alternator wires

[Gamesy]

Where do the 2 wires that attach on the screw on top of the alternator connect to?

i need to replace mine since thye are completely corroded.

thanks

[BoxerFanatic]

I am doing the alternator wiring upgrade as soon as my ordered alternator arrives.

SVXCESS wrote it up, and it is around here, readily available for a search.

But the basics are, if I am not incorrect (and please correct me now, if so), that those two white wires get cut back to a point where they aren't baked to brittleness, and capped together, and insulated.

Then new 4 or 2 gauge wiring installed from the alternator, to the battery's positive terminal, with a MegaFuse inline, near the battery.

I am probably going to replace the battery ground lead and engine ground strap, with the same gauge of wire, as well as possibly digging into the fusebox, and replacing the leads from there to the battery terminals, as well.

Then the only thing left for wiring on the SVX is to track down an intermittent short with the windshield wipers when it is raining.

[Gamesy]

good to knew since i'm looking at getting a 160A one but i need to replace the cable cause its all corroded, and looks like it runs into the fender so b4 i start taking stuff apart i wanna know what it connects too

[BoxerFanatic]

I've ordered the Maniac Motors 160amp alternator, but there seems to be some delay with the shipping.

I inquired about it, am hoping it will be cleared up soon.

[svxcess]

.
MY original alternator configuration writeup can be found HERE (http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/yhst-44365514171686/UpgradeWireSVX.pdf)


http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showpost.php?p=642209&postcount=84


You will need to add the larger power wire and the 2 larger ground wires if you are using the 160A alternator. You could just add them into the circuit with the original wires left in; the current will follow the path of least resistance and flow through the new wiring, not the old corroded wiring. But cutting them back and splicing is better


Here is the schematic. I removed the two white wires from the alternator (circled in green) cut them back and spliced them together. Add the new power cable and fuse (shown in magenta) and new grounds. This circuit maintains all the factory fusing.


http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=15643&stc=1&d=1316363980




Since one of the white wires is the charging wire from the alternator to the battery, you must add the new charging wire to take its place, if you are going to cut and splice the old ones together

[BoxerFanatic]

Thanks again, Svxcess.

Just as a clarification... two new grounds...

That is from the chassis to battery, and engine to battery, right?

Can it be accomplished by a grounding strap and a large-gauge negative battery lead, both anchored to the chassis at the horn bracket, just in front of the battery?

Or should the engine grounding strap, and chassis ground both need to terminate at the negative battery post clamp? Does it make an electrical difference?

[svxcess]

Thanks again, Svxcess.

Just as a clarification... two new grounds...

That is from the chassis to battery, and engine to battery, right?

Can it be accomplished by a grounding strap and a large-gauge negative battery lead, both anchored to the chassis at the horn bracket, just in front of the battery?

Or should the engine grounding strap, and chassis ground both need to terminate at the negative battery post clamp? Does it make an electrical difference?

Personal preference.

i prefer having the 4 gauge grounding cable going from the battery directly to the chassis (horn bracket is fine) AND the same type of cable from the negative battery to the engine (A/C bracket is fine)

Electrically, I like the high strand copper wire better than the steel grounding straps. Less resistance.


http://www.subaru-svx.net/photopost/data/620/Ground_Terminals_1.jpg

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photopost/data/620/Ground_Terminals_2.jpg

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photopost/data/620/A-C_bracket_2.jpg





.

[svxcess]

good to knew since i'm looking at getting a 160A one but i need to replace the cable cause its all corroded, and looks like it runs into the fender so b4 i start taking stuff apart i wanna know what it connects too

just cut the cables back to where you have fresh copper. they should not be corroded all the way back.


.

[svxcess]

I've ordered the Maniac Motors 160amp alternator, but there seems to be some delay with the shipping.

I inquired about it, am hoping it will be cleared up soon.

That's because they have no cores left. Many have been buying alternators and not returning their old cores for rebuilding. I have posted this problem many times. This hurts all of us.


http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showpost.php?p=657763&postcount=21

.

[Gamesy]

i'm gonna have to replace those white cables completely, they are corroded and frayed all the way.....

hopefully i'm readin that wiring diagram correctly to see that its only going to the fuse box since i see the one cable connecting to 3 others....

btw i'm sending in 2 alternator cores :D

hey SVXcess, in the writeup you connected the 2 white cables together and not attach them to the alternator?

[svxcess]

in the writeup you connected the 2 white cables together and did NOT attach them to the alternator?

Correct.

In the original wiring diagram, both wires were.connected together at the alternator. One of those wires was the charging wire to the battery. This was replaced by the new separate cable to the battery.

They are still connected.


Submitted all of this data, (modification writeup,schematic, photos, etc.) to Subaru of America quite a while ago (2009). Here is part of the reply from the Technical Analysis and Performance Division:

"The two wires that you shortened were originally joined at the alternator post, all that had to be done was to remove them from the alternator post, shorten them and connect them together. This restores the original circuitry and its inherent safety elements, but excludes the original alternator output, which now has its own dedicated, fused line to the battery."...

"...Implementing this modification is easy, safe and removes and isolates the alternator output from the rest of the electrical system. As it seems that the voltage regulator within the alternator is the weak link and is most prone to go bad, most would want to guard against it. This does exactly that."


.

[Gamesy]

Correct.

In the original wiring diagram, both wires were.connected together at the alternator. One of those wires was the charging wire to the battery. This was replaced by the new separate cable to the battery.

They are still connected.


Submitted all of this data, (modification writeup,schematic, photos, etc.) to Subaru of America quite a while ago (2009). Here is part of the reply from the Technical Analysis and Performance Division:

"The two wires that you shortened were originally joined at the alternator post, all that had to be done was to remove them from the alternator post, shorten them and connect them together. This restores the original circuitry and its inherent safety elements, but excludes the original alternator output, which now has its own dedicated, fused line to the battery."...

"...Implementing this modification is easy, safe and removes and isolates the alternator output from the rest of the electrical system. As it seems that the voltage regulator within the alternator is the weak link and is most prone to go bad, most would want to guard against it. This does exactly that."


.

interesting to know, i'm wondering how long it takes them to REMAN a new alternator once they have em

[svxcess]

Interesting to know, I'm wondering how long it takes them to REMAN a DEAD alternator to like new, once they have em?


Between 24 and 48 hours, if they have the cores.

Stock 95A units are rebuilt and waiting to go. 160A high-output units are made to order.


The only other option for Maniac is to try to buy cores from a third-party supplier, which is more costly for everyone.


I know there are a lot of dead cores out there. Just pack them up and ship them to her with a pre-paid label she will send you. Christian's phone number is 972-557-5768

[Subaru Alliance]

Very nice simple write up. I will plan on doing this mod also, but one of the weapons in my arsenal is some good ole fashioned dielectric grease.

Just curios if anyone used it with this mod, maybe it's not necessary, but my two most used every chance i get items are dielectric grease, and anti-seize.

