NO MORE CLICK click CLICK START..ONLY START! starter relay

[SomethingElse]

Well it finally happened to me..click click click yadda yadda yadda why wont this ****ing car start!.....after tracing the wiring diagram and drawing out the circuit I began to do a simple voltage drop test in the most conspicuous area....THE INHIBITOR RELAY!!! GUESS WHAT!!! BAD INTERNAL CONTACTS...VOLTAGE DROP!!!

Ok sorry I got a little CAPS happy

replace relay...start start start start start

US models only, so our non us members with non us spec SVXii could not assist....we suck..before adding relays do yourself a favor and replace the bad one first.

Inhibitor relay + inhibits starting = fail.

[Hocrest]

How about a little help for the lazy amongst us??

Where abouts?
Pics of the bastard?

[SomethingElse]

Mine was hanging under the dash... it may be attached to your steering colum..its a black box relay attached to a harness with 4 pins (connecting to a 5 pin relay as young buck Tom found out the hard way).

wiring diagram calls it starter inturupt relay adapter

I will can take pics tommorrow I need to fix the mess I made...sorry its late

[subiemech85]

do show and tell!!

[TomsSVX]

Its the only black relay under the driver's side dash... I will give it a go sometime as my car had serious starting issues before the relay mod. Will be a good test bed to confirm

Tom

[Sov13t]

Cool find! Relay mod be gun?

Can it start cars that ran out of gas too? :o

[Trevor]

Well it finally happened to me..click click click yadda yadda yadda why wont this ****ing car start!.....after tracing the wiring diagram and drawing out the circuit I began to do a simple voltage drop test in the most conspicuous area....THE INHIBITOR RELAY!!! GUESS WHAT!!! BAD INTERNAL CONTACTS...VOLTAGE DROP!!!

Ok sorry I got a little CAPS happy

replace relay...start start start start start

US models only, so our non us members with non us spec SVXii could not assist....we suck..before adding relays do yourself a favor and replace the bad one first.

Inhibitor relay + inhibits starting = fail.

Good one Eric.

Hoooooray, at long long last someone has had the brains to trace the problem. :)

I have always suspected the inhibit relay because it is a normally closed device. This means that the contacts are closed by only spring pressure and also have limited over travel. As a result they are more prone to give trouble, than normally open contacts.

As I keep pointing out, a fault of this sort left existing, could in future result in a completely open circuit. In which case a slave relay will not overcome the problem. Be very sure it will happen on a wet dark night, a long way from assistance. :eek:

Cheers , Trevor.

[BoxerFanatic]

One question:

is it a standardized part, or is it a subaru or SVX specific module.

Part number or specification, as well as location would be helpful. I need to replace my steering column shroud covers anyway...

[SomethingElse]

Ill do my best to do a quick write up by lunch time, with pics and part #.

And hopfully by this weekend, Ill write up a how-to no start diagnositic flow chart.

[Trevor]

Ill do my best to do a quick write up by lunch time, with pics and part #.

And hopfully by this weekend, Ill write up a how-to no start diagnositic flow chart.

Good one Eric.

The complete start initiate circuit is not on record and this will be of real value. The inhibitor switch, security system and starter interrupt relay are also niggers in the wood pile. :eek:

How about breaking open the faulty relay and advising what you find. Return spring pressure weak, obstruction in the armature return, or whatever. You are the first to properly diagnose the fault, so might as well go the full distance. :D

Cheers, Trevor.

[SomethingElse]

How about breaking open the faulty relay and advising what you find. Return spring pressure weak, obstruction in the armature return, or whatever. You are the first to properly diagnose the fault, so might as well go the full distance. :D

Cheers, Trevor.

Already planned to :D, im pulling it apart as soon as i get to work...i suspect ill find the contacts melted, corroded, and deformed on the secondary half as ive seen before on other bad relays.

[SomethingElse]

got to work..opened it up..sure enough...the spring was slightly deformed causing it to only make contact in one small area...after years of being abused in one spot it began to develope craters

Its just a plain relay the same one used for the band-aid fix 12v 20/30 amps
the #s read 0332204150

the location,
12853
12854

the relay,
12855

and the contacts inside the relay...
12856

[Mike621]

Looks like I know what Ill be doing to the Ebony this weekend! :D

[SomethingElse]

running 15 or so starts strong:) took it out to lunch and ran some errands..

I even stalled my car on purpose a couple times just to hear the sweet goodness of starter solenoid engaugement on the first try:lol:

[major7venth]

Question, did it act as if it had a bad starter solenoid? click, no starter turn?

[SomethingElse]

Question, did it act as if it had a bad starter solenoid? click, no starter turn?

yup. you can hear it click under the hood at the solenoid. There isnt enough juice at the end of the circuit.

[BoxerFanatic]

Sounds exactly like mine...

new relay and steering column shroud install... here I come. :D

[Trevor]

got to work..opened it up..sure enough...the spring was slightly deformed causing it to only make contact in one small area...after years of being abused in one spot it began to develope craters

Its just a plain relay the same one used for the band-aid fix 12v 20/30 amps
the #s read 0332204150

and the contacts inside the relay...
12856

Just as I had predicted. :(

However I did not expect such a piece of badly designed junk, even though automotive electrics tend to be cheap and crude. My company would not have rated that relay, as capable of switching more than 5 amps of inductive load. It would have been out of the question to use same in any industrial situation.

It is up to the Subaru designers to explain why a diode is not included across the solenoid winding, so as to shunt a nasty inductive opening spike. A normally closed relay opening such an unprotected circuit, is exceptionally vulnerable. :confused:

[TomsSVX]

You phail.... The relay is a 5 pin w/ 87a... Gonna need the right relay to do the proper test....

