and insulate it

• (–) Pulse after start:
- The SVX does not use this wire ...cut it off and insulate it

• (–) Pulse after shutdown:
- The SVX does not use this wire ...cut it off and insulate it

• (–) Pulse during crank:
- The SVX does not use this wire ...cut it off and insulate it

• Negative lock/positive unlock:
- Tap into the negative lock wire: orange at the rocker switch

• Negative unlock/positive lock:
- Tap into the negative unlock wire: orange w/ green at the rocker switch

• (–) Second stage unlock:
- The SVX does not use this wire ...cut it off and insulate it

01) • Dome light output:
- The SVX does not use this wire ...cut it off and insulate it

02) • Manual arm input:
- The SVX does not use this wire ...cut it off and insulate it

03) • Unlock sense input:
- The SVX does not use this wire ...cut it off and insulate it

04) • (–) Trunk pin input:
- Connect this to the Yellow w/ Blue in the trunk at the light.

05) • (–) Instant trigger input:
- The SVX does not use this wire ...cut it off and insulate it

06) • (–) Remote start activation:
- The SVX does not use this wire ...cut it off and insulate it

07) • (–) Hood pin input:
- this is optional. It's more for safety so the remote start can't activate when the hood's open. It might not be safe for the car to start if say it is getting worked on by a mechanic. It's up to you to install this of not - I'd strongly recommend it.

08) • (–) Parking brake input:
- The SVX does not use this wire ...cut it off and insulate it

09) • Negative door trigger
- Connect this to the White w/ Red wire at the under dash light - nice and easy.

10) • Ground
- Find a nice clean ground.

11) • (+) Siren output
- self explanatory

12) • Parking light output:
- Yes, select positive polarity. Connect this to the Red w/ White wire at that "P" switch on the dashboard - nice and easy.

13) • Channel 1 (Trunk):
- The SVX does not use this wire ...cut it off and insulate it

14) • Manual disarm input:
- The SVX does not use this wire ...cut it off and insulate it

15) • Open:
- The SVX does not use this wire ...cut it off and insulate it

16) • Positive door trigger:
- The SVX does not use this wire ...cut it off and insulate it

17) • (–)Wait to start input:
- The SVX does not use this wire ...cut it off and insulate it

18) • (–) Headlight output:
- The SVX does not use this wire ...cut it off and insulate it

19) • (–) Songbird output:
- The SVX does not use this wire ...cut it off and insulate it

20) • (–) Horn output:
- Optional. If you want the horn to honk tap into the Green w/ Black in the steering column harness

21) • Tach input:
- Connect to the Yellow tach wire at the ECM. BE ware - there's more than one yellow.

22) • (–) Armed output:
- The SVX does not use this wire ...cut it off and insulate it

Hope this helps.

Side note - Magnolia hi-fi is a subdivision of the Best Buy division. I'm currently working there but looking for a new job because I don't get paid according to how much I know......I make the least and know the most. But - all of our installers know their sh*t and will take care of any car they work on. Magnolia would be a step above that. If it's like BBuy they sell only DEI and Audiovox which are top notch units. The work will be guarenteed for as long as you own your SVX.

Good luck.

[deruvian]

Sweet. I'm sure that will help! Thanks a ton.

I am going to stick with the CC installation for now, but compile all this info and bring it with me. I will also bring the wiring diagrams from the FSM just in case. I'll stick around at CC, keep a close watch on the installer, and insist on helping (either physically, or just by being near the car and answering his questions). He's already told me that every bit of assistance would be appreciated, so... They also fessed up the ability to totally refund my money if anything doesn't go my way, so I feel pretty comfortable with that.

I'm still going to price-compare with the systems at Mag Hi-Fi.

rmjjensen, is the file that lee posted also a good thing to bring? I attached the info that I compiled. Any chance that you could look it over, and make sure that I didn't miss anything? That would be teh awesome! All the things that aren't in bold, are items that are unused.

BTW - What's the purpose of that safety control switch that you said should be grounded?

I'll be sure to keep everyone posted on the action!

[Tim]

I must say the Best buy install bay is great. I work with the install guys and they really know their stuff. They showed me where they ran all the wires and everything and it was all neatly arranged and hidden pretty well. They really did take their time.