Maybe just wishful thinking here, but I think the dielectric grease will shield the exposed connections from the elements, and hey it conducts electricity.

I always hate to see that Ole green corrosion show it's face, BTW I am sure there is some of that corrosion on or around my battery connections that could use a cleaning and a hit of grease, Ima go check. ;).


Oh yeah, a lot of people in the army use axle grease on battery terminals and it irritates the crap outta me, I tell them if it's not dielectric grease, then don't use anything on the terminals.

[svxcess]

Very nice simple write up. I will plan on doing this mod also, but one of the weapons in my arsenal is some good ole fashioned dielectric grease.

Just curious if anyone used it with this mod, maybe it's not necessary, but my two most used every chance i get items are dielectric grease, and anti-seize.

Maybe just wishful thinking here, but I think the dielectric grease will shield the exposed connections from the elements, and hey it conducts electricity.

I always hate to see that ole green corrosion show it's face, BTW I am sure there is some of that corrosion on or around my battery connections that could use a cleaning and a hit of grease, I'ma go check. ;).


Oh yeah, a lot of people in the army use axle grease on battery terminals and it irritates the crap outta me, I tell them if it's not dielectric grease, then don't use anything on the terminals.



I don't use dielectric grease. It is a non-conductive grease and does not enhance the flow of electrical current. Dielectric grease is, however, often applied to electrical connectors, particularly those containing rubber gaskets, as a means of lubricating and sealing rubber portions of the connector. If you want, spread a thin layer around the outside of your connection; do not use it on mating parts during assembly as it does not conduct electricity.

The best use of dielectric grease is in high-voltage connections associated with spark plugs. The grease is applied to the rubber boot of the plug wire. This helps the rubber boot slide onto the ceramic insulator of the plug. The grease also acts to seal the rubber boot, while at the same time preventing the rubber from becoming stuck to the ceramic portion of the plug.

Using oxygen-free copper cables, a really heavy crimp (no solder on the battery wires) and adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing keep the corrosion away.

Without any cleaning, my cables look as pristine and non-green as when installed them almost 2 years ago in the above photos. My voltmeter also tells me that my voltages haven't dropped due to corrosion resistance.

If I was really anal, I would used an electrical conductive grease on the surfaces prior to assembly On the battery cables only, but haven't found the need so far.


.

[Chuckls]

I cut those wires back to where they'll be shielded by that plastic wire holder.

Just gotta find a place round Dunedin that'll sell 4ga wire with a built in fuse.

HMMMM.

[Subaru Alliance]

nice, thanks for the info svxcess.

[svxcess]

I cut those wires back to where they'll be shielded by that plastic wire holder.

Cut them back past the plastic channel and remove the channel altogether. They get dry and brittle and fall apart due to engine heat. Just 1 wire from the alternator to the battery

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=15645&stc=1&d=1316465669

Just gotta find a place round Dunedin that'll sell 4ga wire with a built-in fuse.

Ain't gonna happen, trust me. The best cable out there is Knukonceptz Kolossus Fleks 4 Gauge (http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KFX4BK)

And the BEST fuses for high-current alternator fusing applications is the Mega Fuse by Littlefuse.

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=15646&stc=1&d=1316465839

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=15647&stc=1&d=1316466035


,

[Chuckls]

I still have the stock wiring going to the alternator plug though. Hence why it's still there..I was wrestling with that sum***** earlier. Cut my finger.

http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/zz323/chuckles2002/ae694c38.jpg
http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/zz323/chuckles2002/7972d110.jpg

[Chuckls]

Also, I'm working on a budget, as I only have 180 bucks for a front diff, oil change, and wiring.

Wiring is being done on Friday, so I can't order anything.

[svxcess]

i would definitely remove that plastic channel and trim those 2 white wires (that were originally attached to the alternator) back to the other side of the A/C compressor and join them to each other and tape them securely.

Run the remaining exposed wires to the alternator plug through some of that split-loom plastic tubing if you do nothing else. Wiring isn't in the best of shape.

You can run just the 4 gauge power cable from the alternator post to the battery and add the fuse later (as close to the battery as possible). Just be sure you have matching 4 gauge ground cables from the battery to the frame and battery to engine.

.

[Chuckls]

Edit x2: Nvm..i went back and re-read and figured it out!


Edit #3: Got my wiring ordered!! 23 bucks

Kolossus Fleks Kable 4 Gauge Black Power/Ground Wire -5ft
Gold Plated 4 Gauge Ring Terminal -Black -5
Set Screw Ring Terminals - 4 Gauge Pair

All I need are battery ends..which I assume I can pick up from Vatozone for like 6 bucks. and some Misc. wire loom

[icingdeath88]

Wait, so do the two white wires that go to the + post on the alternator get replaced or do you just add the 4 gauge cable?

[Chuckls]

Wait, so do the two white wires that go to the + post on the alternator get replaced or do you just add the 4 gauge cable?



You cut them to behind the AC condensor lines..then wrap them up. Run new wire to battery from the top post.

[svxcess]

read pages 4 & 5 of the write up HERE (http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/yhst-44365514171686/UpgradeWireSVX.pdf)

Don't over-analyze this, it's not that complicated...

I will say, in on honesty, that after I did this mod, there was a little hesitation when turning the key and starting the engine. it sounded too simple, but the wiring schematic made sense.


A lot of research, and discussions with those more knowledgable in this area, made this happen. Before this alteration, all we were doing is adding wires to "upgrade" the configuration to make up for deficiencies of our corroded aging wires.


.

[Gamesy]

do the wires still serve a purpose once off the alternator?

only reason i ask cause they are corroded all the way to the base of the fusebox. i dont wanna have to hack that wiring harness apart if i dont need too......

[svxcess]

do the wires still serve a purpose once off the alternator?

only reason i ask cause they are corroded all the way to the base of the fusebox. i dont wanna have to hack that wiring harness apart if i dont need too......

I have never seen alternator wires with the level of corrosion you describe. There must be other underlying issues.

If you do not want to disturb your harness, just ADD a 4 gauge wire to the alternator from the battery and ADD the upgraded grounds. This is the basic alternator wiring upgrade from years ago, The current will always follow the path of least resistance (the new wires) and ignore the old corroded wiring.

However, the old wiring is brittle and subject to insulation breaking off or the wires breaking altogether. Since there is battery voltage and amps involved, a short is something to be avoided. Those hot wires run dangerously close to the engine, A/C compressor, etc., and can unexpectedly fail and come in contact with ground. Removing these wires from the proximity of any engine part and isolating and insulating them is far more preferable.

That's over 800A of battery power going straight to ground.

Prevention in advance is always sound. Your fusebox will thank you.


.

[svxcess]

do the wires still serve a purpose once off the alternator?

only reason i ask cause they are corroded all the way to the base of the fusebox. I don't wanna have to hack that wiring harness apart if I don't need too......

I have never seen alternator wires with the level of corrosion you describe. There must be other underlying issues.

