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  #16  
Old 03-03-2008, 10:36 PM
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Wow, that doesn't look hard at all. I had this horrible thought of it taking a long time and being horibly difficult, but dang, that almost looks easy.

So, this can just be done with any old set of stock struts in whatever condition I may find them in?

Also, would changing where you cut the strut affect the ride height? I mean, cut it higher...higher ride, cut it lower, lower ride? Or will the insert just bottom out inside the stock strut anyway?
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  #17  
Old 03-03-2008, 11:00 PM
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Keep in mind that is for the wrx... I wouldnt know how much different it is for an svx.
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  #18  
Old 03-03-2008, 11:05 PM
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Good point. I can't imagine it would be terribly different though.
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  #19  
Old 03-04-2008, 06:30 AM
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Check out Mychailo's web site. He will make anything you want and ship to you complete. Or he will sell you parts.
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...light=mychailo
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  #20  
Old 03-04-2008, 08:26 AM
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no, it is that easy... Just not everyone has a 2.5"tubing cutter... I highly suggest a center punch for the hole at the base too, because you don't want to have to make it bigger than nec. just the get the bolt in straight

Tom
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  #21  
Old 03-04-2008, 08:41 AM
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My buddy and I just used a hacksaw; it was plenty effective, although likely more labor intensive!
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  #22  
Old 03-04-2008, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomsSVX View Post
no, it is that easy... Just not everyone has a 2.5"tubing cutter... I highly suggest a center punch for the hole at the base too, because you don't want to have to make it bigger than nec. just the get the bolt in straight

Tom

Well, lucky me I DO have a tubing cutter and all the other stuff I'd need.

Thanks for the tip though!
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  #23  
Old 03-05-2008, 10:26 AM
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I always thought there was lots of "cutting and welding" involved in getting the Koni inserts to work? Fuddman's recent shop bill with 11 Hours labor does not seem like it would be "easy" for a first-timer.

Also, no matter what set up you do, from new stock to Koni/GC, aren't new strut mounts all the way around (especially rear) highly recommended?
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  #24  
Old 03-07-2008, 08:43 AM
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Labour is high because you need to drop the torsion bars and get the wheels out of the way, just like a wheel bearing job. and you need to take out the rear cargo cover to get at the top strut bolt on the rears. The actual "construction" of the new strut is only an hour or so for all 4 once you geared up & ready to start.

Definitely a good idea to check the mounts & replace if necessary. Rust on the rears and stress fractures on the front are not uncommon, not to mention simply 16 years of wear and tear on the bearing in the front mounts.
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