Tom

[Trevor]

You phail.... The relay is a 5 pin w/ 87a... Gonna need the right relay to do the proper test....

Tom

Who, what phail Tom?:confused: Right relay? :confused: What relay?:confused: Proper test?:confused: What test?:confused:

Trevor ;)

[TomsSVX]

Who, what phail Tom?:confused: Right relay? :confused: What relay?:confused: Proper test?:confused: What test?:confused:

Trevor ;)

Trevor you are the one person here I would expect never to take anything as an absolute.

The 4 pin generic relay is not able to work in place a of the 5pin relay fitted stock. I will get a new bosch 5 pin relay tomorrow at work and try again tomorrow night.

Eric phails because he is good at it. You phail because its getting annoying

Tom

[SomethingElse]

Trevor you are the one person here I would expect never to take anything as an absolute.

The 4 pin generic relay is not able to work in place a of the 5pin relay fitted stock. I will get a new bosch 5 pin relay tomorrow at work and try again tomorrow night.

Eric phails because he is good at it. You phail because its getting annoying

Tom

Im not a very articulate person..there are only 4 pins connecting to the 5 pin relay man i gotta quit drinking...as much :o

I gave you a part # what more do you want? U want me to come install it too!:mad::rolleyes:

The band-aid relay gsodonis had installed was a 5 pin...guess he was thinking ahead

It still seems too easy to be true...all this mess we made with the "relay mod" and the repair was so dam simple....

[TomsSVX]

Thats why I want to confirm because it is overly simple.

Thanks for keeping the eye out

Tom

[Trevor]

The fault always was simple. The logical approach is simply, simple. Simple Simons, never simply trace a simple fault. ;) :lol:

[My92SVX]

This no workie for me.. Took the relay off the ebony SVX I just bought which has no click, click trouble.. Put that relay on pearly and put the one on pearly on the ebony one.. Well, result.. Pearly still goes click , click and ebony goes vroom.. lol.. Anyhow.. I think I know what the problem on the pearly is.. I had the cover off the steering column off one time to tighten the bolts for the ingnition switch.. I noticed that the back of the ignition cylinder was/is lose.. I have a feeling that is where my problem lies. Maybe i'll look into that this weekend.

[SomethingElse]

I noticed that the back of the ignition cylinder was/is lose.. I have a feeling that is where my problem lies. Maybe i'll look into that this weekend.

Faulty ignition switches do cause the same symptoms, in my case the switch had already been replaced.

when I write the no start diag I will explain how to diagnose the starter circuit using a volt meter and doing voltage drop tests.

If you dont have a voltmeter and you want to throw parts at the car immediatly, the relay is the cheapest and easiest place to start.

[My92SVX]

Hey Eric.. I was kind of crossing my fingers that it was the relay.. I really do not want to get at that ignition switch.. Plus.. I really don't want to replace it. Cause I don't want a different key just for the ignition.. I'm going to do some search on here.. However, I don't think anyone has actually tackled fixing the switch. Anyhow.. I'm sure your info will help others. :)

[SomethingElse]

Hey Eric.. I was kind of crossing my fingers that it was the relay.. I really do not want to get at that ignition switch.. Plus.. I really don't want to replace it. Cause I don't want a different key just for the ignition.. I'm going to do some search on here.. However, I don't think anyone has actually tackled fixing the switch. Anyhow.. I'm sure your info will help others. :)

you dont replace the whole tumbler assy. its just the electrical part at the end. Im trying to find it at subaruparts.com but am having a hard time.

[Hocrest]

83131pa000 is the ignition switch part number, I think I paid like $35 from Liberty Subaru.

... but it's still clicking, so big thanks to Eric for my next project.

[SomethingElse]

83131pa000 is the ignition switch part number, I think I paid like $35 from Liberty Subaru.

... but it's still clicking, so big thanks to Eric for my next project.

my car starts every time.

heres linky to the part at autozone. they call it the power window relay but its the same p/n. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/oems/oemsShelf.jsp?categoryDisplayName=Electrical+%26+L ighting&fromType=oem&fromString=search&parentId=57-0&filterByKeyWord=0332204150&currentPage=1&navValue=15701334&categoryNValue=15799999&rootType=oem&itemId=1334-0&displayName=Relay+-+Power+Window

[Tim]

I just bought a relay and installed it. Took about 15 minutes. My car starts every time now :D

[BoxerFanatic]

Ok... I just spent an hour under the dash of my SVX looking for this daggum thing... and I didn't even see it.

I saw an orange relay and plug, that I put back on it's mounting tab, as it was hanging...

I saw a rubber covered sort of relay screwed to a point under the steering column. But only three leads... didn't look like the right thing.

Lots of plugs, lots of wiring under there, but I didn't see a bosch-style relay.

I just went back and looked at Eric's posted pictures.... and it looks like it is near a white sliding linkage assembly... just to confirm, that is around the top of the brake pedal, and the white linkage is the hood release, right?

Or is it on the gas-pedal, and HVAC side?

I suppose tomorrow, I should take back the 4-pin relay, and get the 5 pin relay, anyway.

It all gives me an excuse to put on the new ignition light ring, and a better-condition steering wheel shroud, anyway. :D

[SomethingElse]

Ok... I just spent an hour under the dash of my SVX looking for this daggum thing... and I didn't even see it.

I saw an orange relay and plug, that I put back on it's mounting tab, as it was hanging...

I saw a rubber covered sort of relay screwed to a point under the steering column. But only three leads... didn't look like the right thing.

Lots of plugs, lots of wiring under there, but I didn't see a bosch-style relay.

I just went back and looked at Eric's posted pictures.... and it looks like it is near a white sliding linkage assembly... just to confirm, that is around the top of the brake pedal, and the white linkage is the hood release, right?

