Questions from a delighted and excited new owner

plantchick · #1 08-12-2008, 01:08 AM

Hi All,

As of ten days ago I'm the proud and delighted owner of a '92 charcoal (or is it dark grey???) SVX.

Before stumbling accross her for sale through a friend of a friend I'd never seen or heard of the SVX before (do I ever feel luck smiled on me) and so knew nothing about them. Even though I'd already fallen for her, the info I'd found elsewhere on the trans, bearing and disc issues were making me thing it wouldn't be a good idea.

Then I found this site and have spent hours and hours here the past couple of weeks. There's so much information, knowledge, experience and passion here! Anyways, I came away with the impression that yes, there were issues I'd have to make sure were addressed, but if I looked after her she'd look after me.

Many, many thanks to those who maintain/administer the site and those of you who share so much of your knowledge. Since I'm in regional Qld there's no way I could have risked buying her without knowing there was all this information I could turn to.

And I wanted her! I grin every time I think of her.

(umm... should probably mention that I'm all excited and bubbly and could go on and on... I'll try not to but don't know how successful I'll be for a while, at least)

I have a question (actually I have dozens)...

I take her in tomorrow for a trans service. I've found a mechanic I'm happy with who serviced her last week, but he doesn't know the SVX. From what I've read here I should count myself lucky he could tell me the brake bands on the trans needed tightening when he did the roadworthy and before he had any info other than what was before his eyes. Anyways, I subscribed to the STIS site and downloaded the US service manual and he's since gone through it.

Finally the question.... I have no history (or owner's manual!) of her beyond the past owner (3yrs). How do I find out what of the initial Subaru revisions have been done to the transmission, if any?

I do know she doesn't have an external filter or cooler (will be doing the cooler) but that's about it. I've read about transmission numbers x-y having this revision or that revision, but am confused.

The plan was to do the trans at the same time as the service, but he was told by the Subaru dealer that "we don't make service kits anymore, you'll have to go elsewhere". So I said I'd source it. I've picked up a service kit from Repco (thank you legacyau) and the mechanic did get an OEM gasket before stalling on the filter.

My thought is that given the trans heat issues + living in the tropics I should have the mechanic use the OEM gasket with the aftermarket filter. (the aftermarket gasket is only rubberised cork). Am I on the right track?

Apologies for the epic post.... I'll put details of the car I've seen asked of new owners in another post so either can be ignored at will.

chickie
aka
Tania

plantchick · #2 08-12-2008, 02:03 AM

Some info on her (and please excuse the mile long posts, but 1. I'm excited & 2. I've seen most of the stuff I'm putting down in newbies posts over time, so I just figured I'd get it over with and dump it all in one place)

The girl I bought it from has had it about 3yrs & bought it from a dealer's auction in Brisbane. For over half that she's been garaged. First for 18mths when she moved up here, then most of the past six months 'cause she has a company car. Think the windscreen was an issue. I know it was serviced at least three times from stickers in the car, rear bearings were done, front and rear suspension done & bushes/magnets in the alternator.

VIN: JF2CXWAR0EH002178
Engine Type: EG33DGX1DL
Trans Type: T2102YP1BA
Trans No (I think!) 014929
Option code: BL
Build date: April '92

Paid: $4,500

So far...

New windscreen & retint
replaced oil, air and fuel filters
replaced engine, front & rear diff oils
Ran injector cleaner through - huge difference!

Next... trans service... I'm considering myself lucky there's no new error codes. (haven't been game enough to run engine and brake systems, but, armed with printouts of How-To's, am about to go and give them a shot).

Then... and this is a bit scary & the only upleasant surprise to date... apparently she needs a new steering rack.

Generally she runs beautifully. She can be a bit rough on the first startup of the day and a little sluggish the first five minutes or so driving. (seems common from what I've read). Running injector cleaner through it helped a ton & since sitting around so much for so long might explain it, it'll be a 'wait and see' thing. Other than that the engine is really quiet, though there's a slight flux at idle The mechanic laughed at me yesterday when he got in the car and 'felt' it - said that now I was just being picky!

