Rear wheel bearing how to...

[trieck1232]

:confused: :confused: I've been searching wor a half hour on the site and found alot of info but I was wondering...Is there a pdf or somthing on here, on how to change the rear wheel bearings? I'm sure I could figure it out but since it is a known problem im guessing that sombody has made one? Mabie?


Thanks, Travis

[Manarius]

1. Take wheel off
2. Take off brake caliber and disc (ABS disc is around here too)
3. Disconnect E-Brake Cable (you will have to take apart the e-brake; helps to know what you're doing)
4. Take off Main axle nut
5. Remove axle from hub
6. Remove bolts holding hub to strut/control arm
7. Remove hub
8. Press old bearing out
9. Lube up new bearing with grease
10. Press bearing into hub
11. Repeat steps 1-7 in reverse order in the opposite direction

You will need a lift (preferably) and an air wrench that can put on 250lb/ft torque.

[trieck1232]

So just like most any wheel bearings, I read somthing about changing the grease what is your recommendation? Do you need a bearing press?

[mbtoloczko]

Either a shop press can be used (requires removing the hub) or a hub tamer can be used. Have to be careful when pressing the bearings in with a shop press. If not done correctly, the new bearings can be damaged.

Remove all the packing grease in the new bearings. Don't just wipe it off. Use a solvent to get all the grease out. Make sure to use a solvent that doesn't not damage the plastic bearing cage. Repack the bearings with a top quality wheel bearing grease. Amsoil wheel bearing grease has great specs.

Its a good idea to presoak all the nuts being removed with PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench.

[trieck1232]

ok thanks a bunch!! Should go easy!

[ensteele]

Take some pictures and we can do a How-To using them. :)

[gest24]

If I get around to mine this weekend I could do that. We'll have to see.

[Merz]

I will be doing mine this weekend also, and will take pics. Ive been trying to find instructions for a while now. lots of threads on wheel bearings, but none that explain the procedure. So today i took my car to the dealership, and the guy refused to replace the grease with new bearing grease, even though i brought new grease with me. so i left and will be doing it myself, like i had originally planned.

Also, torque specs for the axle nuts are 123-152 lbs.

any other torque specs we should know?

[Myetball]

I will be doing mine this weekend also, and will take pics. Ive been trying to find instructions for a while now. lots of threads on wheel bearings, but none that explain the procedure. So today i took my car to the dealership, and the guy refused to replace the grease with new bearing grease, even though i brought new grease with me. so i left and will be doing it myself, like i had originally planned.

Also, torque specs for the axle nuts are 123-152 lbs.

any other torque specs we should know?


I recently replaced all four bearing. The fronts weren't bad, stock bearings in a '92. The rears had been replaced by the previous owner and were a mess. The first thing I noticed when I pulled them apart was that the shipping grease was still in the bearings. No surprise why they failed so quickly.

Torque specs. You'll need all the specs for the rear suspension, especially the lateral link-to-knuckle (outer)...heck, here's a link to the specs which are at the end of the PDF file:

http://reaper450128.homeftp.net/pdfs/SUSPENSION___REAR.PDF

This one has a nice cross-section view of the rear hub assembly:

http://reaper450128.homeftp.net/pdfs/AXLE_SHAFTS___REAR.PDF

[SVX10]

What solvent is good for cleaning the bearings? All the ones I've found are not recommended for plastics.

Either a shop press can be used (requires removing the hub) or a hub tamer can be used. Have to be careful when pressing the bearings in with a shop press. If not done correctly, the new bearings can be damaged.

Remove all the packing grease in the new bearings. Don't just wipe it off. Use a solvent to get all the grease out. Make sure to use a solvent that doesn't not damage the plastic bearing cage. Repack the bearings with a top quality wheel bearing grease. Amsoil wheel bearing grease has great specs.

Its a good idea to presoak all the nuts being removed with PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench.

[mbtoloczko]

CRC QD Electric Parts cleaner should be fine. That's what I used. I used brake clean on the races.