Or is it on the gas-pedal, and HVAC side?

I suppose tomorrow, I should take back the 4-pin relay, and get the 5 pin relay, anyway.

It all gives me an excuse to put on the new ignition light ring, and a better-condition steering wheel shroud, anyway. :D

mine was on the gas pedal hvac side...Thunder Tom said its supposed to be mounted to the steering colum.

[BoxerFanatic]

ok...

I'll have to take another look.

The bit that was screwed to the steering column looks like a relay, with three pins, not four or five... although it had a metal mounting tab, which could have served as a ground, instead of a fourth pin for ground.

The odd thing is that it was covered in a rubber square sleeve, with a slot at the top for the mounting tab to come through, and just the electrical plug coming out of the other end. It almost looked weather-proofed or something.

It had a Mitsubishi/Subaru part number on the rubber sleeve, but I didn't jot it down. It is fairly easy to get to, so maybe I'll take it off, and snap some pics tomorrow.

I did take it down, and disconnected it to investigate... then put it right back. The car did start a bit easier, afterward...

BTW... what is the little footwell light bulb supposed to attach to down there? it was just hanging on it's wire, and I didn't see a place to fasten it to...

[Tim]

Mine was mounted to the steering column. Its on the left side of the steering column if you are looking at it from the outside of the car.

It's on the right side of the steering column if you are underneath the dash lying down. :)

[yt]

the three pin is for your blinkers/hazards. Don't mess with that one they are fragile.

There is a 4 wire harness going to a 5pin relay connector. Yes it still uses 4 wires but the relay must be the 5 pin style

Tom

[immortal_suby]

the three pin is for your blinkers/hazards. Don't mess with that one they are fragile.



Ah - so that is what I destroyed when I did the heater core last weekend.

I was wondering what it did. It did not like to still be connected when I dropped the steering column. A little super glue and solder and I patched her up. Must have done a decent job, my signals all work.

Well, that doesn't explain why my airbag light is on now. I was hoping that little gadget was what did it.

[bcpianoman]

This thread just saved me a whole pile of heartache and expense. I had this same problem and, with the information in this thread, I fixed it an 15 minutes. Before I found this thread I had planned to replace my starter when it wasn't the problem at all.

Thanks to all who contributed.

[Hocrest]

Eric helped me out with this back at the Pumpkin Carve Meet in October at OT's and I haven't had a click since then :)

Over the summer I replaced the ignition switch which helped to reduce the clicking to an occasional problem, but this has eliminated it completely...

[1986nate]

Maybe this thread should be made a sticky for all to easily find in the future...

[Trevor]

Maybe this thread should be made a sticky for all to easily find in the future...

At the very least a reference, or better still a link, should be included within the how to stuff.

[dave-o]

Well it finally happened to me..click click click yadda yadda yadda why wont this ****ing car start!.....after tracing the wiring diagram and drawing out the circuit I began to do a simple voltage drop test in the most conspicuous area....THE INHIBITOR RELAY!!! GUESS WHAT!!! BAD INTERNAL CONTACTS...VOLTAGE DROP!!!

Ok sorry I got a little CAPS happy

replace relay...start start start start start

US models only, so our non us members with non us spec SVXii could not assist....we suck..before adding relays do yourself a favor and replace the bad one first.

Inhibitor relay + inhibits starting = fail.

Thanks SE!!! saved me a bunch of troubleshooting!

[BoxerFanatic]

Very handy thread, second that this should be kept somewhere handily found.

my car has been starting every time since. Big help in the reliability department.

Thanks, SVX World Network, and SomethingElse, in particular. :D

[Trevor]

Very handy thread, second that this should be kept somewhere handily found.

my car has been starting every time since. Big help in the reliability department.

Thanks, SVX World Network, and SomethingElse, in particular. :D

Reference most certainly should be be included within the how too stuff.

Here we have a fault located and fixed, rather than the application of a band aid. The fitting of a slave relay is a means of overcoming a defective circuit, but when the fault has not been located and fixed, future trouble remains in the waiting.

[RSVX]

Reference most certainly should be be included within the how too stuff.

Here we have a fault located and fixed, rather than the application of a band aid. The fitting of a slave relay is a means of overcoming a defective circuit, but when the fault has not been located and fixed, future trouble remains in the waiting.

Consider the request submitted to those who can make this happen.

[lhopp77]

got to work..opened it up..sure enough...the spring was slightly deformed causing it to only make contact in one small area...after years of being abused in one spot it began to develope craters

Its just a plain relay the same one used for the band-aid fix 12v 20/30 amps
the #s read 0332204150

the location,
12853
12854



Adding my two cents. Better pic of location to post in parts location section of How-To.

You will note that it is a long mounting bolt (14mm head) that DOES NOT need to be completely screwed out. The mounting bracket on the relay is slotted and will slip out when the bolt is loosened. IF the part you buy has a mounting hole, simply clip the ends as in pic StarterRelay4.

Bosch part# 0332204150
Autozone part# 19861
Carquest part# RY115

And I fully agree--WHY do the bandaid fix instead of the REAL fix???? Uses the same part.

Lee

[kwren]

Adding my two cents. Better pic of location to post in parts location section of How-To.

You will note that it is a long mounting bolt (14mm head) that DOES NOT need to be completely screwed out. The mounting bracket on the relay is slotted and will slip out when the bolt is loosened. IF the part you buy has a mounting hole, simply clip the ends as in pic StarterRelay4.

Bosch part# 0332204150
Autozone part# 19861
Carquest part# RY115

And I fully agree--WHY do the bandaid fix instead of the REAL fix???? Uses the same part.