If you do not want to disturb your harness, just ADD a 4 gauge wire to the alternator from the battery and ADD the upgraded grounds. This is the basic alternator wiring upgrade from years ago, The current will always follow the path of least resistance (the new wires) and ignore the old corroded wiring (which is still a ticking time bomb).

However, the old wiring is brittle with age and continued exposure to heat and subject to insulation breaking off or the wires breaking altogether. Since there is battery voltage and amps involved, a short is something to be avoided at all costs. Longer wires are subject to more stress and vibration, even without the age factor.

Those "hot" wires run dangerously close to the engine, A/C compressor, etc., and can unexpectedly fail and come in contact with ground. Removing these wires from the proximity of any engine part and isolating and insulating them is far more preferable.

That's over 800A of battery power going straight to ground.

Prevention in advance is always sound. Your fuse box will thank you.

.




.

[Gamesy]

I have never seen alternator wires with the level of corrosion you describe. There must be other underlying issues.

If you do not want to disturb your harness, just ADD a 4 gauge wire to the alternator from the battery and ADD the upgraded grounds. This is the basic alternator wiring upgrade from years ago, The current will always follow the path of least resistance (the new wires) and ignore the old corroded wiring (which is still a ticking time bomb).

However, the old wiring is brittle with age and continued exposure to heat and subject to insulation breaking off or the wires breaking altogether. Since there is battery voltage and amps involved, a short is something to be avoided at all costs. Longer wires are subject to more stress and vibration, even without the age factor.

Those "hot" wires run dangerously close to the engine, A/C compressor, etc., and can unexpectedly fail and come in contact with ground. Removing these wires from the proximity of any engine part and isolating and insulating them is far more preferable.

That's over 800A of battery power going straight to ground.

Prevention in advance is always sound. Your fuse box will thank you.

.




.

well they were corroded at the terminals and i followed it to where it connecte to 2 other white wires and wheni took the electrical tape off it was all greenish.

i cut the cable and stripped the jacket off and a good 4inches were black and brittle.

i do plan on doing the 4g wire mod since i'm already upgrading the alternator.
i'm just wondering if i just clean whatevers exposed then just tape it up and seal it and it has nothing to do with the system?

[svxcess]

well they were corroded at the terminals and i followed it to where it connecte to 2 other white wires and wheni took the electrical tape off it was all greenish.

i cut the cable and stripped the jacket off and a good 4inches were black and brittle.

i do plan on doing the 4g wire mod since i'm already upgrading the alternator.
i'm just wondering if i just clean whatevers exposed then just tape it up and seal it and it has nothing to do with the system?

As I said, just cut back the two wires as far as you can (I believe I cut back about 18" from the alternator connection) This is before they connect to a larger bundle of 2-3 wires.

Clean up the oxidized surface of each wire with emery cloth or a wire brush, twist them tightly together or crimp them. Use heat shrink tubing and some of the rubber self-fusing tape to seal them and leave them be. They have to be joined together for the circuits to stay in place; DO NOT just remove both wires and tape them separately .


As part of my "Aternator 101" (in the How-to Documents) I say:


"When our wires were new, uncorroded and in peak condition, all terminals were securely attached and all grounds were clean and shiny with good contact points, things may have been adequate. But internal resistance due to heat, corrosion and age of materials have taken their toll and decreased the amount of current they were originally designed to carry. Back then, without high-power stereos and other accessories, 95A may have been adequate..."


Resistance in the power cable will result in a power (amperage) loss. So the larger the cable, within reason, the less the resistance.

If you don't think this is true, try jump-starting a car with a set of cheap 14 gauge jumper cables. With the thinner wires, internal resistance to current flow cause them to heat up more quickly-- and that is where your current is lost. A heavier set of wires won't have the same resistance and will heat up much more slowly, allowing maximum current transfer to the other car.'

Corrosion or wrong wire size = resistance = heat=power loss.



If you haven't read over ALTERNATOR 101, you can find it HERE (http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=53927) Good charts and stats and questions that are usually raised



There is not much more that a can comment on in this thread. Photos and explanations are as clear as I can make them in the NEW ALTERNATOR WIRING CONFIGURATION v.4 (http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=539)

It will make sense when you do it, Just take time and care to do it correctly and don't cut corners and you will be fine.

.

[Chuckls]

I read it before and was like :bash::confused::confused::confused::confused:

After you explaining it..It's so much more understandable

[svxcess]

.


TWO MORE HELPFUL TIPS

CRIMP your ring terminals solidly, do not solder. You can have your local battery shop use their hydraulic crimper to put the ring terminals on your cables for next to nothing. I have a hydraulic battery terminal crimper which makes for an extremely solid connection as it crimps evenly around the entire circumference. Pliers and hammers just don't work, as they just flatten and distort the connection.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31CYO2sMAqL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
Harbor Freight



Electrical current flows around the outside of each wire, not through it. Soldering the ring terminals to the power turn all those individual strands into one big wire with less total surface area than the 2068 of smaller strands. It also makes it less flexible and more rigid at the connection, which is undesirable



You also may have to file down the outside of the ring terminal that attaches to the alternator so that it is smaller and fits completely down inside the black plastic ring on the power terminal and tightens securely to the post and bottom. Don't let it sit on top. A lock washer and nut will work. Just tighten very securely, not overtighten. Excessive Force will break the alternator charging post. Use a small 1/4" drive socket to avoid this.


Top off the alternator connection with a new rubber cap to protect it ...1034AA000 ...$5.93
021806000 ...Nut ...$0.28
032006000 ...Spring Washer ... $0.10


Remember to slide the cap onto the end of the bare cable BEFORE you strip the wire and crimp on the ring terminal. Once attached and tightened, just slide up the rubber cap over the alternator post.


http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=15648&stc=1&d=1316504550










http://images4.cpcache.com/product_zoom/384781114v0_480x480_Front_padToSquare-true.jpg





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[Gamesy]

lol nice ending,
where do you get these labeled diagrams? i dont see anything like it in the downloadable manual

[svxcess]

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/svxcess/5416.jpg

July 2001. My 1992 pearlie with the original wiring upgrade.



http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/svxcess/37198.jpg

June 2006. All original wires were covered with split-loom. The red wire was the additional upgraded 4 gauge wire from alternator to battery, as well as the added grounds. Basically unchanged from the original



http://www.subaru-svx.net/photopost/data/620/Overview_1.jpg

Current configuration. The only difference from this photo is the substitution of the new Mega Fuse, in place of the AGU fuse holder pictured. These do not work well in high-current applications under the hood.

The solder on metal ends of the AGU glass fuses (soldered to the fuse) would melt and break the circuit. Enclosed inside the waterproof holder, heat would build up and intensify the problem. They may be fine in stereo installs, with a lot of air circulation, but not in the confines of a high-temperature environment. All it takes is one spike in current to blow them; the MegaFuse is a slo-blow design which handles this with ease. Have never had one of these fail.



.

[BoxerFanatic]

That's because they have no cores left. Many have been buying alternators and not returning their old cores for rebuilding. I have posted this problem many times. This hurts all of us.


http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showpost.php?p=657763&postcount=21

.