[SVX10]

It sounds like you disassembled it first if you used different stuff for different sections. Did you? If so, how do you take it apart?

[mbtoloczko]

Sounds like you haven't looked at the bearing yet. Its just a typical stacked roller bearing. Its not pressed together in any way, so it will fall apart in your hands.

[SVX10]

No, I've got it sitting right here beside me and it's not falling apart. BUT...is that because of the plastic piece on the inner race? Is that some sort of "lock" to keep it from falling apart?

I'm not totally clear on your post...are you saying I can't separate it because it doesn't fall apart, or are you saying it should be very easy to separate and therefore self-explanatory as to how I should clean the individual parts?

[ssnsltd]

The plastic piece is for shipping to hold the bearing together.

Once you pull that out the bearing separates into a "master" outer race housing and two inner race's and two bearing packs. As stated earlier, clean off the shipping grease and use some high temp grease.

One other thing to add in the step-by-step is the brake anti lock sensor removal.

[SVX10]

Thanks. All clear now :)

[mbtoloczko]

Thanks. All clear now :)

oh yeah. I forgot about the plastic sleeve that holds everything together. Its been 3 years since I did the bearings. :-)

[SVX10]

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!
How the EFF do you remove the short bolt for the lateral link? I'm talking about the 17mm bolt that is at the very bottom of the rear knuckle. I've tried everything to get it to break loose..no luck. I'm at my wit's end and need help from y'all :( :(

Everything else broke loose...axle nut, transverse link bolt, even the ABS sensor came out no problem. But this one last bolt won't BUDGE! I've been spraying the heck out of it with PB blaster to no avail. Right now I have a tinfoil form around the bushing/bolt filled with PB so it can soak overnight. I'm sure i was putting a good 300ft lb on there with no effect other than visible deflection in the suspension link it's attached to (not deflection in the bushing...deflection in the link!). WHoever did my last wheel bearing deserves to be shot for torquing the hell out of the bolt.

[mbtoloczko]

I thought that there was a single long bolt for the lateral links.

[Myetball]

I think he's talking about the trailing arm-to-knuckle bolt. I had read some stuff about that one being tough. Then I did my rear wheel bearings and HOLY COW that was one tough nut to crack. Ended up taking two of us each using all our strength with a breaker bar. The bolt just laughed at my pathetic impact wrench.

[SVX10]

Yea..sorry. Wrong terminology. It was the trailing arm bolt. Ended up fashioning a 3' breaker setup for each side of the bolt (head and nut both). Two big guys putting all they have into it finally got it to break loose. We had to do about 4 or 5 raps on it with full breaker bars before we were able to use juse a regular ratchet. It was rediculous.

Then, all went smoothly until I pressed out the hub. The old outside inner race was, of course, still attached to the hub. I had no way of creating a strong lip behind the inner race to press it off. Fortunately, a friend of mine had the exact tool I needed. It was all smooth sailing from there on out except for dropping fresly greased seals on dirty floors and having to clean and re-grease them :rolleyes:

Anyway, it's finished now. It was worth it.

It was odd when I pressed out the old bearing. There was definitely some friction going on in there, and the reason was that about 5 of the rollers has rotated themselves 90deg to an "on end" position. It was rediculous. Old grease was also shot.

I can't thank you guys enough for all the help!

[Marcus]

Hey,

my congratulations for replaceing the wheel bearings on your own. I have the feeling each SVX owner will have to face this problem sooner or later...
Therefore you would do the one of us who did not go thru this repair jet a huge favor in creating an entry in the how-to locker.
Escpecially the tool you mentioned which you borrowed from a friend would deserve a detailled description (your friend might even be able to tell us his source). Hope you took some pics.

Thanks!

Marcus

[SVX10]

I'll see what I can do. Pics aren't necessary, I don't think. Half the time, though, I start writing a how to, get half way through, and then say "this doesn't make any sense without pics :D " That's when I stop working on it. Such as my 1/2 finished HID conversion How-to. But, lucky for y'all I have 2 hrs left at work and nothing to do....here goes nothing....

