Axle Tips

[Mr. Pockets]

My only tip is thig: I have not yet successfully removed a Subaru axle nut. On my SVX, I tried for over an hour. On the Legacy, I gave up pretty quickly and tried another solution to the problem I had to solve.

The axle nuts are on very tightly. Jumping on a 24" breaker bar, I was unable to loosen the SVX's axle nut. On the Legacy, I used a piece of pipe to make the same breaker bar over four feet long, and I was still unable to crack it.

If you get yours off, let me know how. Next time I'm packing explosives.

[kuoh]

Weird. I helped to change two axles and we didn't have any problems with loosening the nuts, once we straightened out the notch. You did do that didn't you?

KuoH

[Earthworm]

Originally posted by CDG
Thats great to hear CT has axles for the SVX, I still have the old one from my $417US new from the dealer replacement. So I'll probably just get a rebuild one to put on the shelf, till I need to do the left side.
Thx Earthworm.

The axles I ordered from CT had to be shipped to Winnipeg from Vancouver. I bet they're out of stock there now

(chances are you'd get the rebuilt axles coming off MY car.)

[Beav]

Originally posted by lee


Beav,

I don't have to do this job (yet), but was wondering...are you referring to the trick I learned from you about the 3 bolts on the lower end of the arm? I know this will allow enough movement to pull the axle off the tranny. Does it then give you enough room to get the axle out of the hub?

tia.

Yup, it does. The two bolts he was referring to are the two that sit directly above the hub, tying the knuckle and strut together. They also provide the means for adjusting camber. No matter how well you mark them before dissasembly it would only be a stroke of luck to get them back precisely enough not to have changed the toe setting (camber and caster adjustments affect toe.)

[Beav]

Originally posted by Mr. Pockets
My only tip is thig: I have not yet successfully removed a Subaru axle nut. On my SVX, I tried for over an hour. On the Legacy, I gave up pretty quickly and tried another solution to the problem I had to solve.

The axle nuts are on very tightly. Jumping on a 24" breaker bar, I was unable to loosen the SVX's axle nut. On the Legacy, I used a piece of pipe to make the same breaker bar over four feet long, and I was still unable to crack it.

If you get yours off, let me know how. Next time I'm packing explosives.

Nick,

You could always slip someone at the tire shop $5 to loosen and re-torque the nut(s) for you. They weren't torqued that high at the factory but with so many hot and cool cylces they do tend to be difficult to break free. Either that or you're trying to turn them the wrong way.

[Mr. Pockets]

Originally posted by Beav


Nick,

You could always slip someone at the tire shop $5 to loosen and re-torque the nut(s) for you. They weren't torqued that high at the factory but with so many hot and cool cylces they do tend to be difficult to break free. Either that or you're trying to turn them the wrong way.

Well, the axle nut that I tried to loosen on the SVX was the front left and on the Legacy it was the front right. I wondered, both of those times, whether either was reverse threaded, but I found nothing that suggested it.

Is either one reverse threaded?

And, yes, I unstaked the nuts on both axles - it didn't matter because I couldn't get them to budge anyway.

[elninoalex]

Originally posted by Beav


Yup, it does. The two bolts he was referring to are the two that sit directly above the hub, tying the knuckle and strut together. They also provide the means for adjusting camber. No matter how well you mark them before dissasembly it would only be a stroke of luck to get them back precisely enough not to have changed the toe setting (camber and caster adjustments affect toe.)

Beav- I swear I asked you about that, and you said I didn't need to realign if I didn't undo the tie rod. I've had those bolts out almost a dozen times and I didn't notice that they could go back in a different fashion. Oh well.

Stephen