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#1
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Lights, Lights, and more Lights
I wanted to get some idea's (hint: PICS!) of how the few of you that have done Neon/LED Exterior/Interior Lighting.
my plans Include: Interior Lighting Under/Dash, and maybe under front seats, Exterior neon Lighting, Waterfall Grill and Tailbar Lighting, Headlight/Front Turn Glow, and maybe more later on down the line. I plan on starting with Interior Lighting. However, with the Interior Lighting under the dash, I am thinking about using CCFL Lighting, aka, Computer Lighting because the light bars are so thin, I can place them how I want, without blocking too Much. I plan on starting this very soon (within a few days or a week). I plan on taking the time, to correctly Wire everything very neatly, and Prob. Making a "switchbox" that goes into the Center Console Box, so everything is Nicely Hidden I plan on taking Pictures every step of the way. Now, I don't need any of the "neon's are so RICE" type of replies. I've always loved Automotive Lighting since I saw them for the first time on a Limo
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-Roger H. | Website - nsm484.com | Facebook - Roger Harvey | Twitter - nsm484 | Personal Locker 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer OZ Rally [Nori] 1996 LSi Polo Green [Calista] - 18" Konig Incident's - Lived for awhile Now Selling 1992 LSL Dark Teal [Yori] (Rear Ended, Donor to Calista, and now gone) 1992 LSL Ebony Mica (Sold to svxcuseme) |
#2
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Re: Lights, Lights, and more Lights
I'd use LED strips, and LED replacement bulbs for almost everything you describe, rather than CCFL or Neon. LED stuff is usually set up for 12-volt connection if pre-made, and some arrays are flexible, and even trim-able and coated to be weather-proof, and multiple colors are available. All are pretty small. CCFL requires transformers, and all sorts of other stuff, and rigid, non-twisting or bending mountings, to prevent breakage.
I don't usually want to go overboard, but I have thought about changing my cars' incandescent lighting, inside and out, with LED supplements and replacements, which is longer-life, brighter, and cooler running, with less power draw. LED or Electro-luminescent solid state is the way to go. Neon and other cathode based lighting seems a bit delicate, and inflexible, and requires more electrical adaptation. |
#3
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Re: Lights, Lights, and more Lights
Id suggest staying away from the neon approach. That belongs on signs and civics, IMO.
The best interior lighting upgrade is making sure all existing switches are correctly lit, and replacing map, dome, footwell, and door lighting with white leds. I have converted my license plate lighting to LED to compliment my HID headlamps on both my Claret and Ebony.
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1991 SVX L JDM 1992 SVX LS-L USDM |
#4
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Re: Lights, Lights, and more Lights
I already have blue accent neons, I have them under passenger and drivers side and also under each of the front seats to glow the back seat. I personally think it looks really good.
I only think neons and colored auto lighting is ricey if it's overdone gawdy and the tubes and lights themselves are visible. If it's clean hidden and installed with a switch I think it's hot. I'm currently working on rewiring all my neons in a new harness. I originally had circuit city do the wiring, but while doing 5spd swap I found out they wired through the ignition. I didn't like that. So I am wiring directly to the battery protected by fuse and other different things. I will post my general wiring diagram and pictures after, but if you'd like to see my original set up you can check it on my car domain. you can find that here http://www.cardomain.com/ride/709361 I am also accompanying this with a full blue interior light conversion (hvac, gauges, keysurround, the works) |
#5
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Re: Lights, Lights, and more Lights
ps: you can see it in person in august I'm driving back to daytona with it. I'll have my hydra and a few other new things
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#6
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Re: Lights, Lights, and more Lights
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So many people here in town with Neon/LED underbody with the tubes clearly visable, I want to everytime I see it. All Lighting should be hidden, as to give that pure glow effect. I am planning on doing my wiring alittle Different then most. One thing I like better then a Clean Install, is the Ability to remove it just as cleanly and nicely at anytime. I plan on having every part have their own connector. I plan on having all Switches, etc Hidden from view, so Unless you go exploring inside my car, you will never know where the switches/hookups are for the lights, etc.
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-Roger H. | Website - nsm484.com | Facebook - Roger Harvey | Twitter - nsm484 | Personal Locker 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer OZ Rally [Nori] 1996 LSi Polo Green [Calista] - 18" Konig Incident's - Lived for awhile Now Selling 1992 LSL Dark Teal [Yori] (Rear Ended, Donor to Calista, and now gone) 1992 LSL Ebony Mica (Sold to svxcuseme) |
#7
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Re: Lights, Lights, and more Lights
This looks like a possible waterfall grille project for the next Reading.
Can be left off for a totally stock look... Turned on to pure white for use with headlights... Or use the million-color mode with audio input. http://www.litewave.co.uk/scannermvie1.wmv Also flexible LED strips from 1" long to 6 feet.can be trimmed to length .
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. Subaru Ambassador 1996 Polo Green LSi #216..138,100 miles...SOLD JFICX8659TH100216.....Date of Manufacture: November 16, 1995..... Fuji Heavy Industries..Ōta North Plant....Ōta City,. Gunma Prefecture, Japan In-Service Date: January 2, 1997 "The Pristine Green Polo Machine” First Polo Green on the Network First Clear front turn signals, JDM Alcyone hood emblem, rear panel, and BOXER engine cover on the Network (US) (2000) First 5000K HID factory fog lights (2007) First SVX JDM BBS wheels on a USDM SVX (2013) HID lighting (5000K) for headlight and H3 fog lights, PIAA SuperExtreme 120W high beams, rebuilt EG33 longblock, Cometic head gaskets, Phase II flexplate, AMR aluminum radiator with custom silicone hoses, 160A high-output alternator in aluminum-ceramic coated case, new design alternator wiring upgrade v.4, rare factory headlight protectors, refinished JDM BBS mesh aluminum wheels and custom, polished billet aluminum new hex center caps, LED grille mod, R1 Concepts high-carbon cryo slotted rotors, Akebono ceramic pads, Goodridge S/S braided brake lines, Smallcar Stage 1 shift kit, ThermalTech aluminum/ceramic-coated valve covers, Energy Suspension urethane front & rear swaybar bushings, Bontrager22 rear swaybar with QS Components Chromoly Teflon/Kevlar endlinks, "$15.00/5 minute" suspension mod. Hella Supertone horns, Custom stainless steel exhaust system with 2" headpipes, Magnaflow cats, AeroTurbine AR25 resonator /AWD "Bullet" muffler. R.I.P. 2010 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5 CVT...338,000 miles. Totaled by a 1,300 lb. COW March 4, 2016 2014 Hyundai Avante Limited ...178,000 miles. Actually quieter and smoother than the Outback 2007 Mazda Miata MX-5 PRHT...102,000 miles. Plenty of parts, service and windshields. 4th Registered Network member —2/21/2001 My NEW locker..I...My Email..I..Wikipedia/SVX . . |
#8
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Re: Lights, Lights, and more Lights
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