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#16
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Re: Removal of Crank Pully
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www.svxfiles.com The first SuperCharged SVX, the first 4.44 gears, the first equal length headers, the first phenolic spacers, the first Class Glass fiberglass hood, the first with 4, 4.44s in his driveway Fiberglass Hood thread My locker 4.44 Swap link |
#17
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Re: Removal of Crank Pully
Thanks for all the help guys, I hope by mid week I can get my car on the road
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#18
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Re: Removal of Crank Pully
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#19
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Re: Removal of Crank Pully
I've used the breaker bar/bump the starter method a few times on a few different cars and yes, it works, but it's always a little scary. I always try to secure the end of the breaker bar against the passenger side frame rail so it doesn't flail around. Sometimes that works, sometimes it doesn't. Last time I used this technique, the breaker bar got loose, swung around, and sheared off part of the back of my headlight housing. I think the potential of 'collateral damage' of that sort is more of an issue than strain on the starter. There's plenty of other stuff under the hood that can/could get damaged as well, and I certainly wouldn't let anyone else stand anywhere nearby! Don't do it with the hood closed either.
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#20
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Re: Removal of Crank Pully
This is totally not dangerous and there is no reason to do it any other way... if you use your head... a "big old breakover bar" and some foam under the end of the "big old breakover bar"
Just lay it on the edge of the fender and crank the engine a tad. Keith (be sure to select the correct fender) |
#21
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Re: Removal of Crank Pully
one other way is to take a 2x4 and drilling 5 holes in it. 4 of these will line up with the holes in the pully. you will load studs in these holes to hold the pully in place. the other hole with be centered between the first 4 and you will pass your socket on a small extension through the middle hole. now you can back up the pulley and remove the bolt easily.
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