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#46
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![]() http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...894#post366894 thanks, Jake
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1992 Pearl / Black SVX removed intake silencer, k&N pannel filter, trans cooler, 94 JDM 4eat, Noltec front swaybar mounts, Motorsport D&S disks with EBC Greenstuff pads |
#47
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thanks for replyin buddy
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1992 Pearl / Black SVX removed intake silencer, k&N pannel filter, trans cooler, 94 JDM 4eat, Noltec front swaybar mounts, Motorsport D&S disks with EBC Greenstuff pads |
#48
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Never noticed this in my 96 SVX (76,000 kms) running Goodyear Eagles, until last service when Zupps Gold Coast rotated the wheels. steering wheel gets the shakes from10kmh up to 70kmh. Took it back and they rotated them back, reckoned they tested and adjusted wheel balance but it is my tyres which now have high spots and are causing the problem.
Anyone else come across this? |
#49
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nope never
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1992 Pearl / Black SVX removed intake silencer, k&N pannel filter, trans cooler, 94 JDM 4eat, Noltec front swaybar mounts, Motorsport D&S disks with EBC Greenstuff pads |
#50
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retired kiwi
Hey Kiwi, I have stopped taking my car to Zupps. they really don't have anyone left who knows the car. suggest you go to "john french motors' up in brisbane.
Joann ![]() |
#51
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Ta muchly
Thanks Joann - will look at doing that. You are right - although they sold some there is no-one there now who seems very knowledgable.
Was in at Honda today and they sais tyre scalloping is not uncommon and to look at changing the tyres so will do as the shake in the steering wheel annoys me when driving an otherwise smooth machine! |
#52
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Tightening sequence is important.
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There is another factor in the wheel/tyre equation you may not be aware of; the SVX is pretty sensitive to how the wheels are tightened up when changes are made. The absolutely correct mode is to partially tighten the wheels while the car is off the ground. The studs MUST be tightened diagonally, i.e. in the sequence 1,3,5,2 and 4 from the starting position. The wheels should be partially but firmly tightened off the ground, then when the car is lowered to the ground, all studs should be finished to the recommended torque, and again, this MUST be in the sequence noted above. The recommended torque for the studs is 98-110 N-m or 72-87 ftlbs. I have watched the best of tyre fitters and garages at work, and 9 out of 10 will fit your wheel to the axle, then proceed to use an air socket at high torque to stitch on your wheel in the sequence 1,2,3,4 and 5. Of course, if the wheel is slightly off when tightening stud 1, the finished result is your wheel rim will be revolving eccentrically on the axle, and the resulting wear will definitely give your tyre flat spots, because the ABS will have a hard job of pulling up the wheel evenly, and one position of the tyre will get worn more than the rest. Jack up the car yourself, loosen the front wheels, and re-tighten them PROPERLY. If they were wrongly fitted, you will notice a difference straight away. I no longer trust any garage or wheel fitter unless I am standing over them while they do the job. What works OK for the majority of modern cars with an accurate aligning central spigot does not work well for the SVX at all. It is hard to get this message across to the spanner men, because they are self-styled "experts" and they know it all. Best of luck with the problem, Joe ![]()
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Black Betty [Bam a Lam!] '93 UK spec, still languishing Betty Jersey Girl Silver '92 UK [Channel Isles] 40K Jersey Girl @ Mersea Candy Purple Honda Blackbird Plum Dangerous White X2 RVR Mitsubishi 1800GDI. Vantastic 40,000 miles Jersey Girl |
#53
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Once a Kiwi....
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One of my good mates is a Kiwi, and by the sound of him, I'd say he was stuck with it for life. ![]() Do the Aussies have a rehabilitation programme for it, or what? ![]() ![]() Joe ![]()
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Black Betty [Bam a Lam!] '93 UK spec, still languishing Betty Jersey Girl Silver '92 UK [Channel Isles] 40K Jersey Girl @ Mersea Candy Purple Honda Blackbird Plum Dangerous White X2 RVR Mitsubishi 1800GDI. Vantastic 40,000 miles Jersey Girl |
#54
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New Problem?
Recently started to notice a 'Judder' when pulling away at a corner?
Doesn't seem to happen when accelerating straight ahead from a standing start, only turning a corner. Sounds to be coming from the rear. Does the rear viscous LSD fluid beak down? As to some of the earlier posts in this thread, I too have an interesting rattle from the exhaust. Haven't checked the RPM, but is definately a tinny, harmonic sound. Sounds like two bits of cracked metal touching, but can't seem to find it, I just live with it. ![]() Arthur.
