Check Engine code 24, what is it?

[vzSvx]

My engine shuts off while driving or while standing on a red light. The Check Engine shows up and disppears when I turn the car back on. Some other times, the check Engine light stays on while I'm driving. This has been happening since early December 2007. I had the tune up done, thinking that's all I needed, but the problem did not go away. After a few research here, I suspected it's the MAF sensor. I cleaned the sensor and my car was working fine for 4 days. Now, it's doing it again and I think even worse. I was thinking of buying a new or re-manufactured MAF sensor and just replace it anyway. When I checked the codes, it was reading 24, what does this mean? What do I do next? Do I still need to replace the MAF sensor? I think it's not sensor. I am feeling so frustrated already and am about to give up on my SVX. I just love this car, and I hate to part with it. Please help!

viv

[Trevor]

Trouble Code 24 indicates a problem with the Bypass Air Control Solenoid Valve. This valve controls air intake when the engine is idling, so that this adds up with the faults you describe.

[YourConfused]

I had code 23 and 24.
I fixed the MAF for code 23 and the code 24 never came back. Just shows how system sensors are interrelated and sometimes deceptive.

[vzSvx]

Thanks. I appreciate the infos. I was determined to replace the MAF sensor, but when I checked the codes this evening and got a reading of trouble code 24, I am not sure what to do. I don't even know where this Bypass Air Control Solenoid Valve located and how to fix it. Is it something that I can fix myself by just replacing the part?...or do I need a mechanic to do it? I am not mechanically inclined when it comes to fixing cars but I tried. I just love driving this car and unfortunately, when it breaks down I can't find a mechanic who wants to work with it because the parts are hard to find. What I've been doing in the past was to find the part myself and bring it to them and I just paid them for the labor.

Where do I even start to fix this problem? Please I need some guidance. I appreciate all your help. Thanks again.

[Hondasucks]

Check the hose that connects the IACV to the air box, if that hose is cracked it will throw a code and cause problems. Also you could try cleaning out the IACV with some throttle body cleaner, it could just be gummed up.

[Trevor]

Thanks. I appreciate the infos. I was determined to replace the MAF sensor, but when I checked the codes this evening and got a reading of trouble code 24, I am not sure what to do. I don't even know where this Bypass Air Control Solenoid Valve located and how to fix it. Is it something that I can fix myself by just replacing the part?...or do I need a mechanic to do it? I am not mechanically inclined when it comes to fixing cars but I tried. I just love driving this car and unfortunately, when it breaks down I can't find a mechanic who wants to work with it because the parts are hard to find. What I've been doing in the past was to find the part myself and bring it to them and I just paid them for the labor.

Where do I even start to fix this problem? Please I need some guidance. I appreciate all your help. Thanks again.

A faultyy hose will not result in a code as the ECU relies on electrical signals for sensing. However it is a sophisticated set up and should react in the event of the valve being jammed with debris and thus causing an abnormal inductance.

Here is a write up I did on the BPACSV (IACV) some time ago, with the aim of having it included within the how too stuff. ---

By-Pass Air Control Solenoid Valve, or Idle Air Control Valve.
Cleaning, setting and Testing.

Description.

The By-Pass Air Control Solenoid Valve, or Idle Air Control Valve, allows the Engine Control Unit/Computer, to control an adjustable inlet of air in order to control idle speed when the throttles are shut. One obvious function is to increase the airflow when the air conditioning system imposes an extra load on the engine. The SVX has a second valve, The Bypass Air Control Valve, to supply extra air during cold starting.

The unit comprises a rotary solenoid valve, biased towards a central rest position by means of a permanent magnet. A double wound coil provides reversing open closed operation from a mean rest position, at which point the valve is half open. This arrangement provides two way variable control, dependent on the applied voltage.

Three electrical connections are involved. The centre pin on the connector is common to both windings and is energised positive. The remaining two connections provide for open and close operation of the valve via negative circuits.

Cleaning and Adjusting.

Cleaning is best achieved by removing the solenoid coil by undoing the two attachment screws, which pass through slotted holes so as to provide a degree of adjustment. Make a scratch mark, so that the original position can be retained after reassembly. Magnetic force will be apparent as the solenoid coil is separated from main body.

The armature which rotates in ball races, when moved by hand should rotate open closed, with virtually no resistance. The valve should be cleaned of foreign matter using a suitable solvent/lubricant so that is completely free to move.

After reassembly the valve should rest in a position, half open and half shut when set to the original mark. If there is a large discrepancy, this may indicate that the setting has been tampered with at some time and it should be reset.

Testing.

The solenoid resistance should measure 9 ohms, each side of the common connection, i.e. 18 ohms overall, a small tolerance being acceptable.

With positive to the common connection, 8 volts DC applied alternatively to the two remaining connections, should fully open and close the valve from rest. Return to the rest position should occur reliably without hesitation. In the event that 12 volts must be used, this will suffice for intermittent testing, but the extra torque available must be appreciated,

If a variable voltage source is available, continuous opening closing according to the applied voltage can be reproduced. However this more critical test is in no way a necessity.



The valve is located on the underside of the inlet manifold towards the rear. It is possible to get a cleaning solvent into the valve via the connecting tubes, without removing the valve, but this is not guaranteed fix.

You have a problem in not having mechanical knowledge, but the above information may assist someone in helping you. Any mechanic with decent credentials, should have no trouble sorting the problem. ;)

[vzSvx]

I didn't drive my car for a week while waiting for the MAF sensor I ordered because it died almost every 100 ft. so I had no choice but to keep it in my garage until I got the part . I replaced the MAF sensor with a re-manufactured one ($304.00). Now it seems to be working great and didn't die anymore. I still can't help but get nervous while I am idling on a traffic jam or while sitting on a red light. I hope this has fixed the problem. Thanks again to all of you who are so generous with your time and knowledge in helping others. I am so proud to be part of this organization...community...family...or however you call it.

[Trevor]

Great news as it was a curly problem to sort out.

Enjoy the car, mine has NEVER let me or my wife down.:)

[vzSvx]

Great news as it was a curly problem to sort out.

Enjoy the car, mine has NEVER let me or my wife down.:)

Thanks, it was a curly problem indeed, specially when I located the BPCSV. No way I could get to it. I just wanted to take it out and clean it, but I figured that changing the MAF sensor first might help. Somehow, it's working fine for now. Eventually, I may have to take my car to my mechanic to check the BPCSV if it dies again.

I am smiling again!:):):)