Crank Pulley Wrench

[SVX ROO]

Does anyone in Philly / NJ area have the crank pulley tool #499977000? Can I borrow/rent?

Does anyone anywhere know a generic substitute or or trick for getting the center bolt undone WITH ENGINE IN CAR i.e., I can not get a straight shot at it with an impact wrench.
SVXROO
'92 Pearl
'94Bordeaux

[Subafreak]

If you have a long 1/2inch ratchet or breaker bar, place it against the frame of the car and tap the ignition to break it free. It's a good idea to disable the coils or the the fuel pump so that it dosn't start when you do it. Another way is to remove the flywheel cover and stick a prybar against one of the converter bolts, you will probley have to do this to tighen the bolt when your done just be carefull not to break any sensors or anything it's kinda hard to get to.

I got a strap wrench, and wedged it against the power steering pump, then used a breaker bar to break the nut. worked great.

mike

[Ovidiu STAN]

Strap wrench worked for me too. I had to use a 4ft break bar for the bolt.

[Beav]

I just use a breaker bar (break-over bar for those following along with a Chilton's or Hayne's manual ) and a BFH. For those that have life-long battles with hand-eye coordination, like myself, you may want to place an unfolded cardboard box on the back of the radiator in order to protect it. My preferred weapon is a 48 oz. sledge=faced hammer. Slap the breaker bar with the side of the hammer a few times and the bolt should break loose. DO NOT give up and decide to drive the car without completing the job, as the belt may have jumped a tooth or two when utilizing this process. For those that wish to seek alternative methods I agree with the strap wrench solution or the factory tool (although I would never purchase one. )

[SVX ROO]

Thanks guys for the ideas. The general reply is use more power!! I like Subafreaks bumping the motor trick; I'm not sure I'm brave enough but I will use it if all is clear and other techniques fail. Obvoiusly I will check motor rotation first!!!

I was preparing to make my own tool similar to the factory one which is NLA (our favorite acronym! right?).

Now I will buy a long breaker bar and the correct 6 point socket. I tried a "strap wrench" but it was too wimpy. I'll upgrade that tool too. With two SVX's and both due for timing belts the investment is worth it.
SVXROO

Roo,

I made my own “make shift” “strap wrench” out of a piece of mountain climber’s rope and a crow bar. I tied the rope in a knot and looped it around the pulley like a noose, I put the crow bar through the “noose” and against the ground so it would tighten the “noose” when I loosened the nut… it worked great… I did use an 18-inch pry bar on the nut….

Bill

[elninoalex]

Can you get an impact wrench on it if you pull the radiator? Only takes five minutes to yank it.

[LarryIII]

Ken,

I have a length of pipe that I use as a breaker bar. Let me know if you want to borrow it.

[Mr. Pockets]

I made my own strap wrench, and I'm not real proud of it. I tightened up the accessory belt tensioner as much as I dared, wedged a screwdriver through the PS pump pulley, braced that against the pump, and used a breaker bar.

I removed the radiator entirely because I had to remove my oil pump and I needed to fit the gear puller in. That turned out to be a real good idea - my radiator was PACKED with dirt and debris, which turned out to be the problem with my AC. Not enough air was flowing through, and the condenser wasn't worknig properly because of it. I washed my radiator thoroughly and my AC works great now.

[cbx-man]

My old pulley's rubber stuff had disintegrated so the inner and outer pieces spun when I used a strap wrench. So, I had to make my own tool from a 30" long 2x6 and some 5/16" steel rod from the hardware store. I just drilled 4 holes to match the pattern and a hole in the middle for the socket. I also shaped a handle into it to make it a little more useable and now it kind of looks like an oar .

[SVX ROO]

Well I have taken SOME of your advice, but still the bolt won't budge. Hee is what I have done:
-used strap wrench
-since I followed the book and first pulled all the aux.'s off I do not have a solid piece to brace it on. Wife's arms just don't cut it!
-Got proper 6-pt 22mm socket
-24" breaker bar
-BIG hammer
...and I wacked, and wacked and wacked.

and I tried subafreak's trick of bumping the started...just got a 'clunk', even gave it a head start.

I want the guy over here that says he can pull the radiator in 5 minutes. Does he count time to drain fluids, ondo fans, move AC condensor and remove the grill piece? In 5 minutes!! Come on over!

I have never messed with Auto tranny's but I think blocking the crank solid at the rear is the way to go, but it could get real expensive if I mess something up. Any words of advice? What bolt? how far do I insert (no comment on that one)? How big a piece?

I am going to start removing fans and such to get more space.

I was heading in the direction of the homemade tool mimicking the Subaru part. I was figuing something that looked like a pulley with 4 bolts and a long handle bolted on. For me, it would have to sit in the pulley cavity.

Oh why didn't Subaru thread those holes????

More ideas please...
Ken

Only thing the strap wrench seemd to do was marr up the timing marks on the plastic behind pulley

[SVX ROO]

Finally got the bolt off, in the end it came off easily. I modified a screwdriver to fit just right in the front of the flywheel (converter bolt?) so that crank had no give at all. Then just a normal push on the 24" breaker bar and off she (bolts probably aren't she!!) came. No hammer, no pounding just normal torque.

So Subafreak had it right after all.

Thanks all, and see my new post about timing belt tensioner!
Ken