I've got a core, and absolutely counted on sending it in with the RMA to be included. I wouldn't even mind sending it first. The car is grounded anyway, with a flat, as well as not being able to run more than a few minutes without draining the battery as flat as the tire.

I am not sure what turn-around time they usually have, but I'd wait a reasonable amount of time.

I think it is a bit odd that they charged my Paypal, and booked UPS, but not a peep from them about the backlog, even over the last two business days since I sent a message.


But I just received my new Continental ExtremeContact DWS tires this afternoon, and would like to have the SVX back in 'fighting shape' by the end of the month, which is why I started placing orders at the beginning of the month.

Because then the Legacy has to go down, and get it's new dampers and bushings installed. (which I am also thinking of tackling myself, too...) I have been putting off maintenance a bit due to money, and it all has to get done before winter.

Thanks again, for all the helpful information. I also took your recommendation on the littelfuse MegaFuse, and just got the 175-amp fuse today, and the fuse holder and large-gauge crimper came late last week.

I hope your modification is going well, too Gamesy. I completely understand about the budgetary concerns.

[Gamesy]

I've got a core, and absolutely counted on sending it in with the RMA to be included. I wouldn't even mind sending it first. The car is grounded anyway, with a flat, as well as not being able to run more than a few minutes without draining the battery as flat as the tire.

I am not sure what turn-around time they usually have, but I'd wait a reasonable amount of time.

I think it is a bit odd that they charged my Paypal, and booked UPS, but not a peep from them about the backlog, even over the last two business days since I sent a message.


But I just received my new Continental ExtremeContact DWS tires this afternoon, and would like to have the SVX back in 'fighting shape' by the end of the month, which is why I started placing orders at the beginning of the month.

Because then the Legacy has to go down, and get it's new dampers and bushings installed. (which I am also thinking of tackling myself, too...) I have been putting off maintenance a bit due to money, and it all has to get done before winter.

Thanks again, for all the helpful information. I also took your recommendation on the littelfuse MegaFuse, and just got the 175-amp fuse today, and the fuse holder and large-gauge crimper came late last week.

I hope your modification is going well, too Gamesy. I completely understand about the budgetary concerns.

Thanks man, turns out its cheaper to get a local shop to upgrade the alternator, only reason being is i have to pay to ship it to texas which will run me like $60 so to save time and money i'm just getting a local shop to do it.

Since i have another core does anyone want a reman or upgraded alternator?

[Chuckls]

I hope my H/O is still good :(

http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/zz323/chuckles2002/9b16fc6c.jpg

[Gamesy]

is that melted?

[Chuckls]

Yep. It appeared to have messed up my front diff as well?

[BoxerFanatic]

Alternator is on it's way... looking forward to getting this done, and the SVX back on the road with fresh new tires, and a good new high-power alternator.

[Conn SVX]

The alternator messed up your front end diff?????:confused:

[Chuckls]

The alternator messed up your front end diff?????:confused:

Idk how, but as soon as my wiring started smoking, 10seconds later I get Clunk Clunk CLunk when I try to gas it.

[Gamesy]

unless it melted the speed sensor into the housing i dont know how it could affect the front diff, center diff ya but front?

[Chuckls]

Nate'll be here tomorrow, so he can for sure tell me what the damage is.

[Gamesy]

UPDATE:

just pulled out all the wires and connecting wires to the alternator.... all of it was corroded right up to the fuse box lol

[Chuckls]

Alternator is shot :angst:

[BoxerFanatic]

Ok.

I thought I was more ready for this than I ended up being.

First, I thought auto-parts stores would have more selection of power-grade cabling than they do.

Q: Is 4 AWG wire acceptable, or too small for the alternator wiring mod? 2 AWG wire seems like overkill but maybe i am wrong.

I think I figured out why Subaru used two smaller wires. I have yet to see a ring terminal that is small enough to fit on the Alternator post riser, but big enough on the wire side to crimp anywhere near a 2 or 4 gauge wire.

Q: How on earth to you connect said large gauge replacement wire to the alternator post appropriately?

Stock is two smaller wires, with ring terminals flat-sides inward, both connected to the post. Should I try to split the strands into two groups, and crimp two rings onto a single larger cable? I am not sure that is even pragmatically possible or advisable, but I am open to suggestions from people who have done it.


Q: for Svxcess, or others who have mounted the Mega-Fuse holder, where and more importantly how, did you fasten it down, and did you insulate the bottom, so that the bolt heads that are recessed, but exposed on the bottom side. I wouldn't want them to arc to anything else. I thought about filling the underside segments with epoxy as an electrical insulator.

I was thinking of double-face tape, and sticking it to the side of the main fuse box, below the cover's overlap, on the side toward the battery and front end of the car. It doesn't seem like there is much space for nylon bolts, or push fasteners on the inside of the fuse box, to drill through, and fasten the Mega-Fuse holder to the side with mechanical fasteners.

I am open to hear what others have done to mount the fuse holder.

Q: Does anybody know the gauge of the wires from the starter to the battery? It looks like the positive lead is much thicker, with an overly long metal tab with a hole as a ring terminal at the end. Possibly 4 or maybe even 2 gauge, but the negative seems to be about 6 gauge, with a much smaller 8 or 10 gauge wire to the body ground point, next to the horn bracket, but not actually on it, with a pretty small bolt, comparatively.

I am debating whether the positive battery terminal is worth keeping, or if i should change it out for a bigger/better one.

The MegaFuse holder doesn't look big enough to accommodate two 4 gauge wires on the battery side of the fuse, so I think the two wires, one from batt to starter (existing), one from batt to Mega Fuse->Alternator (new wire) probably will both have to connect to the battery terminal directly.

I think the negative side might have to work that way, also, to ground both the starter, and another ground closer to the alternator/AC pump, as well as to the chassis, unless I do some sort of ground-side distribution block.

I see now why Svxcess ordered his wiring online. I overestimated the availability of the wiring supplies locally, and under-estimated the price tag of all of these individual little wire-building supplies, each with a retail markup.

It is a good thing I ordered that large-gauge impact crimper along with the MegaFuse and holder, to get over the price point for free shipping from Amazon. I have a feeling it is going to come in very handy.

[Gamesy]

I had to order the fuse from my local NAPA store

after reading your message i just double checked/compared with some wire i bought

Stock starter and battery ground are 4AWG wires.

So my setup is comprises of 4awg wire to starter, 4 awg wire from new alternator to + batt, 4 awg wire bodyground, 4 awg wire engine ground.

as for the existing white cables coming off the alternator, i still need to find out whether they are 8 or 10g, i'm thinking they are 8 but i'm gonna double check b4 buying


Ok.

I thought I was more ready for this than I ended up being.

First, I thought auto-parts stores would have more selection of power-grade cabling than they do.

Q: Is 4 AWG wire acceptable, or too small for the alternator wiring mod? 2 AWG wire seems like overkill but maybe i am wrong.

