NO MORE CLICK click CLICK START..ONLY START! starter relay

[lhopp77]

Originally Posted by SomethingElse

got to work..opened it up..sure enough...the spring was slightly deformed causing it to only make contact in one small area...after years of being abused in one spot it began to develope craters

Its just a plain relay the same one used for the band-aid fix 12v 20/30 amps
the #s read 0332204150

the location,
Attachment 12853
Attachment 12854

Adding my two cents. Better pic of location to post in parts location section of How-To.

You will note that it is a long mounting bolt (14mm head) that DOES NOT need to be completely screwed out. The mounting bracket on the relay is slotted and will slip out when the bolt is loosened. IF the part you buy has a mounting hole, simply clip the ends as in pic StarterRelay4.

Bosch part# 0332204150
Autozone part# 19861
Carquest part# RY115

And I fully agree--WHY do the bandaid fix instead of the REAL fix???? Uses the same part.

Lee

[kwren]

Originally Posted by lhopp77

Adding my two cents. Better pic of location to post in parts location section of How-To.

You will note that it is a long mounting bolt (14mm head) that DOES NOT need to be completely screwed out. The mounting bracket on the relay is slotted and will slip out when the bolt is loosened. IF the part you buy has a mounting hole, simply clip the ends as in pic StarterRelay4.

Bosch part# 0332204150
Autozone part# 19861
Carquest part# RY115

And I fully agree--WHY do the bandaid fix instead of the REAL fix???? Uses the same part.

Lee

Great information Lee! Thank you!!!

To answer your question, we all went to the bandaid fix because we wanted to start our cars and no one on this form had a clue what the story was on the circuit so some of us designed an excellent way to get the car started.
I will certainly replace the correct part on my 2 cars now that I know what to do.
Changing the correct part will last longer than the mod as well because starting the car with the correct part will not involve relay contacts that arc when the ignition switch is turned to start!
With the old mod, the relays have a short lifespan if the car is started a lot.

Thanks again, Lee!

Keith

[kwren]

one more little thing...
The howto section might be technically correct, however... It would go mostly unseen on this form.

Keith

[SomethingElse]

I put "click" and "start" in the title because they seemed to be the most common words people would search for that have this complaint about our no start condition.

I feel the need to add some addional info.
My ignition switch finally took a final crap my car wont start at all now...
Gads already replaced it once before I got the car. It seems when these contacts start going bad in the relay it begins to draw excessive current through the switch causing more arcing, melting contacts.

Do yourself a favor. if your experiencing this symptom and have no idea if the switch or relay have been replaced...It would be good practice to replace both pieces at the same time. This way one wont wear out the other and both parts will last longer.

the Ignition switch subaru # ....83131pa000 (thanks hocrest)
and the relay (thanks Ihop77)
Bosch part# 0332204150
Autozone part# 19861
Carquest part# RY115

[Wikedjuggalo]

Sigh

I was hoping for a 10 dollar relax fix but I can't find the rely. I checked the diagram for the alarm system and it seems they would have removed it in install. Now I have to order the expensive ignition and hope that fixes the issue. Because I'll be damn there is no relay up there like the one pictured.

[kwren]

Come on guitar picker!

Bite the bullet and get your head under there and find that rascal!!

Maybe a good light and a mirror would do the trick for you.

Keith

[Wikedjuggalo]

Originally Posted by kwren

Come on guitar picker!

Bite the bullet and get your head under there and find that rascal!!

Maybe a good light and a mirror would do the trick for you.

Keith

Trust me its not under that dash or near the steering column. I spent 3 hrs today looking for that thing. I did learn a lot about the Clifford alarm system installed on the car. I shifted though all the wires including the "glass break and immobilizer boxes or whatever". They did manage to place the bolt in the proper mounting place but minus the relay.

[oab_au]

Just on the off chance that it is the gearbox inhibitor switch, try starting it in N instead of P.

Harvey.

[Wikedjuggalo]

Originally Posted by oab_au

Just on the off chance that it is the gearbox inhibitor switch, try starting it in N instead of P.

Harvey.

Started right up. today I haven't had the clicking issue but I'm sure it will return.

[NikFu S.]

Whoo hoo!

This worked for me. :D

[oab_au]

Originally Posted by Wikedjuggalo

Started right up. today I haven't had the clicking issue but I'm sure it will return.

You are right it is the inhibitor switch that is causing the trouble, but it is the high current flow that is the problem. I would do the Bosch relay mod to remove the 30 amp flow from all the switches that carry it. If you do the mod you can forget about replacing the switch as it will work OK when they only carry the 0.1.. amps that the relay needs to switch the 30 amps to the starter .

This is a link to the mod.
Cheers Harvey.

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...ht=Bosch+relay

[Lookin4SVX]

Harvey that link doesn't work, I get 404 error.

[oab_au]

Originally Posted by Lookin4SVX

Harvey that link doesn't work, I get 404 error.

Sorry try .this.
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...ht=Bosch+relay

Harvey.

[Lookin4SVX]

yup that works.

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by oab_au

You are right it is the inhibitor switch that is causing the trouble, but it is the high current flow that is the problem. I would do the Bosch relay mod to remove the 30 amp flow from all the switches that carry it. If you do the mod you can forget about replacing the switch as it will work OK when they only carry the 0.1.. amps that the relay needs to switch the 30 amps to the starter .

This is a link to the mod.
Cheers Harvey.

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...ht=Bosch+relay

It is not high current which is, or could be causing the problem. If this is/was the cause, there would have always been a problem, and every SVX would have a problem. The problem is caused by a fault which has developed, as a result of high current.

The faulty component should be located and corrected. Otherwise there could be a return of the problem at some later date.

For confirmation and the complete correct information, run back here to posts #46 and #47 and then read this thread through completely.