Top 5 worst "repairs"- add your favorites!

[Green1995SVX]

Originally Posted by Mike621

I will say that the worst repairs we encounter are cases of poorly-done bodywork! Bondo, rivets, spray cans,

Don't forget copies of the Meadville Tribune!

[Mike621]

Originally Posted by Green1995SVX

Don't forget copies of the Meadville Tribune!

It's hard to erase memories of the Tribune Method.

[SVXyGirl]

Originally Posted by YourConfused

rear diff repair bushing repair:

that is too funny....yet sad

[subarufamily]

tranny flush on a questionable tranny almost sure fire way to have to buy a new tranny

[PDSides]

"Also, Torque the axle nut, and do it with the wheel on the ground." [/QUOTE]
Doesn't the shop manual call for torquing the axle nut with the wheel OFF the ground? Side forces of the wheel weighted by the car create torque readings that are different than those when the wheel is suspended. Holding the wheel in place while torquing the axle nut with the wheel suspended is a pain in the butt but don't you get a much more accurate reading? Same goes for torque readings with lug nuts. Opinions? Facts?

[NiftySVX]

I always snug mine in the air to what is probably around 50 ft lbs and then tighten them with the weight on the bearing, that way everything is in position, but leaving the nut loose in the air and setting the car down would for sure be bad as it would likely seperate the bearing.

[svxistentialist]

Originally Posted by PDSides

"Also, Torque the axle nut, and do it with the wheel on the ground."

Doesn't the shop manual call for torquing the axle nut with the wheel OFF the ground? Side forces of the wheel weighted by the car create torque readings that are different than those when the wheel is suspended. Holding the wheel in place while torquing the axle nut with the wheel suspended is a pain in the butt but don't you get a much more accurate reading? Same goes for torque readings with lug nuts. Opinions? Facts?[/quote]
Have to agree with Preston here; what the WSM actually says is tighten the axle nut before putting on the wheel. List of instructions is as follows:

1. be careful not to damage inner oil seal lip
2. use a new self-locking nut
3. use a new axle nut
4. always tighten the axle nut before installing wheel on the vehicle. If wheel is installed and comes in contact with the ground when axle nut is loose, wheel bearings may be damaged.
5. be sure to tighten axle nut to specified torque. Do not overtighten it as this may damage wheel bearing.
6. when front drive shaft is to be replaced, also replace inner oil seal with a new one.
7. after tightening axle nut, lock it securely

[NiftySVX]

Ya, do what the book says. I always use the parking brake to hold the wheel still. And like I said, the nut is already tight before i put it on the ground. It's just easier to keep the car still. if it's tightened to 50 ft lbs in the air the bearing isn't gonna move when you go from 50-130 or whatever the spec is. But for sure do it how the book says.

Then again, I rarely replace the stake nut unless It is unusable, and i beat the hub out with a B-F-Hammer and a socket.

[svxistentialist]

Originally Posted by NiftySVX

Ya, do what the book says. I always use the parking brake to hold the wheel still. And like I said, the nut is already tight before i put it on the ground. It's just easier to keep the car still. if it's tightened to 50 ft lbs in the air the bearing isn't gonna move when you go from 50-130 or whatever the spec is. But for sure do it how the book says.

Then again, I rarely replace the stake nut unless It is unusable, and i beat the hub out with a B-F-Hammer and a socket.

The book is not 100% clear Nifty.

But then, neither were you in your first statement. What you have said above is 100% right for me. Tighten it best as possible in the air. Put on the wheel and torque to correct on the floor.

Joe

[Crazy_pilot]

I just grab my impact and pound the little ****er on till it won't turn no more.

What?

And that's why my car will never be touched by a Canadian Tire mechanic unless I know him really well, or I'm standing 2 feet away. Not that my car goes into other shops anyway...

[gbianchi]

I am sure all of us just could not live without.........wait for it.............climbing under the dash an fighting with the wire harness for hour on end looking for that short/disconnected/broken/whatever, yeah thats my idea of a goood time.......G

[subbieatnz]

How do you clean stop leak out of your raditor and coolin system

[NiftySVX]

You have to flush it several times and hope it comes out. I have had to replace radiators before because it won't come out.

[Elliott]

This was on the shop floor the other day after I did some investigating:


Chunks so big I could put them back together like a puzzle:


They didn't even attempt to pull the dent:


Front of the quarter was munched too under the plastic and the top was full of mud too, I don't have any before pictures though:

Just mocked up in that shot, it is welded on now and that door was also replaced from my parts car. Gap is beautiful, a huge improvement from when I got it, the door used to hit the quarter.

I pulled that rear part out so it is easier to cut off, it came out so easy, if I didn't have a parts car, I could fix it.

[scottsubarus]

R-134A retro fit went smooth on my 92.

I can honestly say it blows colder than any of the other vehicles that I own, and the heater will blow hot air much faster than any other car I own.