Though I think I might have a bit of the famed & wonderful heat shield rattle...

So... can you tell I've kinda fallen for my car?

I've never done more than change oil and flush a radiator before, but yesterday found myself pricing ramps/jacks/torque wrenches.....

uh-oh

drivemusicnow · #3 08-12-2008, 02:22 AM

Uh-oh is right, the bug has bitten you.

First off, Yes, the OEM gasket with the aftermarket filter will work great, the cork ones tend to not work as well.

As for the trans service, change the fluid, drive it for a while, and then change it again. Figure about 5000 miles between the first and second trans fluid changes. This should almost entirely replace the trans fluid with new, and it will help with keeping the trans happy.

You might want to figure out what part of the steering rack is bad. Sometimes you can replace seals/hoses/ etc on the steering rack when the mechanical bits are fine.

Good luck and have fun.

Greg

oab_au · #4 08-12-2008, 02:25 AM

Giday mate, sounds like you are a happy chick

.
Good move to read the forums first you get up to speed quicker.
How many Klms?
Yes get him to do the transmission, also to reverse flush the cooler in the radiator to see if there are any flecks of clutch facings stuck in there. Some shed pieces to block the cooler which robs the lube to the gear train, and disappointment follows.

Does the trans do the 2nd to 3rd gear change OK? If the band needs tightening it will 'flair' (revs up a bit). Depends on the mileage.

Welcome to the forums too.
Harvey.

plantchick · #5 08-12-2008, 04:07 AM

Hiya Greg.
Yup, I've been bitten alright and we have some biiig bugs up (or down, in your case) this way. Thank you for the welcome and info. I'm not quite mechanically illiterate, but I am still learning how to spell.

So would changing the fluid again after driving for a bit would mean that any bits 'n pieces of gunk the first change didn't get rid of or were stirred up of would be flushed out the second time?

I'm hoping the steering won't need to be replaced, but the mechanic doesn't give it much chance. He washed under the engine last week so the leak could be tracked then I took it back in yesterday for him to have a look. He let me under the hoist and it doesn't look good, but I did go for a bit of a drive on Saturday, so maybe fluid has just been spread around. He'll have more of a look tomorrow and I thought I might give changing the pump o-ring a shot, to start, then see if I think I can tackle hoses etc.

*grin* only I'm gonna need a better socket set....

====

G'day to you too, Harvey and oh yeah, I'm a very happy chickie. Seriously can't wipe the grin from my face. A number of your posts and bits and pieces you've referenced in other threads have been really helpful, so thank you.

I figure my best chance of keeping her sound, especially when the people that work on her aren't likely to know much about her, is to learn as much as I can and know what to look out for.

How on earth, with all that stuff I put down, did I manage to miss her kms???

184,500km

Yup, she is a bit off on 2nd to 3rd shift (positively pored over the recent thread on this) and the revs do go up, though only slightly. More pronounced is that it's a slow shift and she seems to pull up a bit, more on light acceleration than heavier. Reverse is also slow to engage, 1-1.5 secs, and thunks a bit. 1st to 2nd and 3rd to 4th are smooth and barely noticeable.

I'm a little lost on what of revs are 'normal' yet and haven't been able to find much info. I do know that its a lot higher thanr than my previous car (the only other car I've owned - an '82 230E Benz affectionately known as 'the old girl').

Thank you for the tip on the radiator and the easy for a beginner to understand explanation - I've taken notes!
It sounds like a wounded wallet would go along with the disappointment and I'm already skirting the outer limits of what was meant to be my budget.

Tania.

svxistentialist · #6 08-12-2008, 06:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by plantchick

So changing the fluid again after driving for a bit would mean that any bits 'n pieces of gunk the first change didn't get rid of or were stirred up of would be flushed out the second time?
Well, actually the main reason is when you change the fluid only about half of it will flow out under gravity. A few litres are held in the torque converter and the galleries. Changing oil the second time means you should have no more than 1/4 of the old oil still in there.
And hopefully you will have taken out any gunk, but if the filters are doing their job no gunk should have been cruising through your transmission anyway.