I think I figured out why Subaru used two smaller wires. I have yet to see a ring terminal that is small enough to fit on the Alternator post riser, but big enough on the wire side to crimp anywhere near a 2 or 4 gauge wire.

Q: How on earth to you connect said large gauge replacement wire to the alternator post appropriately?

Stock is two smaller wires, with ring terminals flat-sides inward, both connected to the post. Should I try to split the strands into two groups, and crimp two rings onto a single larger cable? I am not sure that is even pragmatically possible or advisable, but I am open to suggestions from people who have done it.


Q: for Svxcess, or others who have mounted the Mega-Fuse holder, where and more importantly how, did you fasten it down, and did you insulate the bottom, so that the bolt heads that are recessed, but exposed on the bottom side. I wouldn't want them to arc to anything else. I thought about filling the underside segments with epoxy as an electrical insulator.

I was thinking of double-face tape, and sticking it to the side of the main fuse box, below the cover's overlap, on the side toward the battery and front end of the car. It doesn't seem like there is much space for nylon bolts, or push fasteners on the inside of the fuse box, to drill through, and fasten the Mega-Fuse holder to the side with mechanical fasteners.

I am open to hear what others have done to mount the fuse holder.

Q: Does anybody know the gauge of the wires from the starter to the battery? It looks like the positive lead is much thicker, with an overly long metal tab with a hole as a ring terminal at the end. Possibly 4 or maybe even 2 gauge, but the negative seems to be about 6 gauge, with a much smaller 8 or 10 gauge wire to the body ground point, next to the horn bracket, but not actually on it, with a pretty small bolt, comparatively.

I am debating whether the positive battery terminal is worth keeping, or if i should change it out for a bigger/better one.

The MegaFuse holder doesn't look big enough to accommodate two 4 gauge wires on the battery side of the fuse, so I think the two wires, one from batt to starter (existing), one from batt to Mega Fuse->Alternator (new wire) probably will both have to connect to the battery terminal directly.

I think the negative side might have to work that way, also, to ground both the starter, and another ground closer to the alternator/AC pump, as well as to the chassis, unless I do some sort of ground-side distribution block.

I see now why Svxcess ordered his wiring online. I overestimated the availability of the wiring supplies locally, and under-estimated the price tag of all of these individual little wire-building supplies, each with a retail markup.

It is a good thing I ordered that large-gauge impact crimper along with the MegaFuse and holder, to get over the price point for free shipping from Amazon. I have a feeling it is going to come in very handy.

[svxcess]

I had to order the fuse from my local NAPA store

After reading your message i just double checked/compared with some wire i bought

Stock starter and battery ground are 4AWG wires.

So my setup is comprises of 4awg wire to starter, 4 awg wire from new alternator to + batt, 4 awg wire body/ground, 4 awg wire engine ground.

All of these wires are correct. Why are you replacing the 4 gauge wire to the starter? Do you have starting problems? This mod is designed to have the electrical system operate efficiently AFTER the car is running. The starter circuit is not affected and unless you have another problem, you do not need to change the wire to the starter. Just check the connection.

As for the existing white cables coming off the alternator, i still need to find out whether they are 8 or 10g I'm thinking they are 8 but i'm gonna double check b4 buying

Why are you replacing the two existing white wires? Just trim them back as far as you can before they splice into a larger bundle and twist them together and insulate. Not attached to anything else but each other,

Go back and re-read the wiring configuration. They are no longer necessary to be connected to the alternator.

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=13778&d=1270948752

[svxcess]

BoxerFanatic.

You have PM.

[BoxerFanatic]

Thanks for the PM, I sent a reply. Sorry, it is pretty lengthy.

I think I was over-thinking the project a little bit, and I keep coming back to your plan. It is a well developed plan, and it makes even more sense when elbow-deep in the engine bay, than just reading it here on the screen.

The two things not immediately clear, are how to connect a 4 AWG wire to the alternator's small terminal... most 4 AWG terminals are bigger than that, and as you mentioned, won't fully seat inside the collar around the terminal.

And how you chose to fix your fuse holder to the side of the main fuse box enclosure. That position is as ideal as it gets in that neighborhood... but how it stays there, in your case, isn't as abundantly clear.


And thanks, Gamesy, for the info on the stock wires. I thought the starter leads looked different sizes, but I am glad to know that the actual conductors are the same gauge, and to know that they are both 4 AWG. I am only considering re-terminating the stock wires at their battery ends, because they are looking a little worse for wear and a bit frayed there, but they do work as is. Not fixing what isn't broken is something I am trying to keep in mind.

[Gamesy]

Why are you replacing the two existing white wires? Just trim them back as far as you can before they splice into a larger bundle and twist them together and insulate. Not attached to anything else but each other,

Go back and re-read the wiring configuration. They are no longer necessary to be connected to the alternator.

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=13778&d=1270948752

I'm not replacing the starter wire, i was just outlining for boxer what the system is gonna look like i'm only replacing the engine ground ( corroded) body ground(upgrade) and alternator post(upgrade)

as for the existing cables from the alternator, they are completely corroded/burnt right to the fusebox so i need to redo the wiring. it splits off and connects to the ABS fuse, FAN LH and RH fuse and weirdly enough it connects to the other alternator wire thats connected to the plug.

as for mounting i still dont know yet, i'll be getting it tuesday.
when i'm there i'm gonna see if they have a 4awg to small ring terminal if not, cut a section off it make it smaller and resolder.

another option is to sandwitch it between 2 washers on the post

[svxcess]

RING TERMINAL:

You will have to file down the outside of the 4 gauge ring terminal that attaches to the alternator so that it is smaller in diameter and fits completely down inside the black plastic collar on the power terminal and tightens securely to the post and bottom. Don't let it sit on top of the collar. It should fit in there loosely to allow for expansion when hot.

Use a file or a Dremel with a grinding wheel

A lock washer and nut will work. Just tighten very securely, not overtighten. Excessive Force will break the alternator charging post. Use a small 1/4" drive socket to avoid this.

The cable portion of the ring terminal will sit into the slot in the collar. This will prevent the cable from rotating when tightening


The MEGAFUSE BRACKET

I should have done a writeup with photos of what I did to address this. Basically it is attached to an aluminum plate that is folded over and just hangs on the edge of the fuse box. See photo 3.


Here are some photos. Look closely and you will notice in the photos that the fuse holder of mounted to some sort of metal plate (using pop-rivets)

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=15674&stc=1&d=1316966309

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=15675&stc=1&d=1316967889

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=15676&stc=1&d=1316967889

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=15677&stc=1&d=1316967889



http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=15728&stc=1&d=1318343752



I cut a thin piece of aluminum plate as wide as the widest part of the fuse holder. I then took off the fuse box cover and measured the distance from the top of may battery to the top edge of the fuse box.

Looking inside the fusebox there is a thin gap at the front of the box. I measured how deep this gap was. I transferred these measurements to the aluminum plate. The plate is bent over 180° so that it just slides over the edge of the fusebox and hangs snugly. Snap the fuse box cover back on and make a line on the plate where the bottom of the cover is..

