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Front Bearing R & R
Please point me to the remove/install instructions for FRONT BEARINGS (OEM). [I'll be using a HubTamer] Do I need to remove tierod end ball joints? Thanks!
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Jim 1995 Laguna Blue SVX AWD L - 240K (daily driver) - "ReBuILT" used engine at 236K miles (6/13) 2013 Veloster Red - Driver Now??Dropsprings [1/2" rear, 1" front] with Koni Strut Inserts> Magnaflow Exhaust System> ECUTune Stage 1av1 Upgrade (from 1v4)> ECUTune TCU MOD> Aluminum Crankshaft Pulley> Stainless Brake Lines> Phenolic Spacers> Perforated Brake Rotors (dint like, OEM now)> SmallCar Shift Kit (resting since TCU MOD)> 7-Position Ground System> High-Pressure Fuel Pressure Regulator (resting)> ATF Cooler & Campaign Filter> Yellow Polish Polyurethane Bushings> Pioneer Double-DIN Stereo with JL AUDIO Speakers> Driveshaft Rebuilt with C-Clip U-Joints> 15 Min MOD> 20 Min MOD .. . (2011) Valentine One Radar Detector with Remote Display - ucan'tseeme! Last edited by James Scott; 09-15-2003 at 03:57 PM. |
#2
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Unbolting the lower ball joint will be required to allow axle removal. Separating the tie rod end will make the job soooo much easier.
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ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician w/L1. ASE Certified Master Medium/Heavy Truck Technician. Certified EVT (Emergency Vehicle Technician) |
#3
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don't know if there is/isn't a front bearing how to....but
Beav is the originator of a trick that has you remove the three bolts at the bottom of the lower A-arm. This allows the hub to be pulled out enough to get the axle out without disturbing the ball joint and eliminates the need for a realignment. A diligent search will turn up a bunch on axle removal - then it's just a matter of knowing how to use the hub tamer. basically, remove wheel, remove axle nut, remove 3 bolts, remove pin on transmission end of axle, remove axle, use hub tamer to R&R bearing, reverse, live happily ever after - or until you need the car again, (whichever comes first) |
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