Lee

Great information Lee! Thank you!!!

To answer your question, we all went to the bandaid fix because we wanted to start our cars and no one on this form had a clue what the story was on the circuit so some of us designed an excellent way to get the car started.
I will certainly replace the correct part on my 2 cars now that I know what to do.
Changing the correct part will last longer than the mod as well because starting the car with the correct part will not involve relay contacts that arc when the ignition switch is turned to start!
With the old mod, the relays have a short lifespan if the car is started a lot.

Thanks again, Lee!

Keith:cool:

[kwren]

one more little thing...
The howto section might be technically correct, however... It would go mostly unseen on this form.

Keith:cool:

[SomethingElse]

I put "click" and "start" in the title because they seemed to be the most common words people would search for that have this complaint about our no start condition.

I feel the need to add some addional info.
My ignition switch finally took a final crap my car wont start at all now...
Gads already replaced it once before I got the car. It seems when these contacts start going bad in the relay it begins to draw excessive current through the switch causing more arcing, melting contacts.

Do yourself a favor. if your experiencing this symptom and have no idea if the switch or relay have been replaced...It would be good practice to replace both pieces at the same time. This way one wont wear out the other and both parts will last longer.

the Ignition switch subaru # ....83131pa000 (thanks hocrest)
and the relay (thanks Ihop77)
Bosch part# 0332204150
Autozone part# 19861
Carquest part# RY115

[Wikedjuggalo]

Sigh

I was hoping for a 10 dollar relax fix but I can't find the rely. I checked the diagram for the alarm system and it seems they would have removed it in install. Now I have to order the expensive ignition and hope that fixes the issue. Because I'll be damn there is no relay up there like the one pictured.

[kwren]

Come on guitar picker!

Bite the bullet and get your head under there and find that rascal!!

Maybe a good light and a mirror would do the trick for you.

Keith:cool:

[Wikedjuggalo]

Come on guitar picker!

Bite the bullet and get your head under there and find that rascal!!

Maybe a good light and a mirror would do the trick for you.

Keith:cool:

Trust me its not under that dash or near the steering column. I spent 3 hrs today looking for that thing. I did learn a lot about the Clifford alarm system installed on the car. I shifted though all the wires including the "glass break and immobilizer boxes or whatever". They did manage to place the bolt in the proper mounting place but minus the relay.

[oab_au]

Just on the off chance that it is the gearbox inhibitor switch, try starting it in N instead of P.

Harvey.

[Wikedjuggalo]

Just on the off chance that it is the gearbox inhibitor switch, try starting it in N instead of P.

Harvey.

Started right up. today I haven't had the clicking issue but I'm sure it will return.

[NikFu S.]

Whoo hoo!

This worked for me. :D

[oab_au]

Started right up. today I haven't had the clicking issue but I'm sure it will return.

You are right it is the inhibitor switch that is causing the trouble, but it is the high current flow that is the problem. I would do the Bosch relay mod to remove the 30 amp flow from all the switches that carry it. If you do the mod you can forget about replacing the switch as it will work OK when they only carry the 0.1.. amps that the relay needs to switch the 30 amps to the starter .

This is a link to the mod.
Cheers Harvey.

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...ht=Bosch+relay

[Lookin4SVX]

Harvey that link doesn't work, I get 404 error.

[oab_au]

Harvey that link doesn't work, I get 404 error.

Sorry try .this.
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=50374&highlight=Bosch+relay

Harvey.

[Lookin4SVX]

yup that works.

[Trevor]

You are right it is the inhibitor switch that is causing the trouble, but it is the high current flow that is the problem. I would do the Bosch relay mod to remove the 30 amp flow from all the switches that carry it. If you do the mod you can forget about replacing the switch as it will work OK when they only carry the 0.1.. amps that the relay needs to switch the 30 amps to the starter .

This is a link to the mod.
Cheers Harvey.

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...ht=Bosch+relay

It is not high current which is, or could be causing the problem. If this is/was the cause, there would have always been a problem, and every SVX would have a problem. The problem is caused by a fault which has developed, as a result of high current.

The faulty component should be located and corrected. Otherwise there could be a return of the problem at some later date.

For confirmation and the complete correct information, run back here to posts #46 and #47 and then read this thread through completely.

[Wikedjuggalo]

Trever and Harvey,

Trust me no one wants this clicking to go away more then me. I have searched high and low for this relay but will do so again in an attempted to make sure I haven't missed it. I am not sure about the band aid fix but if that is the root of the problems that is a different story. I appreciate both your guys help .

My issue is special with it being warmer not having the clicking happening as much. as a matter of fact in the past 3 days I haven't really recalled it clicking but it might have. In place of the not clicking I have developed stalling which I will contribute to MAF due to it random and starting right back up. Good thing I have another svx with a good one...

[kwren]

Trust me its not under that dash or near the steering column. I spent 3 hrs today looking for that thing. I did learn a lot about the Clifford alarm system installed on the car. I shifted though all the wires including the "glass break and immobilizer boxes or whatever". They did manage to place the bolt in the proper mounting place but minus the relay.

I think the "Clifford alarm system installed on the car." statement tells volumes!

The "missing relay" is also part of the original alarm system circuit...

Keith:cool:

[Trevor]

Trever and Harvey,

Trust me no one wants this clicking to go away more then me. I have searched high and low for this relay but will do so again in an attempted to make sure I haven't missed it. I am not sure about the band aid fix but if that is the root of the problems that is a different story. I appreciate both your guys help .

My issue is special with it being warmer not having the clicking happening as much. as a matter of fact in the past 3 days I haven't really recalled it clicking but it might have. In place of the not clicking I have developed stalling which I will contribute to MAF due to it random and starting right back up. Good thing I have another svx with a good one...