[Marcus]

Thank you for spending the time on the how to do document, I am sure it will be very helpfull!
Today I searched for parts and looked at Courtesy Subaru Parts. They offer the bearing but also an assembly (aftermarket), which is cheaper.

The picture (attached) seems to indicate that you do not have to press the bearing in it's housing and you need not relubricate it, too. As I know relubrication seems to be very importand on the OEM parts, I wonder wether anyone went the easier and cheaper way useing the assay and would like to hear about the outcome of this.

regards

Marcus

[svxstarship]

I saw this same image on another parts site just yesterday and was wondering if this would be an easier solution also!

[SVX10]

From that picture it looks like it's an entire hub/bearing assembly. That would still need to be pressed into the knuckle. I'm not sure what they're talking about. That picture, however, is definitely not an SVX part. I don't think there's any way around pressing. Plan on spending $130 for a press or close to $300 for a hub tamer if you want to do this on your own (unless you have access to either and can borrow).

I worked alot on the how to. It's almost finished, but I'm going to take a picture of a few things to make it more clear. Keep your eyes peeled for it.

[Patrik70]

Hi!
I´m going to replace my rear wheelbearings as well!
But i´ve got a small issue, There are not so many of the SVX:s in Sweden.
And ordering parts from the Subaru dealers is not a good idea, they order parts from Japan and usually takes up to 2-3 months before receiving the parts!:( .
Does anyone know the number of the SKF bearing that fittes the SVX?
Maybe if someone got the specs or number of the bearing?
Best regards: Patrik

[mbtoloczko]

1stsubaruparts.com (in the USA) will ship parts via EMS to you. Great prices and EMS shouldn't take more than two weeks.

[Myetball]

Hi!
I´m going to replace my rear wheelbearings as well!
But i´ve got a small issue, There are not so many of the SVX:s in Sweden.
And ordering parts from the Subaru dealers is not a good idea, they order parts from Japan and usually takes up to 2-3 months before receiving the parts!:( .
Does anyone know the number of the SKF bearing that fittes the SVX?
Maybe if someone got the specs or number of the bearing?
Best regards: Patrik


SKF Part # for the rear is GRW182.

SKF Part # for the front is FW172.

To check yourself click HERE (http://www2.chicago-rawhide.com/parts_lookup_457012.htm#) and then click on the "click here" link near the top of the page. I used the Timken numbers to cross reference. Rear 516003, Front 517007.

[Patrik70]

SKF Part # for the rear is GRW182.

SKF Part # for the front is FW172.

To check yourself click HERE (http://www2.chicago-rawhide.com/parts_lookup_457012.htm#) and then click on the "click here" link near the top of the page. I used the Timken numbers to cross reference. Rear 516003, Front 517007.

Thank you very much!!

[Marcus]

Hi Guys,

as the OEM parts seem to have some issues, I wonder wether anyone has used SKF Bearings instead.
Do they fit, is it necessary to relubricate them, do they last?

Regards

Marcus

[mohrds]

Hi Guys,

as the OEM parts seem to have some issues, I wonder wether anyone has used SKF Bearings instead.
Do they fit, is it necessary to relubricate them, do they last?

Regards

Marcus

Even the OEM bearings can last if cleaned and regreased on a regular basis. The most important part (well, second after proper torque) is to change the inboard seal every 50,000 miles or so. It is a poor design and lets all kinds of road crap into the bearing when it wears away. Part number is 28015AA080.

I wouldn't leave any bearing in place for life without cleaning/regreasing it.