Remove the plate and mark the position of the fuse holder (with the cover on) Make sure it does nor rise above the line you marked on the bracket. Mark the 2 holes for the mounting points and drill.

I used pop-rivets to mount the holder to the bracket. I inserted the rivets from the REAR of the bracket (so that the head was flush and did not interfere with anything.

Do the test-fitting of the bracket to make sure everything is fine. Inside the gap in the front of the fusebox there is a thin vertical rib of plastic that will keep the bracket from sliding down completely. Just cut a small notch on the bracket to slide over this. This will also act as a key and keep the bracket from sliding side-to-side when the fuse box cover is attached.


This is a secure fit. The fusebox cover clips on and prevents the bracket from moving. The bottom of my fuse holder just rests on the top of my Optima battery.


This is the general instructions for the procedure. Hope it helps. I may go out and take more detailed photos, but don't think it is necessary

[BoxerFanatic]

Thanks, that makes it much more clear on the mounting.

I guess I may have to find someplace to source some aluminum, and a way to bend it.

Good to know about filing down the alternator terminal. I was a bit worried about the inside diameter of the ring being too big to properly cinch down, but it seems like you have it buttoned up. I trust you that it works. :D

[svxcess]

Thanks, that makes it much more clear on the mounting.

I guess I may have to find someplace to source some aluminum, and a way to bend it.

You can get thin aluminum stock, 6" x 12" or so from Ace Hardware or another hardware store. it is very flexible and you could almost bend it by hand, but you wouldn't get a tight bend. Mark the line where you want to bend and put it in a vise and tap with a hammer along the line to get almost a 90 degree bend, than squeeze it the rest of the way by hand or with a small block of wood and a hammer.

i used 6" sheet metal pliers to do the job.

Good to know about filing down the alternator terminal. I was a bit worried about the OUTSIDE diameter of the ring being too big to properly cinch down, but it seems like you have it buttoned up. I trust you that it works. :D


Trust me, it works. :)

Even if you were just adding a power wire to the alternator (leaving the 2 white wires attached) you would need to file down the terminal so that there was a solid connection between all of the wires.

I have seen instances where the new power power wire was used with stock 4 gauge terminals and would not fit inside the collar. Just tightened down on top of the collar. this causes arcing and corrosion.


.

[svxcess]

I went out and measured my cables this morning. Here are the lengths I used and are the ones shown in the photos and routed the same way.

1: Alternator to mega-fuse: 23 inches.
2: mega-fuse to positive battery: 8 inches.
3: Engine bolt to negative battery: 16 inches. (I used the A/C compressor mounting bolt.

4: Chassis ground to negative battery: 11 inches. (I used the horn bracket bolt)

I still prefer the Knukonceptz Fleks Kable. 4 gauge in outside diameter, but electrically comparable to a three gauge. Plus it is the most flexible cable I have ever found.

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photopost/data/620/StreetWires_vs_Knukonceptz.jpg

That's how I can get such a tight radius turn on the cable from the battery to the MegaFuse. You need ony 5 feet of wire at 1.55 per foot for everything. Initially I ordered 6 feet just in case.

Available in matte transluscent smoke (what I used), jet black, red or blue.

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaster.cfm?category=Kolossus%20Fleks%20Kabl e
.

[Gamesy]

i'm using Welding wire, strong flexible and all copper

SVXcess, can you double check the gauge of the old alternator cables thats spliced together? i'm thinking its an 8gauge but i'm starting to double guess myself

thanks

[svxcess]

i'm using Welding wire, strong flexible and all copper

svxcess, can you double check the gauge of the old alternator cables thats spliced together? i'm thinking its an 8 gauge but i'm starting to double-guess myself.

thanks

I have no idea as my old cables are long gone. I believe they were either 8 or 10 gauge. 8 gauge would offer less resistance, but in such a short run, it would probably be minor. Maybe someone here can confirm.

Hard to believe that the original alternator charging wire was that small.


.

[Gamesy]

I have no idea as my old cables are long gone. I believe they were either 8 or 10 gauge. 8 gauge would offer less resistance, but in such a short run, it would probably be minor. Maybe someone here can confirm.

Hard to believe that the original alternator charging wire was that small.


.

I know 95a charge off that tiny cable

[svxcess]

In the real world, the alternator probably puts out, depending on how many circuits were engaged, from around 40A to 60A maximum.

Read my testing procedure and test results HERE (http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=15685&stc=1&d=1317002425)

I believe this is fairly accurate.

.

[BoxerFanatic]

Anybody know a good source for an insulator cap for the back side of the alternator terminal riser? the flat plastic one, not the domed rubber cap on the top.

My new one didn't come with a cap (and I did go through all of the packing material) and the one on my old alternator didn't fit without being forced, and it was already cracked from heat brittling.

I am headed back to the auto parts store tomorrow, but I somehow doubt they'll have one, but maybe.

Mitsubishi Alternator, and the riser has the letter B embossed on it. I thought about getting another riser, but the new alternator won't let go of it easily. :D

[svxcess]

Call Christian at Maniac Electric Motors and tell her what you need. She keeps these parts on hand for her rebuilds.

972-557-5768

Tell her John Hoffman suggested you call.



http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=15686&stc=1&d=1317007064


,

[svxcess]

.

How time flies.

Here is a photo of me doing my third original alternator wiring upgrade of the evening at Lafayette. Lots of help and flashlights.


http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=15687&stc=1&d=1317010032

Looking at the camera is a bleary-eyed "Zeppelin". Don't recall the other person.

All the old farts were in bed long ago...

.

[svxfiles]

.

How time flies.

Here is a photo of me doing my third original alternator wiring upgrade of the evening at Lafayette. Lots of help and flashlights.


http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=15687&stc=1&d=1317010032

Looking at the camera is a bleary-eyed "Zeppelin". Don't recall the other person.

All the old farts were in bed long ago...


.

Zeppelin; "Dude, This is not your car!"
John;"I like soup!"

John Hoffman;Date of Birth:
August 11th, 1844
Age:
167

[BoxerFanatic]

Call Christian at Maniac Electric Motors and tell her what you need. She keeps these parts on hand for her rebuilds.


That is the part.

I may give them a call, I have been in e-mail communications about the shipment, before it arrived, since that is who my new alternator is from, and I am slightly surprised that it arrived without that cover. Don't want it arcing from that post to the aluminum intake manifold directly behind it.

I have boxed up the old alternator to ship back there tomorrow, as well, for the next person's rebuild.

[svxcess]

.

Play nice or else... the poster child for Reading is watching...




http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=15691&stc=1&d=1317020159


.

[Gamesy]

white cables are 10AWG damn thats tiny

[svxcess]

white cables are 10AWG damn thats tiny

That's what I thought. Brand new 10 gauge wires, with no corrosion, shiny terminals and solid, clean connections, may have done the job... TWENTY YEARS AGO!