When a security system is not fitted, the starter interrupt relay is not fitted and the relay plug connection is bridged by a simple plug. If your car was not fitted with a security system from new, there will be no relay.

It would appear that you have two intermittent faults and therefore have a real problem. As by now you will realise, you can't locate a fault when it is not playing up. :( The ignition switch must be very suspect, as it the item you are moving most often.

You talk about warmth/heat. The major factor here will be the temperature of the actual car. How do things compare, cold/hot engine? :confused:

You are the detective on site. Having received information, apply common sense and logic. In these circumstances the simple approach can be vital, and applied on the spot supersedes science. If you find a clue, shout. You are not on your own. ;)

[kwren]

When a security system is not fitted, the starter interrupt relay is not fitted and the relay plug connection is bridged by a simple plug. If your car was not fitted with a security system from new, there will be no relay.


Couldn't have said it better... Or could I?

I think the "Clifford alarm system installed on the car." statement tells volumes!

The "missing relay" is also part of the original alarm system circuit...

Keith:cool:

[Wikedjuggalo]

Couldn't have said it better... Or could I?

Keith,

I think I misunderstood you and my apologies for that. I appreciate everyone's help in this matter.

Trevor,

To answer your question about car temperature it has not affected the clicking. I have had it clicking while cold and warm from what I recall. I will start taking note of when it offers again. I have not ,today while driving, noticed it again. The temperature outside has been in the 80-90 (Fahrenheit). I can't comment on the nature of the issue again until it occurs again.

[kwren]

Keith,

I think I misunderstood you and my apologies for that. I appreciate everyone's help in this matter.


I appreciate that, guitar picker. As an old navy man and a guitar picker my self, I am one of your biggest fans!:D

Keith:cool:

[NiftySVX]

This is funny because I have been meaning to add this relay to my car because it will currently start even with the alarm sounding, as I pulled the security box off the AWD donor car long ago. Perhaps I should leave it?

This crappy relay must be an SOA deal. I know the alarm was handled by SOA..it seems odd that the car would have come with a bosch relay..

[kwren]

This crappy relay must be an SOA deal. I know the alarm was handled by SOA..it seems odd that the car would have come with a bosch relay..

not as odd as you might think. all of mine use Bosch relays... more than one of them.

the 30,000 miles Bordeaux pearl one ... 36,000 liquid silver miles one, 187,000 miles claret one as well.

Have to admit I was surprised on the first one till I got to considering the possible reasons.:)

Keith:cool:

[SVX10]

Worked for me too! YESSSS! Good find...I've been annoyed by this for years :)

[Trevor]

The relay involved here uses normally closed contacts which rely on spring pressure, in order to maintain contact. The relay is being used in accordance with its absolute maximum specifications and therefore trouble is always likely. It is included in the security system in order to interrupt the starter circuit, when the system is armed.

If this feature is not considered necessary, or in the event that the OEM security system is nor being used, the relay can be, and should be removed and bypassed.. The two wires coloured blue/white and black/white, connected to the sockets in the connector, which form an inner "T", should be connected together, or the sockets securely bridged.

It could be a good idea to have this information included in the new how too section.

[nexus_7]

Finally got around to doing this today...havent had the issue with this car often...but why not. Thanks

Greg

[SomethingElse]

Sweet! im glad this thread is helping so many PPL! :D

should it be a sticky yet?

[SVXalter]

Will this solution only work on cars that originally came with a security system? I have a 1996 L that is clicking and not starting. Is it true that I don't even have the relay?

[oab_au]

Will this solution only work on cars that originally came with a security system? I have a 1996 L that is clicking and not starting. Is it true that I don't even have the relay?

Dan the starter system has a few contacts that fail due to the high current that flows, when the starter is first hit. These are the ignition key switch, gearbox inhibitor switch and the security relay, (if the car is fitted with it). any of these can burn and cause the 'click, click,' problem. The most common, is the gearbox inhibitor switch, you may find it will start if the lever is in N.
The best fix is to fit the Bosch relay to the starter solenoid, to reduce the heavy current flow, through these contacts, as the Bosch 30 amp relay will handle high current flow, saving all the contacts.

Harvey.

[dcarrb]

The click-no-start-thing revisited:

The silver SVX has had occasional warm-weather-and-engine starting issues as long as I've had it, but almost always turns over after a 3-5 tries. I've replaced the ignition switch and the little under-dash relay, to no avail. Since the weather's turned warm I've been getting the click-business even with a cold engine, which is rare, and could figure on the starter not engaging on the first try maybe half the time.

Changed the battery in this car Sunday; not because the old one had died, just PM. With the battery out I decided to disconnect and clean-up and lube the ground point immediately forward the battery box. (Didn't look bad.) I also put a charger on the new battery.

Since then I've driven it to work twice, to lunch, to the bank, to the gas station. Every time it has started on the first lick. So this probably isn't news to those of you who know about such stuff, but clearly, the trouble (at least with my car) has to do with providing adequate juice for the starter to do its thing. FWIW...

dcb

[kwren]

The click-no-start-thing revisited:

Since then I've driven it to work twice, to lunch, to the bank, to the gas station. Every time it has started on the first lick. So this probably isn't news to those of you who know about such stuff, but clearly, the trouble (at least with my car) has to do with providing adequate juice for the starter to do its thing. FWIW...

dcb

Good helpful information! Thanks for passing it along.:)

Keith:cool:

[Earthworm]

I've never "fixed" mine. The "bandaid" has been working for me for over 7 years now.

[RHC]

I want to sincerely thank the folks that did all the research before me. My '92 Pearlie has had this intermittent issue for the past year; it first manifested itself last July in a little Texas town on a Sunday. Fortunately, it started after a few clicks. The 'click, click, click' became more frequent over the past year and research led me to this posting.

