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  #16  
Old 03-09-2007, 10:33 AM
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Hocrest Hocrest is offline
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I think more important than smooth pressure is that everything is aligned. I'd assume that the iron beam and your house beam are parallel length wise, but are they twisted at all??? How will you insure that the jack, and the surface on top of the jack remain straight???
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  #17  
Old 03-09-2007, 10:44 AM
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My write up

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/user.php?SVX10

I've got a full write up in there. I have some more pictures on my computer if you need them. I used the 12ton press from Harbor Freight.
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  #18  
Old 03-09-2007, 10:58 AM
joburnet joburnet is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVX10
http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/user.php?SVX10

I've got a full write up in there. I have some more pictures on my computer if you need them. I used the 12ton press from Harbor Freight.

Sweet, that's what I was looking for. Thanks.

Last edited by joburnet; 03-09-2007 at 11:03 AM.
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  #19  
Old 03-12-2007, 12:00 AM
Robar Robar is offline
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Pressing bearings out

FWIW - I used a 4 ton press I have and pressed the bearing out with no problem at all. Just pressed it out using the inner race and a socket. Probably helps not having a bunch of rust and corrosion on the hub - always pressure wash the area when I do a major wash on the car, and everything came apart easy.

So...any of the Harbor freight presses are adequate for this work unless your bearings are frozen in the hub by rot.
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  #20  
Old 03-12-2007, 12:58 AM
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ensteele ensteele is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVX10
http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/user.php?SVX10

I've got a full write up in there. I have some more pictures on my computer if you need them. I used the 12ton press from Harbor Freight.
If you email the How-To Doc to me, I will put it in the locker so everyone can find and use it. Thanks
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  #21  
Old 03-13-2007, 12:39 PM
joburnet joburnet is offline
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Got the rear wheel bearing in today, here is a pic:

http://filebox.vt.edu/users/joburnet...eelbearing.JPG

Do I need to purchase seals as well?

Last edited by joburnet; 03-13-2007 at 01:48 PM.
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  #22  
Old 03-13-2007, 01:25 PM
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If anyone has pictures of this being done it would help a lot. Thanks.
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  #23  
Old 03-13-2007, 02:09 PM
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lhopp77 lhopp77 is offline
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Yes!

Quote:
Originally Posted by joburnet
Got the rear wheel bearing in today, here is a pic:

http://filebox.vt.edu/users/joburnet...eelbearing.JPG

Do I need to purchase seals as well?
Yes, you need inner and outer seals. Buy ONLY from Subaru.

Lee
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  #24  
Old 03-13-2007, 02:10 PM
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You have a part number?
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  #25  
Old 03-14-2007, 02:51 PM
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Alright, I'm trying to get the axle nut off, the first step after you get the wheel off, and I'm having no luck. I already broke a 2" long 1/2" extension, that's a pretty damn big chuck of metal, and craftsman. Somebody warped the lip of the axle nut and I tried straightening it out as best I could, it doesn't look like it should keep it from turning.

Am I missing something here?

Edit: I got it off, I had to jump on the end of a long touque wrench for a while and eventually it came off. No other problems so far.

Last edited by joburnet; 03-14-2007 at 04:11 PM.
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  #26  
Old 03-14-2007, 07:19 PM
joburnet joburnet is offline
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I followed the directions here at the bottom of the page:

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/user.php?SVX10

I got everything done but the sway bar, ebrake cable, and brake cable are still attached. I'm not exactly sure what a "knuckle" is so do I have to remove all those things or is there a way of getting around it?
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  #27  
Old 03-14-2007, 08:05 PM
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dannmarr dannmarr is offline
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I'm not familiar with the names as well, all I did was disconnect anything that was connected to the hub. Take a photo before taking anything apart, this will help to reassemble. The axle nut has to be straightened back into shape and a breaker bar (a pipe over the ratchet) is needed. I used a four foot pipe. Good luck on your journey.
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  #28  
Old 03-14-2007, 08:12 PM
joburnet joburnet is offline
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I got it off, it only took 5 mins to get the cables and sway bar disconnected. I now have the hub in my kitchen and the wheel bearing doesn't look bad. It seems to rotate pretty well, makes me wonder if I picked the right wheel. The "left rear wheel bearing" was replaced in 02 and 15k miles ago, and the noise sounded like it was coming from the passengers side so that's the one I took off. We will see, now I just have to find a press.
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  #29  
Old 03-15-2007, 04:30 PM
joburnet joburnet is offline
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Arg, I got the wheel bearing pressed in at a machine shop today and then start putting everything back together and it starts raining when I get to the ebrake. It's not supposed to stop raining till Saturday and even then it's going to be cold. One more hour and it would have been ready for the weekend.
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  #30  
Old 03-15-2007, 06:03 PM
PDSides PDSides is offline
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My two cents --- don't reuse the castle/axle nut. Get a new one. The old one will never torque to spec. One more thing, when you torque the axle nut be sure to have the wheel off the ground. You will be tempted to bolt on the wheel sans the center-piece and torque through the opening with the tire on the ground to keep the assembly from turning. NOT!!! Torque readings will be way off the mark. Find a way to hold the assembly in place without the tire/wheel being on the ground. Good luck with the parking brake -- it is a bit of a puzzle without good instructions/drawings/pictures.
Preston
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