The only thing is the metal tinted windows strike again. My range isn't as good as it should be because people can start their cars towards the middle of the store and I have to be near the front door.:( They have the same Viper 791xv that I do

[deruvian]

Well, I had the installation performed today, and all I can say is that it went great. The installer was friendly, and was very grateful for all the info that I supplied him (the info from this thread, general wiring diagrams from the FSM, the ECU wiring diagrams, and the dual lock info from lee). He felt as though it would be pretty straightforward after seeing my car, and still felt so even afterwords. It was just time consuming because he had never touched an SVX before.

Took about 5 - 6 hours, but works great! Starts up, arms, locks, unlocks, everything... I only have one complaint, and it isn't even very big: He didn't place the siren in a very discreet location in the engine bay. It's directly within site, but that's being sorta picky.

All the wire is loomed and well organized, and he showed me an example of how he solders wire - appeared to be very sturdy.

He even rewired my indiglo gauges for the hell of it, because the install that I did before was kinda cheesy and temporary. They are SO much brighter now! The connection simply has to be much more solid.

Anyway, I'm pretty pleased. I watched him for quite a while, and he seemed to take good care of his work. This could be a rare case, but so far, I certainly haven't found the CC horror stories to be true.

[lee]

Originally posted by deruvian
...snip...

Anyway, I'm pretty pleased. I watched him for quite a while, and he seemed to take good care of his work. This could be a rare case, but so far, I certainly haven't found the CC horror stories to be true.

Great, always nice to hear a happy ending as so many of the posts are just complaints (like mine :rolleyes: )

[michael]

Being pro-active pays off.

[rayford]

This it the second remote start / keyless entry I am installing on my car. The reason for changing now is that the first one is not working part of the time. The last time I didn't have the tach wire hooked up and many times the engine would start but almost immediately die and then restart and after a few times of starting it would stay running. But I think that is caused because the remote module didn't get a signal that the car was running so this time I want to hook up the tach wire. Does anyone know which yellow wire going to the ecu is the correct one and also I have hear that the tach wire coming out of the start module can be hooked to one of the fuel injectors but I don't know which of those wires would be the correct one either so any help would be appreciated, Thanks, Vernon

[deruvian]

Originally posted by rayford
This it the second remote start / keyless entry I am installing on my car. The reason for changing now is that the first one is not working part of the time. The last time I didn't have the tach wire hooked up and many times the engine would start but almost immediately die and then restart and after a few times of starting it would stay running. But I think that is caused because the remote module didn't get a signal that the car was running so this time I want to hook up the tach wire. Does anyone know which yellow wire going to the ecu is the correct one and also I have hear that the tach wire coming out of the start module can be hooked to one of the fuel injectors but I don't know which of those wires would be the correct one either so any help would be appreciated, Thanks, Vernon

Just on quick inspection, it appears as though the installer may have hooked up the tach wire to one of my injectors. Why? I'm not sure. Perhaps I will investigate more.

However, perhaps these wiring diagrams will help you? They illustrate each and every terminal on the ECU, and will hold the answer for you I'm sure.

I believe that the RPM terminal is described on the second page as "Engine revolution output." Connecter B61, terminal number 16, IIRC.

[deruvian]

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[deruvian]

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[kuoh]

Well, the injectors will only pulse if the ECU determines that the engine has started, so it seems like a possible place to splice a tach sensor. However, one of the coil wires might be a safer choice or even run tachless if the module supports. I know DEI and their rebadges, like the Bulldog starters from Walmart that I've used, support tachless operation and work flawlessly.

KuoH

Originally posted by deruvian
Just on quick inspection, it appears as though the installer may have hooked up the tach wire to one of my injectors. Why? I'm not sure. Perhaps I will investigate more.

[rayford]

Thanks, deruvian, I think that diagram will help a bunch,,,, I will see if I can hook it up tomorrow after work if the weather isn't bad...The rest of the hookup isn't going to be bad as I have all the other wires already installed, all I have to do is cut the old unit out and splice in the new one.. Thanks again.Vernon

[rayford]

Thanks for the reply kuoh, I tried to use the tachless mode but it didn't seem to work on this model, I wanted to use a coil wire but I wasn't sure which one to use.. If I can the ecu tach wire that will be handier since I won't have to go in under the hood. Thanks Vernon