I found the Auto Zone relay without a hitch, although they say it's an A/C relay in their computer.

The only 'down-side' to the whole operation is my 64 year old body doesn't contort to access the under dash area like it did when I was 25.

Thanks again,
Roy in AZ

[SomethingElse]

I want to sincerely thank the folks that did all the research before me. My '92 Pearlie has had this intermittent issue for the past year; it first manifested itself last July in a little Texas town on a Sunday. Fortunately, it started after a few clicks. The 'click, click, click' became more frequent over the past year and research led me to this posting.

I found the Auto Zone relay without a hitch, although they say it's an A/C relay in their computer.

The only 'down-side' to the whole operation is my 64 year old body doesn't contort to access the under dash area like it did when I was 25.

Thanks again,
Roy in AZ

Awesome, Im glad some people still use the search feature to find this thread. :)

[gbianchi]

Mine is always caused by low battery voltage, it clicks I check, its below 12, I charge she starts, although probly one day it will not, cheers all...................G

[Earthworm]

Got the click in my project car. Didn't click before the swap. Decided to apply the band-aid fix again since it worked perfectly the last time.

[RHC]

Well... It seems as though the relay didn't fix my particular problem. I finally was able to have the 'Click, click, click' issue manifest itself when the hood was open and my trusty mechanic standing in front of the car. I appear to have a starter solenoid issue.

[oab_au]

Well... It seems as though the relay didn't fix my particular problem. I finally was able to have the 'Click, click, click' issue manifest itself when the hood was open and my trusty mechanic standing in front of the car. I appear to have a starter solenoid issue.

Ask your mechanic to fit a relay to the starter solenoid, as shown here.

http://svxworldforums.com/forum3/3422.html

Harvey.

[Hallabalogee]

So after ordering 4 starters from different venders none seeming to be the right part. Noob mistake, turns out I needed one for an 04 WRX. Got her all fixed and now my rear bearing seems to be going out.

[Hocrest]

Where do I look next after replacing the relay and the starter switch? I have a test light hooked up to the wire going to the starter, and I'm not getting anything...

If the key is turned to run, and a jump a wire from batt + to the starter, it starts right up, so it is somewhere between the key and the starter. What else is there beside the relay and the ignition switch?

[92snowmachine]

neutral safety switch

[oab_au]

Where do I look next after replacing the relay and the starter switch? I have a test light hooked up to the wire going to the starter, and I'm getting anything...WHAT NOTHING, OR SOMETHiNG.

If the key is turned to run, and a jump a wire from batt + to the starter, it starts right up, so it is somewhere between the key and the starter. What else is there beside the relay and the ignition switch?


If you are getting nothing, check the wiring at the gearbox inhibitor switch. Try it in Netural, the Park contacts may be burnt.
If you are getting something, you may be best to do the Bosch relay mod. to prevent all that current from burning up all the switches.

Have a look here for how to do it.

http://svxworldforums.com/view_post.php?post_id=35308

Harvey.

[Hocrest]

If you are getting nothing, check the wiring at the gearbox inhibitor switch. Try it in Netural, the Park contacts may be burnt.

Sorry, I either missed a word or typed the wrong word. I'm getting nothing out to the starter when I turn the key.

I was thinking earlier tonight that I want to jump the pins on the trans harness like we do for MT swaps tomorrow and see if that the issue.
Does anyone know where the shift indicator falls in the sequence between the key and the starter??

I'll also have my SVX here tomorrow, so I can pin out the wires step by step and compare.

[dannmarr]

I've never "fixed" mine. The "bandaid" has been working for me for over 7 years now.

It has been so long that I used the bypass mode (bandaid), I forgot there was a starter problem:rolleyes:

[oab_au]

Sorry, I either missed a word or typed the wrong word. I'm getting nothing out to the starter when I turn the key.

I was thinking earlier tonight that I want to jump the pins on the trans harness like we do for MT swaps tomorrow and see if that the issue.
Does anyone know where the shift indicator falls in the sequence between the key and the starter??

I'll also have my SVX here tomorrow, so I can pin out the wires step by step and compare.

"I'm getting nothing out to the starter when I turn the key.".
It is the small wire to the solenoid that has nothng?

The sequence is, the key, security relay, Inhibitor switch on the box, starter solenoid.
Don't forget to try it in N, it case the P has a problem.

Harvey.

[Hocrest]

"I'm getting nothing out to the starter when I turn the key.".
It is the small wire to the solenoid that has nothng?
Yes, the small wire has nothing when i turn the key. I've tried a trouble light and a voltage meter, nothing.

The sequence is, the key, security relay, Inhibitor switch on the box, starter solenoid.
Don't forget to try it in N, it case the P has a problem.
I've tried in P and N, and the dash indicator lights are accurate, but I think the contacts for the indicator lights are different than the contacts for the safety switch, so I'll jump it and see if that let's it crank. If so, I'll either replace the indicator switch or just jump it...

[oab_au]

If you get no voltage at all, it must have an open circuit some where.
It would not matter how dirty or bad the contacts get, it would show some voltage.
Something unplgged?

Harvey.

[Hocrest]

OK, that was a lot of wasted effort for a simple fix. The 12 pin connector from the shift indicator was together, but not tightly. So some pins were making contact, but the vital ones didn't.

Yeah well, now she has a new relay and key switch, so it should be trouble free starting for a while.

[oab_au]

Easy one Dave.:D

Harvey.