Years of deterioration, corrosion, andengine heat have taken their toll on its ability to pass current easily and remain physically and electrically intact.

Thats why the original 4 gauge alternator wiring mod, introduced almost 10 years ago, was so effective.


Why do you think it is so easy to jump-start a car with 4 gauge jumper cables? I remember someone with 14-16 gauge cables. Almost worthless -- passed very little current and they .got very hot.


I would suspect our coil pack wires suffer from some of these problems also.


.

[Gamesy]

could be, only downside is i have to reuse the connectors from the fuse box, no shop carries them in stock

by the looks of it, i think the wires have been replaced b4 there's just a lot of weird connecting and splicing which in the end all the cables still connect together

[BoxerFanatic]

Finally got the connectors, and the 4AWG 'welding' copper stranded cable, and almost all of the supplies.

Still waiting for the terminal cap, which should be arriving from Maniac soon, and I have to pick up some shrink wrap tubes and retainer loops tomorrow to build the cables.

I think I found another way to mount the fuse holder, as well.

SVXCESS's pictures show that he has a nice optima battery, but no battery tray around it. My car still has the battery tray.

there is a flat area on the engine-facing side of the battery tray, that has enough clearance from the valve cover of the engine. I noticed that a nylon license-plate bolt fits the holder perfectly, and has a flat head for the battery side of the tray. I am thinking that two bolt holes in the battery tray side, and the fuse holder mounts directly to it. And the whole thing can come out of the engine bay, if needed, by taking the battery out as well. The plastic of the battery tray, and the nylon mounting bolts will minimize any possible arc points, as well as insulating the back side of the fuse-holder metal terminal bolts.

Looking forward to completing this project, and having the SVX back on the road. Should have it's new Continental tires mounted early next week as well. Gotta get that thing back up and reliable, because it has to give it's garage space to the Legacy for suspension refitting, and be my daily transport instead.

[svxcess]

I am not sure I like you approach, using the side of the battery tray as a mounting surface.

One of my many considerations for mounting the fuse was in having to change the fuse in less than ideal conditions. In my setup, if the fuse ever needed changing, all I needed to do is pop off the fuse cover and loosen the nuts with a small box-end wrench. In fact the wrench I keep for this purpose is covered in heat shrink tubing , except for the very end. This eliminates the possibility of having any part of the wrench touch any metal ground while installing a new fuse. Even at night everything is easy to see.

I have even lifted the entire fuse holder off of the fuse box and held in in my left hand, while using a socket to remove the fuse.This totally reduces the arcing possibility.


In your configuration, I worry about the ease of changing a fuse when the wrench could accidentally touch any metal (frame, body, valve cover, etc) Working sideways, without a direct line of sight.

If you are mounting it high enough on the battery tray for good access and visibility, and the clearances for your wrench movements are sufficient, that may be different.



/

[Gamesy]

i finished up my wiring today and god it was a pain trying to wire 5 10awg wires together lol

SVXcess i tried your idea of mounting off the fuse box but the size of my battery causes an issue, it will interfere with taking the battery in and out. so i'm thinking to mount it on the fender wall between the battery and the fender and is still accessible

[Chuckls]

Did mine as well. Car didn't like it at first.

[svxcess]

i finished up my wiring today and god it was a pain trying to wire 5 10awg wires together lol

svxcess, I tried your idea of mounting off the fuse box but the size of my battery causes an issue, it will interfere with taking the battery in and out. so I'm thinking to mount it on the fender wall between the battery and the fender and is still accessible

Why would it interfere with removing the battery? Were you trying to permanently mount it or use the bracket which just slipped over the edge?

Just disconnect the power wire from the POS battery terminal (Leaving it attached to the MegaFuse holder) and lift off the fuse holder from the fuse box and move it out of the way.

Since the engine is off, there is no current going from the alternator to worry about. You have to remove both battery terminals anyway to remove the battery.

I have done this a few times.

.

[svxcess]

Did mine as well. Car didn't like it at first.

What made it change its mind? :confused:

Please give more details.


.

[Chuckls]

Well, my battery was dead. So I jumped it. At first the alternator didn't wanna charge and was like "EH..fook off." then after I kept revving it to get it going, it was like "Ok Ok..I see the new wires" and is charging fine.

[icingdeath88]

Yes, most likely the battery being displeased with a couple months of no use. If I were you I would have swapped back and forth with the battery in another car every week or so to keep it strong. Actually I did exactly that when my blue car was down for the engine swap. Florida is not very kind to batteries.

[svxcess]

Glad to hear it is working fine.

I have only started and driven my car once since I got back from Reading.

I always keep the battery connected to the Battery Tender when not in use. One of the best investments I ever made; just unplug and go with no surprises.


.

[Chuckls]

I ended up messing up and not using the KnuKonceptz power terminals or w/e..so I could only do one ground. Gotta order some more ring terminals and I can get it set.


SVXcess, how did you use the bolt for that engine ground? it's WAY too big to fit the ring terminal around.

[Gamesy]

eveything cleaned up and running, good thing i bought 2 fuses, 1 was a dud,
and SVXcess i have plenty of room to change the fuse without having to take out the battery, nor did i have to drill any holes, i used the old mounting points for the 4EAT resistor.

[icingdeath88]

Where's a good place to source the mega fuse holder and fuses?

[Chuckls]

http://www.littelfuse.com/searchresults.html?NttP=Megafuse&Ntt=Megafuse

[icingdeath88]

Thank you, sir :)

[Chuckls]

No problem fine gentleman. Happy to be of assistance.

[92 SVX]

ok how do you order the fuse? I looked over that link and I did not find a way to order one.

[svxcess]

Available at All Battery Sales and Service


Mega Fuse Holder (http://www.allbatterysalesandservice.com/browse.cfm/4,2931.html)
Mega Fuses (http://www.allbatterysalesandservice.com/browse.cfm/2,958.html)


.

[92 SVX]

thank you, that is exactly what I was looking for.

I ordered the wiring, and ring terminals I got 6 feet of 4gauge, I figure if 5 is enough I will have an extra foot for other projects. I really like the pricing they have.

[svxcess]

everything cleaned up and running, good thing I bought 2 fuses, 1 was a dud.

and svxcess i have plenty of room to change the fuse without having to take out the battery, nor did I have to drill any holes, I used the old mounting points for the 4EAT resistor.

Take photos please.

.

[icingdeath88]

The mega fuses/holders are available at amazon.com. I ordered stuff to do my alternator wiring/battery relocation to trunk mod in a few weeks.

[Chuckls]

Ok so...I'm sort of afraid..the wire loom I used is NOT heat resistant :(

and..it looks like my charging post is starting to look like my old one..but I figured that would be caused by my loose terminal..hopefully

[svxcess]

The mega fuses/holders are available at amazon.com. I ordered stuff to do my alternator wiring/battery relocation to trunk mod in a few weeks.

I'm too impatient to wait that long...


http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=15709&stc=1&d=1317622044


.