I'm hoping the same on the steering, but the mechanic doesn't give it much chance. He washed under the engine last week so the leak could be tracked then I took it back in yesterday for him to have a look. He let me under the hoist and it doesn't look good, but I did go for a bit of a drive on Saturday, so maybe fluid has just been spread around. He'll have more of a look tomorrow and I thought I might give changing the pump o-ring a shot, to start, then see if I think I can tackle hoses etc. *grin* only I'm gonna need a better socket set....

You can buy seals for the rack from the USA. It is a serviceable item. Mainly with steering rack leaks it is caused by the high pressure or return lines, and these can be fixed. The O ring is good to do anyway, but it will not be the cause of your leaking down below, unless you have loads of oil underneath the reservoir.

====

G'day to you too, Harvey and oh yeah, I'm a very happy chickie. Seriously can't wipe the grin from my face. Your posts and bits and pieces you've referenced have been really helpful, so thank you. I figure my best chance of keeping her sound, especially when the people that work on her aren't likely to know much about her, is to learn as much as I can and know what to look out for.

How on earth, with all that stuff I put down, did I manage to miss her kms???

184,500km

Yup, she is a bit off on 2-3 (positively pored over that recent thread). The revs do go up, though only a little. More pronounced is that its a slow shift and she seems to pull up a bit, more on light acceleration than heavier. Am I right that my model is rev based rather than speed based? Reverse is also slow to engage, 1-1.5 secs, and thunks a bit. 1-2 are fine, as is 3-4 I really don't know what sort of revs are 'normal' yet and haven't been able to find much info, other than it seems quite a bit higher than my previous car. (previous car is also the only other car I've owned - an '82 230E Benz).

Thank you for the tip on the radiator and the easy for a beginner to understand explanation - I've taken notes! Disappointment and a wounded wallet, from the sounds. I'm already skirting the outer limits of what was meant to be my budget.

Tania.

Tania, when I got my first SVX from Japan I was close to tears there were so many things wrong. With help and encouragement from Harvey I fixed every one of them. Once the car was sorted, I had a flawless motor up till the day I sold it.

It's great you have so much enthusiasm, but remember to take it easy. Only tackle the "must do" jobs at first, and do the others when you have more time and money.

Joe

Hondasucks · #7 08-13-2008, 01:45 AM

A word on the trans flush: If he uses a flush MACHINE, (hooks up to the cooler lines, dirty fluid comes out one line, clean fluid fed into the other line) that will get all the old fluid out, and you won't need to do it again after 5,000 miles. If he is just draining the transmission pan and then filling it again, that won't get all the old fluid out, as previously mentioned.

plantchick · #8 08-13-2008, 03:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by svxistentialist

Tania, when I got my first SVX from Japan I was close to tears there were so many things wrong. With help and encouragement from Harvey I fixed every one of them. Once the car was sorted, I had a flawless motor up till the day I sold it.

Ooof, that must've hurt!

Until I took her back to track the oil leak, there'd been a little corner of dread, wondering if there were any nasty surprises lurking out of sight. Now she's been checked out I feel much easier - still a bit scary, but seems manageable. Thanks for the encouragement.

Quote:

It's great you have so much enthusiasm, but remember to take it easy. Only tackle the "must do" jobs at first, and do the others when you have more time and money.

Okay, so you've got me pegged here and you're right, of course. My immediate goal is to make sure she's sound mechanically so I don't worsen any existing problems, but I admit to an ever increasing list of things I'd like to do. I'm trying to prioritise them. e.g. making sure seals are weather proof before wet season hits really should come before tidying up paintwork as best I can (a respray is on the list, but I'm a long ways off being able to afford it).

*hides the buff and polish behind her back*

But gosh sorting out the sticking sunroof and most of the scratches from the drivers door was satisfying....