[jellybytes2]

So I'm hoping this is my problem. My SVX is sitting in a parking lot a few miles from home. Stopped there for two minutes to buy some soda. When I got back there was no start. Cigarettle lighter voltage meter read okm but tried a jump just in case. Still no good. Tried looking fo the relay but couldn't find it, made miyself too dizzy hanging upsdie down, but maybe I'll have better luck in the morning. There is a NAPA store a block away. I'm hoping they have the relay.

or.. my SVX is telling me it doesn't want to go to Pocono tomorrow

[Sean486]

Jelly,
Did you check for corrosion on the battery terminal? Mine left me stranded last year, wouldn't even stay running when jumped. After cleaning the corrosion off the terminal it started right up and ran fine.

[Chuckls]

I need to do this

[lhopp77]

Tried looking fo the relay but couldn't find it, made miyself too dizzy hanging upsdie down, but maybe I'll have better luck in the morning. There is a NAPA store a block away. I'm hoping they have the relay.

or.. my SVX is telling me it doesn't want to go to Pocono tomorrow

Located here. Secured with a single bolt that you should only have to loosen to get the relay out.

[jellybytes2]

Found the relay finally. Problem is with my blood pressure the underside of the dash looks nothing like the pictures. It's all swirly black with white spots under there. Napa/tunnesens had the relay but it was a no go. Fortunately it turned out to be th starter. With the remote start system I feared having to work through that wiring mess. Picked a starter up from auto zone let my mechanic swap it and I'm good to go... Except now the chwck engine light is on with an O2 sensor code. Mutter. As least I should be able to do the track day tomorrow.

[Hocrest]

The left o2 Sensor wiring runs down right by the starter. He possibly bumped the connector and it came undone?

[jellybytes2]

P0147 O2sensor heater circuit Bank 1 sensor 3 - which one is that?

/nm

[torxxx]

Found the relay finally. Problem is with my blood pressure the underside of the dash looks nothing like the pictures. It's all swirly black with white spots under there. Napa/tunnesens had the relay but it was a no go. Fortunately it turned out to be th starter. With the remote start system I feared having to work through that wiring mess. Picked a starter up from auto zone let my mechanic swap it and I'm good to go... Except now the chwck engine light is on with an O2 sensor code. Mutter. As least I should be able to do the track day tomorrow.

My starter has the same issue.. Too cheap to replace mine, so i just click click click click click til the sol engages lol.

I tried the relay first, and it was a no go.

[Chuckls]

so i just click click click click click til the sol engages lol.




Yep! It's semi-embarassing in public, but when people stare at me, I give them the "One sec" sign, and when it catches finally..I wink at'em and leave.

The females love it ;)

[dcarrb]

My starter has the same issue.. Too cheap to replace mine, so i just click click click click click til the sol engages lol

Be sure your battery is in good shape and fully charged, with clean and solid connections, and switch off lights and accessories, climate control, even the CD player, before you turn the key. Works for me (almost) every time.

dcb

[oab_au]

My starter has the same issue.. Too cheap to replace mine, so i just click click click click click til the sol engages lol.

I tried the relay first, and it was a no go.

Yep! It's semi-embarassing in public, but when people stare at me, I give them the "One sec" sign, and when it catches finally..I wink at'em and leave.

The females love it ;)

Be sure your battery is in good shape and fully charged, with clean and solid connections, and switch off lights and accessories, climate control, even the CD player, before you turn the key. Works for me (almost) every time.

dcb

If you have replaced the Security relay and still have the problem, then do fit the Bosch relay to the starter solenoid. Simple and affective.:)

http://svxworldforums.com/view_post.php?post_id=35308

Harvey.

[ZAKKTHERIPPER]

Quick question to anyone who might read this, would my problem be the inhibitor relay of my car has power, then when I go to start it I get nothing? Even with a brand new battery it does the same thing. Then sometimes jumping it or jiggling around with the ignition switch it will start..

[Wikedjuggalo]

Quick question to anyone who might read this, would my problem be the inhibitor relay of my car has power, then when I go to start it I get nothing? Even with a brand new battery it does the same thing. Then sometimes jumping it or jiggling around with the ignition switch it will start..

I had to do the band aid fix. Do what is suggested here and also if need be had the relay as suggested in the other fix.

[Conn SVX]

Old post still good
My car has started the intermitting no start CLICK CLICK CLICK VROOM. Seems if I charge the battery it is better for a week or so. I only drive it 2 miles between starts, so I suspect I am not adding a lot of charge into the battery. The battery gets weaker after each days run. Looked at the relay fix in the SEARCH engine. ( yes some of use that feature still) wondering since I do not have an automatic trans. Is the Bandaid fix still necessary? I will try the new Bosh relay 1st.

[dcarrb]

I recommend Harvey's Bosch relay mod. Tried replacing the ignition switch and under dash relay on my silver SVX, to no avail. The relay mod totally eliminated the problem.

dcb

[Conn SVX]

I can't find a Complete diagram of it exactly. Now mind you I no longer have an automatic so the N P is not there either. The inhibitor relay is not there either ( I don't think it is )
If I go to a Mechanic he will need exact instructions. I see the pictures but do not understand it completely. B/Y wire is original blue wire is 12v power. Black wire goes to ground and then what? What relay terminals go to what wire?
I searched for the diagram. After searchin for quite a while i found it . To help people to find it I am reposting it here

[dannmarr]

Here is a simpler diagram.

[Conn SVX]

Dotted line was missing on the 1st diagram and I had to Assume that was implied but not stated. THANK U !

[Conn SVX]

I found a relay attached to the steering column. My relay is a. IR 3315 gas 3 wires going to it. It is only held with a sheet metal screw. Could this not be it?
I believe it says Mitsubishi on it . Location is correct. What are the wire colors coming off it?

