Checking the IRIS. - Page 2

oab_au · #16 01-12-2005, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by RobSVX
I think I can see my 'Rod', but not sure. (now that I have your attention...!) I can use a light and mirror under the intake and catch a good view of it. One end appears to be the riveted to the diaphram, but don't see how it moves any ? The other end I can't really tell but is hooked up- It does appear to look like the picture in this thread.

Is this 'Rod' flat ? (Mine is and the flat surfaces faces forward).

Does it turn or does it push/pull ? Can't tell by what I'm observing that it could move anyway. Just doesn't appear to be on a moving surface.

I have good, even power at 4,000... but no surge. I was watching the rod, while my GF rev'ed the motor (it was warm) past 4,000 and didn't see any movement. I can't see any loose or bad hoses either.

Hi Rob, yes the rod is flat, and it does pull the valve open. The valve opends at 4000 rpm, it would have to stay at 4000 for a few seconds for it to open, if you are just reving it up, it may not have time to open.

If it has good top end power, above 4000, it is most likely working.

Harvey.

want-a-fast-svx · #17 09-26-2005, 05:47 PM

ok im trying to figure out this stalling issue now that i've found my keys. Im looking at the vaccum resevoir and pulled the front vaccum line and it had vacum so i;m assuming thats good. I cant tell from the pic though what exactly is moving. is it to the left or right of the black box on the pic? I appreciate any and all help. I have absolutely no power below 4000-4500 then its a whole new vehicle. I appreciate any and all help. As a extra note.. im still throwing a code 31 (tps) and 24(by pass air control) i've set the tps and replaced and checked the bypass. Im gonna check the tps again but could having the exhaust cut at the center cat cause the bypass code? Im still waiting to find someone with a welder around here to weld up the new cat.

svx_commuter · #18 09-27-2005, 12:20 PM

I think you need to replace the TPS. It just wears out and setting it will not fix it. It mess up a lot of other controls so it may be causing other problems.

TomsSVX · #19 09-27-2005, 01:48 PM

I have an extra if ya need it

Tom

want-a-fast-svx · #20 09-27-2005, 03:11 PM

i think im gonna try and set the tps again and try to fix the exhaust. The tps only has ~70k on it. Does anyone know if the exhaust or lack there of would throw the "bypass solenoid code" ? All the connections are good and the the resistance is good on them. I appreciate any and all help and i might just need to take you up on the tps offer. tanks again guys.

mbtoloczko · #21 09-27-2005, 04:16 PM

Did you measure the resistance of the TPS as you twist open the throttle linkage? You just need to stab two of the TPS wires with a needle (forget which two), and then you can clip on a multimeter to test the resistance as you twist open the throttle. Do it with the engine off. The resistance should smoothly vary through the entire range.

want-a-fast-svx · #22 09-27-2005, 04:59 PM

yea i took 2 tee pins and back probed the connection and the resistance smoothly changed last time i did it. Im gonna try again and see what happens. Probing wires is a last ditch effort so i try to avoid it, but it is quite a pain to use the pins.

oab_au · #23 09-27-2005, 06:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by want-a-fast-svx

ok im trying to figure out this stalling issue now that i've found my keys. Im looking at the vaccum resevoir and pulled the front vaccum line and it had vacum so i;m assuming thats good. I cant tell from the pic though what exactly is moving. is it to the left or right of the black box on the pic? I appreciate any and all help. I have absolutely no power below 4000-4500 then its a whole new vehicle. I appreciate any and all help. As a extra note.. im still throwing a code 31 (tps) and 24(by pass air control) i've set the tps and replaced and checked the bypass. Im gonna check the tps again but could having the exhaust cut at the center cat cause the bypass code? Im still waiting to find someone with a welder around here to weld up the new cat.

I haven't had the manifold off to see, but looking at the pic of the underside. If you are looking from the front of the manifold, the Vaccum tank is on the left side of center, the diaphram is on the right side of center, and the valve is in the center of the manifold. The rod that pulls the valve open, runs from the right side, to the lever on the valve, in the center. If the valve is shut, the end of the rod should be on the left, of center. If the valve is open, the end of the rod should be on the right side, of center.

If the valve is stuck open, you will only have the Resonate end of the IRIS working all the time. This should not affect the idling/stalling problem, but it would affect the power that it has below 4000 rpm. It would be flat till it got to a speed that allowed the Resonate system to start working, and the power would start with it. If it was stuck part open, it would degrade both, the Inerta and resonate systems.

If you can pull the hose off the diaphram, and plug another piece of hose on it, you could suck on it to see if the valve moves freely.

Harvey.