Tania.

oh - the windscreen and tint might sound frivolous, but had to be done or she wouldn't have passed a roadworthy. Windscreen was cracked pretty much top to bottom on the drivers side and the door window tint was so damaged it obstructed vision.

plantchick · #9 08-13-2008, 03:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hondasucks

A word on the trans flush: If he uses a flush MACHINE, (hooks up to the cooler lines, dirty fluid comes out one line, clean fluid fed into the other line) that will get all the old fluid out, and you won't need to do it again after 5,000 miles. If he is just draining the transmission pan and then filling it again, that won't get all the old fluid out, as previously mentioned.

Hi Hondasucks,

That sounds a heck of a lot easier - and cheaper - so here's hoping they have one and now I know to ask. Thanks for taking the time to give me the information.

Tania.

Hondasucks · #10 08-13-2008, 10:13 PM

No problem

That's what we are here for! And don't forget some

of you with your SVX

plantchick · #11 08-13-2008, 10:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hondasucks

No problem

That's what we are here for! And don't forget some

of you with your SVX

heh... friends in Sydney have asked the same. Will try and get some when I get home from Uni - where I'm sitting in the Library 'studying' between lectures!

Tania.

plantchick · #12 08-15-2008, 05:31 AM

Quote for Subaru SVX 1992:

Power Steering Pump: $264.00
Power Rack: $464.00
Power Steering Hoses: $166.00
Wheel Alignment: $ 42.00
Power Steering Oil: $ 12.00
Fitting: $264.00

Total:
---------
$1212.00
---------

Just ouch.

On the plus side... the Boots, which are currently full of steering fluid from the hole in the hose, are sound. So since the rack comes with 'em I'll have a spare pair.

'least the wheel alignment is cheap... and hey, since I've just had one done, they'll be super aligned!
(s'ok, I know it doesn't work that way)

Trying to sort something out with the mechanic who did the roadworthy, since two different CV/Steering guys that have looked at it say it should never have passed.

===

plantchick · #13 08-15-2008, 05:57 AM

also on the plus side, my brakes and seatbelt work just fine.

Some twit in a bloody great ute decided to turn right into a cross street when I was maybe 35 or 40m from the intersection, travelling at 60km. Still amazed we didn't hit.

Thanks for teaching me to tap before hitting hard, Dad.

===

legacyau · #14 08-15-2008, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by plantchick

also on the plus side, my brakes and seatbelt work just fine.

Some twit in a bloody great ute decided to turn right into a cross street when I was maybe 35 or 40m from the intersection, travelling at 60km. Still amazed we didn't hit.

Thanks for teaching me to tap before hitting hard, Dad.

===

Hi Tania, Nice car ,does it feel tail happy on the gravel? the prices for the rack don't sound too bad at least they're available

so did the ABS actuate ? I'm assuming it has it as i'm under the impression our cars came with all options (to justify the enormous price when new )

cam

plantchick · #15 08-16-2008, 02:09 AM

Hiya Cam, can't really answer the gravel question - it was a truck pulloff beside the road. I did travel along its length (~50m) to get a feel on how she'd handle, but I went slowly. It felt pretty solid and pulling onto it from the road was smooth, but I don't know how she'd be at normal speed.

Quote:

the prices for the rack don't sound too bad at least they're available

so did the ABS actuate ? I'm assuming it has it as i'm under the impression our cars came with all options (to justify the enormous price when new )

Thanks for confirming the prices - you've saved me time trying to find out if they were reasonable! Was also given a lead on a guy who apparently rebuilds SVX's to dune buggy racers, so there's a possibility I can get ahold of secondhand parts.

Yeah, it does have ABS and I did feel a kind of pulsing when I hit hard. I haven't had ABS before but that's my understanding of what happens when it engages. I was conservative on the distance 'cause I find it hard to believe I could stop in the distance I think it actually was - more like 30-35m tops. Went back and measured it today (had just passed/was even with a favourite tree when I realised he was going to turn!). She pulled up beautifully - no locking and dead straight without having to fight the steering.

Tania.
p.s. hope you got my reply to your last pm.