[Conn SVX]

Is this it?
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b108/JustVideo/null_zps619a20ee.jpg

[major7venth]

If the starter cut relay is suspect (and there is at least 10 other possible reasons for the click, click) foremost is the condition of the battery and connectors, starter solenoid, starter, inhibitor switch,(which doesn't fail all that much), although, if maybe so, try starting in neutral, if no problem then move on.
Remove the start cut relay and jump the '2 straight through' pins (I think 85 and 35 on the relay) with two spade connectors and a short piece of 14 gauge wire. If your security system does not work (and most of them don't) it doesn't matter anyway. This at least eliminates a potential problem component.

[dcarrb]

I found a relay attached to the steering column. My relay is a. IR 3315 gas 3 wires going to it. It is only held with a sheet metal screw. Could this not be it?
The relay mod doesn't involve the existing relay under the dash; instead, you'll be adding a supplemental relay under the hood. I would encourage anyone experiencing this problem to forget trouble-shooting and speculating. Just do the "upgrade" and see what happens.

dcb

[Conn SVX]

That did not answer my question! Is that the right relay? I will do the mod if the under dash does not improve my condition. I have only had it click click on 3 separate occasions.

[Conn SVX]

That was the wrong relay. After turning on the turn sig I found
Out that is the flasher. I have found it. Mine is way up further
See att

[major7venth]

Short story, Mount and wire up a starter relay (as pictured)
Simply, Connect the starter solenoid wire to #86 on the relay.
Connect fused 12V to #30 on the relay.
Connect from the negative battery terminal to #85 on the relay.
Connect #87 to the starter solenoid.
and that's it.
Long story. The service manual reads that the starter needs 11 volts, well why not 12V? I had 11.5 volts at the starter solenoid wire and still click click freakin click.
((special note)) *Be sure to cut off the old connector to the start solenoid and strip the wire real nice and crip on an insulated female slide connector, plug that into a male slide connector and wire that goes to the relay, so if ever one wants to go back to the factory arrangement, just disconnect from the from the male connector and connect back to the solenoid.
Be sure to also,crip down the slide connector a little so it grabs the solenoid terminal real tight.
Be sure to use at least 16 gauge wire and 12 gauge wire from (fused)12v from the battery to the relay and from the relay to the starter solenoid.
Be sure to use the proper ring terminals at the battery. A female slide terminal at the solenoid wire and use good wire crimpers with wide teeth, so you get a real good crip. Most of the wire crimpers available aren't very good, because their teeth are to narrow and don't grab the wire well enough.
I also added a hidden security switch as a theft teterant.
I see where someone had wired up a start relay, I wasn't all that thrilled with the install so, after I thought it though some, I came up with my own. Problem fixed, I hope this helps someone.

[dannmarr]

You can mount the relay near the starter. Hook up the 12v from the starter post and the ground on the firewall.

[major7venth]

Yeah, that works, tucked under the firewall real nice. I just prefer mounting where it is accessible and grounded to the battery.

[ShiuludeSVX]

I've just read all the entries since this first showed up, and finally came to the definitive picture.... http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=13182&d=1263144263

Unfortunately, it looks like this didn't make it to the "How To" area?????
I'm surprised nobody just said, "opposite the brake switch"... Oh well, it's found.

I had my engine out, and changed the location of the Ground wire, found just above the Starter, to bottom of the engine.
I had the click problem somewhat before, but it increased after putting all back together.

Today I will replace the relay, and find out if I have to look deeper.

[simboglide]

I have no factory security system, therefore I don't have a relay there?

[simboglide]

OK,,, been under the dash, no relay found, did the relay mod anyway, relay just clicks( no starting) I have the console out shift lock box is there ( totally electric, no adjustment there) small Mico switch as the base of the shifter seems to be doing it's job. I guess I'm reduced to the ignition switch??

[theflystyle]

Necro-bump.

I finally got around to replacing this relay. I ordered the Bosch 0332204150 as mentioned on the first page and went under the hood to start the process. I quickly found the only relay attached to the steering column facing the passenger side, however it looked different than what I have seen in this thread. My "original" Bosch relay was teal and had the part number 0332204161 but was still a 12v 20/30amp relay. As I had the replacement on had I went ahead and performed the switch. The car started as expected but I wanted to post my findings here in case someone else has or had run into the same predicament. Please reference the attached pictures for clarification.

[RedLionSVX]

Great info!! Thanks for this.

[depaz]

Hola a todos desde España y muchas gracias por todas las aportaciones sobre este problema que afecta a nuestros vehículos.
Después de haber leído todo lo escrito en este lugar, relacionado con el mal arranque de mi SVX Red claret versión USA, y teniendo todos los síntomas aquí descritos y habiendo comprado y colocado un motor de arranque nuevo, reparado el viejo y vuelto a colocar, me decido a comprar un relé bosch para sustituir al que está colocado.
Lo sustituyo, doy al contacto y... click, click.
Toca revisar voltajes:
Cuando falla, en el motor de arranque hay 6,4 voltios, es mucha pérdida de tensión.
El esquema eléctrico del starter es muy sencillo, con lo que me decido a sacar el nuevo relé bosch otra vez de su hubicacion, pero con el trozo de instalación pequeño que lleva.
Ahí me doy cuenta de que el conector hembra de la instalación que queda en el coche tiene los terminales faston abiertos haciendo mal contacto. Los aprieto un poco y vuelvo a istalar el relé viejo, doy al contacto de nuevo y ... voila, arranca y arranca y arranca un montón de veces sin un solo fallo.
Le copio el archivo a Theflystyle para que veáis que es lo que saque junto al relé.
El terminal que apreté fue el que acopla en el blanco.

[oab_au]

Good to see you got it fixed, yet another cause of "Click Click'.:)