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'80 DL 4x4 Wagon-White (gone) '91 DL 4x4 Wagon-White (gone) '92 SVX LSi Burgundy/Black with wing. (gone) ![]() '04 Liberty B Spec 3.0R wagon-Silver ![]() '02 Outback 2.5 wagon-White For Sale ![]() I Don't Drive Fast, I Just Fly Low!! I've moved to Taree ![]() That's a 'V' in SVX dammit! |
#55
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Arthur
The judder you mention when pulling away on a corner, that usually indicates a problem at the back part of the gearbox, clutches starting to bind up. Run the question past Harvey, he has a good idea of what goes on in the box. If you check is it putting out codes, that might eliminate a problem with the C solenoid, if no codes showing. Sounds like clutches binding in the rear transfer to me. Regards the exhaust rattle. Two possibilities. One is the heat shields, they are above the exhaust pipe, between it and the body, in an attempt to keep too much heat soaking into the cabin. If one comes loose, it can rattle or fizzle at certain revs. If you put the car up on a ramp at the exhaust shop, and rev through the range, you may be able to see one rattle, and fix it. The second possibility is the more likely culprit. The box in the pipe aft of the three cats, this is called a resonator. It has baffle plates inside it. They become loose and fizzle or rattle, usually when you are pulling away, or pulling up to a stop. Some people cut it out, and put in a straight pipe. Don't do this if you can avoid, it makes the exhaust sound blary. One guy cut his resonator open, tack welded the loose plates, and seam welded it shut again. If you have a friend handy with a welder, and the resonator is rattly, this will fix the problem. Joe ![]()
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Black Betty [Bam a Lam!] '93 UK spec, still languishing Betty Jersey Girl Silver '92 UK [Channel Isles] 40K Jersey Girl @ Mersea Candy Purple Honda Blackbird Plum Dangerous White X2 RVR Mitsubishi 1800GDI. Vantastic 40,000 miles Jersey Girl |
#56
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Quote:
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Mine is a 'light' type at around 1250 through to 1750 rpm (very slight, hard to hear) then it comes back with a vengeance at 2500 and goes to 3000rpm It's loud and sounds like I've got got the worlds largest flying tin insect caught under the car. (I did have a 'rattle' that was the headshield "bouncing" over the driveshaft therefore related to bumps on the road) - this other one is definitely related to engine RPM and nothing else. I have long suspected it was internal to the exhaust, and Subaru have taken the heatshields apart and found nothing. My father remains convinced it is the heatshields, or at least that I should try starting with them, but I am hoping that a spare exhaust I will have on the way to me soon will identify the source. I'll try replacing piece by piece and when I find the offending article, I'll see about fixing it. But it is driving me NUCKING FUTS! It is the only thing about my car which I cannot stand, and once it is fixed I will once again breathe easy. Thganks for your input 'Stentialist. If you have anything further to add, drop us a few lines ![]()
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'07 Outback (Legacy) Pearl White > 3.0R Premium, stock (50,000km, Wifes daily driver. Owned from new) Not For Sale '92 SVX Black on Pearl White > 6spd, DCCD on the way. (260,000km, My daily driver, 2 previous owners) Not For Sale '93 SVX Black on Charcoal > Aftermarket rims.(250,000 km, Dad's daily driver, unknown owners) Not For Sale '93 SVX Black on Burgundy > Completely stock, under preservation, treated like a princess. (55,000km, 1 previous owner) Not For Sale '92 SVX Black on Burgundy > Completely stock, under preservation, treated like a princess. (144,000km, 2 previous owners) Not For Sale Wife, Red Hot when riled > Treated like a princess. Minister For Finance, Domestic Affairs and Diplomatic Relations. Definitely Not For Sale My Wanted List: http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...178#post632178 |
#57
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Yeah, McTaff, I agree it is one of THE most annoying problems the SVX throws up.
You are driving around in a rock solid quiet luxury coupe, and pulling into or out of car parks you get this rattle. Makes it sound like a banger!! ![]() Sounds like your problem is loose baffle plates in the resonator. You might have gathered that I fixed my last car by replacing with a straight pipe. Bad move! ![]() If it happens again in Betty, my latest, I will either replace the resonator [comes with a whole section of pipe, so it's not cheap] or else take the tin opener to the rattly resonator box and fix all loose baffles. Joe ![]()
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Black Betty [Bam a Lam!] '93 UK spec, still languishing Betty Jersey Girl Silver '92 UK [Channel Isles] 40K Jersey Girl @ Mersea Candy Purple Honda Blackbird Plum Dangerous White X2 RVR Mitsubishi 1800GDI. Vantastic 40,000 miles Jersey Girl |
#58
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Guys you need to keep a eye on the tail shaft as it can cause vibration as well.
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1995 - SVX 700,000 K Mine, DMS Struts to lift car 2in. Tyres Wrangler Silent Armor 235/70R16, PBR Radiator. 6 speed with DCCD and R180 rer diff, Heavy duty top strut mounts front and rear. Speedo correction box fitted. New stero (gave up on the old one). Back seat removed and 2 spare tyres fitted for desert driving. ECUTune SC sitting in the box for the next SVX. 1992 - SVX 255 K Wife (Want to stay Married so not allowed to fit SC) 1992 - SVX Pearl with black roof race car roll cauge etc ready to race. Ex Tasman Targa car. 1995 - SVX Green low k mint condiation. 1995 - SVX Rally car, ex Matts car. Now to be used on track. 1992 - SVX red & Black being converted to Mid Engine. 1995 - SVX Red 143,000 bit rough. Owned 5 others Subaru back to a 1974 1400 GSR. |
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