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#16
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I think more important than smooth pressure is that everything is aligned. I'd assume that the iron beam and your house beam are parallel length wise, but are they twisted at all??? How will you insure that the jack, and the surface on top of the jack remain straight???
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Dave - 03 Baja - 92 SVX - 86 Brat - 08 OB 3.0 |
#17
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My write up
http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/user.php?SVX10
I've got a full write up in there. I have some more pictures on my computer if you need them. I used the 12ton press from Harbor Freight.
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Time for my very own long list of mods: 92 SVX LS-L - Ebony Pearl - 2002 WRX 5MT trans w/STi gearset (rebuilt & installed myself ) - BMW E46 HID retrofit - Kenwood Headunit - Phoenix Gold 75x4 RMS amp - Alpine Type R 6.5" front components - Alpine Type R 6x9 3way rear speakers - 18"x9" Rota G-Force wheels w/225/40ZR18 Toyo T1R's - Mychailo's custom springs - Urethane front & rear sway bar bushings - KC exhaust (2.5" dual magnaflow) - Escaine seat swap - Removed Spoiler I don't care if Subaru says it's STI...it will always be STi to me |
#18
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Quote:
Sweet, that's what I was looking for. Thanks. Last edited by joburnet; 03-09-2007 at 11:03 AM. |
#19
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Pressing bearings out
FWIW - I used a 4 ton press I have and pressed the bearing out with no problem at all. Just pressed it out using the inner race and a socket. Probably helps not having a bunch of rust and corrosion on the hub - always pressure wash the area when I do a major wash on the car, and everything came apart easy.
So...any of the Harbor freight presses are adequate for this work unless your bearings are frozen in the hub by rot. |
#20
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Quote:
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. Earl .... ... .... ><SVX(*> Subaru Ambassador [COLOR=”silver”]1992 Tri Color L[/COLOR] ~45K (06/91) #2430 1992 Dark Teal LS-L ~184K (05/91) #0739 1992 Claret LS-L ~196K (05/91) #0831 1992 Pearl LS-L ~103K (06/91) #1680 1992 Pearl LS-L ~151K (06/91) #2229 1992 Dark Teal LS ~150K (07/91) #3098 (parts car) 1992 White LS-L ~139K (08/92) #6913 1993 25th AE ~98K (02/93) #164 1993 25th AE ~58K (02/93) #176 1993 25th AE ~107K (02/93) #215 1993 25th AE ~162K (02/93) #223 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~124K (1/94) #2408 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~144K (10/93) #1484 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~68K (10/93) #1525 1994 Barcelona Red LSi ~46K (02/94) #2624 1994 Pearl LSi ~41K (12/93) #1961 1995 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~70K (02/95) #855 1996 Polo Green LSi ~95K (03/96) #872 1997 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~55K (08/96) #097 2003 Brilliant Red LS1 Convertible ~29K (04/03) #8951 1999 Magnetic Red LS1 Coupe ~33K (04/99) #6420 My Email | Old Locker | New Locker | Picture of 15 of the 19 |
#21
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Got the rear wheel bearing in today, here is a pic:
http://filebox.vt.edu/users/joburnet...eelbearing.JPG Do I need to purchase seals as well? Last edited by joburnet; 03-13-2007 at 01:48 PM. |
#22
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If anyone has pictures of this being done it would help a lot. Thanks.
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#23
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Yes!
Quote:
Lee
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SVXx2 92 SVX LS-L Silver 92 SVX LS-L Burgundy (structurally challenged with 2792 miles) 96 SVX LSi Red 92 SVX L Pearl (Body-rust free) 20 F150 4X4 King Ranch FREEDOM IS NOT FREE |
#24
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You have a part number?
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#25
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Alright, I'm trying to get the axle nut off, the first step after you get the wheel off, and I'm having no luck. I already broke a 2" long 1/2" extension, that's a pretty damn big chuck of metal, and craftsman. Somebody warped the lip of the axle nut and I tried straightening it out as best I could, it doesn't look like it should keep it from turning.
Am I missing something here? Edit: I got it off, I had to jump on the end of a long touque wrench for a while and eventually it came off. No other problems so far. Last edited by joburnet; 03-14-2007 at 04:11 PM. |
#26
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I followed the directions here at the bottom of the page:
http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/user.php?SVX10 I got everything done but the sway bar, ebrake cable, and brake cable are still attached. I'm not exactly sure what a "knuckle" is so do I have to remove all those things or is there a way of getting around it? |
#27
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I'm not familiar with the names as well, all I did was disconnect anything that was connected to the hub. Take a photo before taking anything apart, this will help to reassemble. The axle nut has to be straightened back into shape and a breaker bar (a pipe over the ratchet) is needed. I used a four foot pipe. Good luck on your journey.
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#28
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I got it off, it only took 5 mins to get the cables and sway bar disconnected. I now have the hub in my kitchen and the wheel bearing doesn't look bad. It seems to rotate pretty well, makes me wonder if I picked the right wheel. The "left rear wheel bearing" was replaced in 02 and 15k miles ago, and the noise sounded like it was coming from the passengers side so that's the one I took off. We will see, now I just have to find a press.
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#29
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Arg, I got the wheel bearing pressed in at a machine shop today and then start putting everything back together and it starts raining when I get to the ebrake. It's not supposed to stop raining till Saturday and even then it's going to be cold. One more hour and it would have been ready for the weekend.
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#30
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My two cents --- don't reuse the castle/axle nut. Get a new one. The old one will never torque to spec. One more thing, when you torque the axle nut be sure to have the wheel off the ground. You will be tempted to bolt on the wheel sans the center-piece and torque through the opening with the tire on the ground to keep the assembly from turning. NOT!!! Torque readings will be way off the mark. Find a way to hold the assembly in place without the tire/wheel being on the ground. Good luck with the parking brake -- it is a bit of a puzzle without good instructions/drawings/pictures.
Preston |
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