Overheating, First thing to do... try the HG Test..... - Page 2

nsm484 · #16 07-03-2009, 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoCal LS-L

Bare bones minimum.... lots of labor and a head gasket set. Of course you would definitely want to do valve cover gaskets too since it would be cake while the engine was out.

Since Gaskets are the cheaper part of this, I mite as well do exactly that.

The Labor will be done by me, as there is no way I can afford the labor involved in this.

Also, while I am thinking about it, what to Motor Mounts run? if I am going to have the engine out, and I can afford them, mite a well get them.

immortal_suby · #17 07-03-2009, 09:17 PM

$500 in parts.....you could get a lower mileage used engine for that and make most of your money back selling parts off your engine. You'd be back on the road in 1 day.

(speaking from experience)

SoCal LS-L · #18 07-03-2009, 10:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nsm484

Since Gaskets are the cheaper part of this, I mite as well do exactly that.

The Labor will be done by me, as there is no way I can afford the labor involved in this.

Also, while I am thinking about it, what to Motor Mounts run? if I am going to have the engine out, and I can afford them, mite a well get them.

Dont forget about renting or buying the engine hoist..... unless you're ripped like Arnie and can just pluck it right out with your fist

..... The motor mounts can/should wait till later, it would probably be best just to reseal as much as you can afford while the engine is out and easy to work on.

Theres so much nickel and dime maintenance you can do easily with the engine out (vac hoses, seals, bearings, cleaning, etc.) it might be wise to wait until you have it out before spending a lot, just to make sure you get what you really need. This goes back to the suggestion of renting another car, so you have the time to do it right and can wait if you have to order misc parts.

Hocrest · #19 07-03-2009, 11:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoCal LS-L

The block tester kit works on ALL cars that overheat as a result of HG leak.....

I passed two of those tests with no signs of HC in the coolant when I had bad HG's. I had no exhaust/coolant crossover, nor did I have any oil/coolant crossover. It turns out that there was an external leak, with coolant escaping from the block between the exhaust manifold and oil pan.

SoCal LS-L · #20 07-04-2009, 12:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hocrest

I passed two of those tests with no signs of HC in the coolant when I had bad HG's. I had no exhaust/coolant crossover, nor did I have any oil/coolant crossover. It turns out that there was an external leak, with coolant escaping from the block between the exhaust manifold and oil pan.

True enough..... I was just assuming that if he had a coolant under his car he would have mentioned it (as an obvious culprit for overheating). If not, then HG causing coolant loss internally would definitely mix combustion gasses into the cooling system, as it would be leaking into the cylinders or oil where exhaust gasses could be forced in. Since there was no mention of coolant leaks under his car..... if he does have a HG issue, this is a good candidate for the block tester kit, if just to be sure before yanking the engine on his daily driver.

nsm484 · #21 07-06-2009, 06:48 PM

I wasn't able to get a block tester kit, as I was planning on doing that today, but Instead the Front Right Brake line on Yori decided to fail, so I was working on that, and now I am waiting for the Brake line to show up tomorrow.

I have ordered the Head Gasket and Valve Cover Casket, but I need to know Torque Values! Can someone Post me the Torque values I will need? Maybe even some Helpful tips on pulling the engine? Remember, this is my first time, but I plan on learning alot from this.

I also found a decent deal on an Engine Lift Rental, so thats covered as well.

I plan on starting this Thursday, so as much information would be helpful, and again... thank you SWN Community!

TomsSVX · #22 07-06-2009, 06:50 PM

buy a Chilton/Haynes manual. They are in there and its 20 bucks

Tom

nsm484 · #23 07-06-2009, 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomsSVX

buy a Chilton/Haynes manual. They are in there and its 20 bucks

Tom

I guess the next question would be.... are they usually Available locally, or will it have to be ordered? My time is running out

TomsSVX · #24 07-06-2009, 07:20 PM

usually local. It is the same book for the legacy and outback. It has a red outback wagon on the front of it

Tom

oab_au · #25 07-06-2009, 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nsm484

, but I need to know Torque Values! Can someone Post me the Torque values I will need? Maybe even some Helpful tips on pulling the engine? Remember, this is my first time, but I plan on learning alot from this.

I plan on starting this Thursday, so as much information would be helpful, and again... thank you SWN Community!

Here are the head bolt torque and sequence.

Make sure that you follow the sequence exactly.

Harvey.

TomsSVX · #26 07-06-2009, 07:38 PM

I had posted that a while back as well but it was removed from the site for whatever reason

Tom

SoCal LS-L · #27 07-06-2009, 08:16 PM

If you are going to yank the heads after all.... couple words of advice. Take LOTS of pictures of hose routing, bolt locations etc..... every step of the way...... so when you go to reassemble you have some reference to where stuff goes.... you will have a lot of it laying loose and it gets confusing sometimes.

Secondly, double.... no triple check every step upon reassembly... DO NOT RUSH THROUGH IT as you can easily miss tightening a bolt or reconnecting a hose wrong, or even forgetting a gasket or fluid refill. Take your time so you can feel confident and secure in your repair.

Third, I would strongly recommend you have the heads machined and pressure tested while they are off..... if they warped even a little bit while they were overheated, and you dont machine them flat again on the sealing surface, expect to need new head gaskets again shortly.

Finally, hopefully you have a ride to and from an auto parts store while you do this, because you will most likely find misc. stuff you need in the middle of doing this.

Good luck and im sure you will have lots of help here!!!

nsm484 · #28 07-10-2009, 10:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoCal LS-L

Third, I would strongly recommend you have the heads machined and pressure tested while they are off..... if they warped even a little bit while they were overheated, and you dont machine them flat again on the sealing surface, expect to need new head gaskets again shortly.

Any idea how much this process would cost?

Also, just to update... I did buy a Block Tester. I Syphoned my fluid out of the rad. just enough to make sure it didn't get sucked into the tester.
I did the test 3 times, going nice and easy on the ball as to not suck in air too fast, And each time... It changed to yellow fairly quickly.

After having a long talk with Fuji (AvPPoW) I have decided to hold off on doing this, until I can get the needed time off to do it slowly and correctly.
Since this will be my first time doing a job like this, I am planning on taking 5 days off. I have 8 hours of Vacation, so I plan on doing it between work weeks as to not loose any hours.

Parts I have so far: Head Gasket, Valve Cover Gasket, and Spark Plug Tube Gaskets. Anything else I should get with this, that would fit my very limited budget?

redlightningsvx · #29 07-10-2009, 10:58 PM

Did you get the washer gaskets for the valve covers? I would change the sparkplugs while the motor is out unless they were recently changed.

nsm484 · #30 07-10-2009, 11:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redlightningsvx

Did you get the washer gaskets for the valve covers? I would change the sparkplugs while the motor is out unless they were recently changed.

I did not ;(

The Head/Valve Cover/Spark Plug Tube Gaskets are sitting at Subaru of Jacksonville waiting for me to pick them up... but I could always have them get more parts for me, They have always been very quick to get parts.