Doug

[Terminal]

Just had both rears and seals done by the dealership I work for, took the poor guy 5.5 hours when they only quoted me 3.9. Either way, they did everything I asked, de and regreasing the bearings, etc. On the way home, I was a bit miffed to hear that wonderful zzzzt sound yet again, definitely from the rear. Not nearly as frequent as it used to be, but still distinctly there. Is this just a temporary thing as the bearings settle and grease distributes? The buzzing did seem to get less frequent after a couple miles, and overall drivetrain noise has definitely been reduced, but that buzz still raises the hairs on the back of my neck. If this isn't normal for the first day or two of driving on new bearings, guess it'll be time to go in and have them repacked again.

[Earthworm]

The remaining noise is likely your tires. That would explain why it's not constant.

[SVX10]

I finally finished what I would call a very thorough How To. I hope my attempt to explain everything didn't muddy the water. Those of you that have done it, please review for any omissions.

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/user.php?SVX10 (file at bottom right)

My How To is based on using a shop press, 2 jack stands (in addition to the two used to hold the car up), and some sockets (up to 32mm). Hope it helps.

It's a word doc. now, and that makes it a pain to update. Is there anybody that can post this here so that I can edit it, but keep the pictures? Thanks.

**I already found an error. Between 5.1 and 5.2, you need to remove the ABS sensor. But, since it's a word file I can't just go update it. Can anybody help me?**
Mat

[svx 1994]

hey guys thanks, again nice 411.
And I have a question > how to the rear axle nut off without spec tools
I'm answering my own question: I added penetration oil all over the axle nut and then heated the nut and added more penetration oil then the nut came off very easy without any extra press; I used just 31,75 mm socket and about 15-18cm drive, that's it.

[svx 1994]

6. Thoroughly clean knuckle where bearing will sit (brake cleaner is good for this)
7. Put thin layer of bearing grease on inside of knuckle where bearing will sit (make sure all brake cleaner is wiped off before doing this)
8. Press new bearing into knuckle
a. This is a critical step, so be precise and take your time
b. Ensure that bearing has plastic retainer ring installed on inner race to hold the bearing assembly together during pressing.
c. To press in new bearing, you need to find an object that is the same overall diameter as the new bearing’s OUTER race. An object that works perfectly for this is your old bearing’s outer race . DO NOT PRESS ON THE INNER RACE OF THE NEW BEARING!!! Simply place the old outer race on top of the new outer race, and press the new bearing into the knuckle. Press new bearing in from front of knuckle. Continue pressing until bearing is tight against the metal retainer ring formed into the knuckle. At no point should the press take enormous amounts of force. Ensure that your press and the knuckle are at 90* so that bearing presses in straight.
9. Re-install snap ring. Ensure that spring clip sits in the groove on the outboard edge of the new bearing
10. Install new outer oil seal. Will need to be pressed in (again, use old outer race as press tool), but pressing effort is very light.
11. Install new inner oil seal. Will need to be pressed in (again, use old outer race as press tool), but pressing effort is very light.
12. Re-install ABS tone wheel
13. Press hub back into housing.
a. While you are pressing the hub into the bearing’s inner race, the hub will displace the plastic retainer ring on the inner race of the bearing. This retainer ring is holding things together and keeping the inner races from separating from each other during the press. In order to keep the inner races from moving once this ring is displaced, you need to support the inner race on the back/bottom side of the bearing. To do so, when you are setting up this press, simply take the two inner races from the old bearing, and stack them on top of each other. Then set the knuckle/bearing assembly on top of these inner races so that the hole in the new inner race lines up with the holes of the stacked inner races. Now, when you press the hub into the new inner races, they cannot displace because they are being supported by the old inner races. If you don’t do this, the inboard inner race of your new bearing will fall out of the rear of the knuckle as you press the hub into place.

Now you should have a complete knuckle with a new bearing installed. Now just re-install the knuckle. Don’t forget to re-install the ABS sensor and e-brake cable into the knuckle, and get your pictures so you know how to put the e-brake back together
Mat

i did like this "How To" says, but now the car sounds like the rear bearing is messed up even more sound even with extra crust than it was before with the old one, what did I do wrong or maybe miss in the instruction ? Need some help pls.

svx 2wd 1994, Front WD. Problems with the rear bearing.