[Gamesy]

call your local auto parts supplier and see if they can order it, thats what i did, took 2 days and order an extra fuse in case a)one's a dud b) you blow it on the road

[icingdeath88]

Yes, hence the "few weeks" till I'll be doing mine. But I'm not exactly in a hurry, got plenty of other projects going on. Anyway, I meant that more for future reference than right now.

[Uncamitzi]

More than a little frustrated..

Followed the instructions for the wire upgrade..... buttoned it up... and I get :
Battery light, Steering, ABS, Stoplamp.... sigh.... I think I screwed up a splice......

Voltage to the battery is good.... all the fuses have power... I'm stumped

[Hocrest]

Check the small wires going to the plug on the alt.

[Uncamitzi]

Check the small wires going to the plug on the alt.

The plug is brittle and one of the wires that I spliced did come lose... but I have to be off to work... I'll check it tomorrow... also...anyone know if there are replacement plugs for the alternator?

[Gamesy]

Check the small wires going to the plug on the alt.

what are those wires in the plug for?

[svxcess]

The plug is brittle and one of the wires that I spliced did come lose... but I have to be off to work... I'll check it tomorrow... also...anyone know if there are replacement plugs for the alternator?


My original source used to be Northwest Regulator Supply. They only deal with manufacturers now.

But you can buy them directly from their distributor Electric Motor Service in Logan, WV. Their phone number is 800- 697-6070

The part number is 050-012252 and they go for $9.53 each plus shipping with no minimum. I already ordered two more.



.

[svxcess]

what are those wires in the plug for?



On the plastic connector, one wire is the field sense wire, that energizes the alternator when the ignition is on. Also monitors battery voltage and uses the regulator to supply additional voltage on demand

The other wire goes to the idiot light on the dash, turning it off when the alternator is charging.


If you are replacing the plug, make sure to keep the wires from getting switched around. Remove only one wire at a time and reconnect to the new plug to avoid confusion..


The original OEM plug has two wires of different thicknesses, the replacement plug has both wires the same size. Mark them however you want when changing them.

.


.

[svx1999]

no but it's mine and I'm pictured.. terrible side shot. I have since took off the upgrade, since it blew an alternator or it's the only explanation. well perhaps a bad one from the shop. I left the negative ground in place.. now It's time to GET another alternator.. I still have my OEM core.. Yes I want it for a rebuild. got the other from Napa lifetime replacement and I think it's an HO.. not the 160 that I'd like to put.. perhaps I need to re investigate these wiring upgrades, from earth grounds, battery, alternator and so forth. As I do have a few things I wanna add.. HIDs for one.. and perhaps a sound upgrade.. I dunno need to find the wires or order.. I remember long ago Beave saying there needed to be an In Line fuse.. Glad it got included.

Happy driving to all.
svx1999



Zeppelin; "Dude, This is not your car!"
John;"I like soup!"

John Hoffman;Date of Birth:
August 11th, 1844
Age:
167

[Uncamitzi]

Check the small wires going to the plug on the alt.

My original source used to be Northwest Regulator Supply. They only deal with manufacturers now.

But you can buy them directly from their distributor Electric Motor Service in Logan, WV. Their phone number is 800- 697-6070

The part number is 050-012252 and they go for $9.53 each plus shipping with no minimum. I already ordered two more.




.
I'm betting that the shipping for one will be more than 9.53.... :(

[Uncamitzi]

Ok...wiring is done...and working...interesting side note..... for the past 3 years I've had to push the sunroof to start it when I wanted it opened...today..after all the wiring to the alternator was redone..... I just pressed the button and it opened by itself....whodathought?

[svxcess]

Ok... wiring is done... and working.
Interesting side note..... for the past 3 years I've had to push the sunroof to start it when I wanted it opened... today,after all the wiring to the alternator was redone, I just pressed the button and it opened by itself.

whodathought?


i have found that the wiring mod can increase battery voltage by almost 2 volts.

in the case of your tired sunroof motor, that may be all it needed to bring it back to proper health.

Glad everything is back to normal. in the world of gremlins, the electrical ones have got to be the worst!

.

[Uncamitzi]

I still have the code 34 EGR solenoid to hash out... but somehow.... that doesn't seem as important now that I'm not stalling out from a standing start.

[Uncamitzi]

OK.... raining and cold here...went for a longish drive 30 miles, parked, and on the way back it's almost like my car rebooted... ABS light came on...clock reset... I'm thinking I have a short on the alternator wire I've just replaced.... any other ideas?

[BoxerFanatic]

On the plastic connector, one wire is the field sense wire, that energizes the alternator when the ignition is on. Also monitors battery voltage and uses the regulator to supply additional voltage on demand

The other wire goes to the idiot light on the dash, turning it off when the alternator is charging.

If you are replacing the plug, make sure to keep the wires from getting switched around. Remove only one wire at a time and reconnect to the new plug to avoid confusion..

The original OEM plug has two wires of different thicknesses, the replacement plug has both wires the same size. Mark them however you want when changing them.
..

I just did that... and I hope the crimp ferrule that was big enough to fit over the large gauge wire, crimped down well enough on the small wire for the new plug.

I bent the wire strands back over the insulation, pushed it all the way in, and crimped it down, then shrink-tube and split-loom wrapped it. The other wire that was small to small was fine.

that is the only connection that I am even slightly worried about, but I am pretty sure it is sound.

everything else is going to plan, except the short alternator mount bolt isn't threading into the lower alternator mounting tab. It threads loosely, but doesn't tighten. I am going to have to go to the hardware store, and get a longer grade 6 bolt, and a self-locking nut and washers to secure it on the back side of the alternator mounting tab. I don't want that bolt shaking loose, and the alternator rattling around, and a bolt getting caught somewhere where it could damage something.

I have pictures, that I'll share once the work is done. It might be done tonight, otherwise tomorrow. The electrical work is in place, except for the testing, due to the alternator bolt, and then installing the belt again. Then test, then button up.

Then I have to decide whether I want to paint the wheels before re-mounting them on the car. Some of them are looking a bit rough. Once wrapped up, and the fluids checked, the car is back on the road.


BTW, on the plug, I ordered two last month, and it was about 30 bucks shipped, total, and FAST. SVXCESS's source is good. I still have a spare for the future, or a future other SVX.

The new plug, and the old plug are labeled + and -. Look at the socket end of the plug, and at the gap where the retaining tab is, you'll see the little plus and minus. The big wire on the original plug/loom, is minus, and on the new plug, is blue. Big = Blue is how I remembered it while I did the work... and I had the cut-off pigtail with the old brittle plug, right there in front of me, too. make sure the plug's tab is in the same orientation, and re-connect the wires.

I have been excessively careful with this whole process, which is why it has taken multiple sittings, and more than just a few hours spread out over almost 2 weeks now. I have been triple checking my work while I am doing it, and got side-tracked handling the new tire mounting. Most people would not take as long as I am taking to do this project... so please don't judge the task by my time-frame. :D