Doing the dreaded seals this weekend! - Page 2

alia176 · #16 03-25-2003, 08:10 AM

Matt,

I was curious as to what type of tool did you use to secure the cam sprocket while tightening the nut. Did you use a chain wrench or a humongi channellocks or something else? I used the humongi channellocks to remove the nut but I wouldn't mind a less "aggressive" tool to get the job done. Also what's the torque spec on those nuts?

Tonight, I'll finish with the timing belt, rocker cover gaskets and then the radiator goes back in. The oil pan gasket is next. My wife is enjoying the SVX a little too much, better hurry up and finish the wagon before she gets a ticket for speeding!

Ali

mattski · #17 03-25-2003, 08:37 AM

I used a strap wrench. Be careful with the back plastic covers which have the timing marks. I cracked the timing mark on one side. I suggest making a small mark further back on the cover so if you do the same, there will be another mark that you can use.

I do not have the torque specs handy at work. If no one else can get them, I can look them up tonight at home.

Check out the "torquing" thread for some fascinating info on this procedure

Matt

mattski · #18 03-25-2003, 06:35 PM

There are 5 bolts listed with torque specs:

T1 47-54 ft lbs-cam sprocket bolts
T2 26-32 ft lbs - idler pulley bolts
T3 17-20 ft lbs - tensioner bolts
T4 3.6 ft lbs - belt cover bolts
T5 66-79 lbs - crank sprocket bolts.

Matt

kuoh · #19 03-25-2003, 06:58 PM

Those may be the listed torque specs, but I know for a fact that the crank and cam bolts are much higher than that from the factory. I would definitely tighten down the crank bolt as hard as possible, as we had an instance where the bolt backed out over time and let the crank pulley wobble and break the half moon key.

KuoH

Beav · #20 03-25-2003, 09:36 PM

For those that don't know, the reason there are two values for each bolt is that the lower figure is for used fasteners, the higher for new.

mattski · #21 03-26-2003, 07:35 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by kuoh
Those may be the listed torque specs, but I know for a fact that the crank and cam bolts are much higher than that from the factory. I would definitely tighten down the crank bolt as hard as possible, as we had an instance where the bolt backed out over time and let the crank pulley wobble and break the half moon key.

KuoH

Yes, I have heard the same thing. But overdoing it may cause problems the next time you need to change the belt.

And thanks Beav for the info enhancement. I remembered you pointing this out a while ago but could not remember exactly what you said.

Matt

alia176 · #22 03-26-2003, 08:31 AM

Thanks for the info Matt and Beav. Curious, why doesn't the manual recommend the use of any Loctite on any of the bolts?

svx_commuter · #23 03-26-2003, 10:59 AM

So you can get the bolts back out again. I have used the higher torque values with no problems.

alia176 · #24 03-28-2003, 10:05 AM

Just a quick note, all work is done. Wife says the car is running fine and no burning oil smell at stoplights.

Thanks to all for your inputs.

Ali