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#1
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Driving that 4EAT
4EAT is immensely expensive to repair in Norway. How can I drive in order to minimize wear ?
Where I live it's a lot of 60-70 km/h zones, bends, up- and downhill. After only a few days with automatic, I find myself engine breaking a lot in 1st and 2nd gear. Does this means extra wear or is it of no concern? During urban driving, is D the better option or maybe 2 or 3? Is it better to actively use manual mode in fluctuating situations or let it run itself? Edit: On eurocars, apparently the water pump runs a channel to the transmission, probably for oil-to-water cooling and it's well under 15 degrees celcius here most of the year, I don't think an additional cooler will help.. but please correct me if I'm wrong.
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I got my girl, I got my glass, I got my car and I'm ready to f... |
#2
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Re: Driving that 4EAT
I think best way to keep the tranny in good shape is to change oil and filter
regularly. And also when you stop the car for redlight etc you sould put in in N. And not let the transmission go when you are staning on the brake over time.
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Alexander (Norway) My subarus: 1992 Svx LSI 5-MT(3.54) 1998 Legacy BG 2.5L GX |
#3
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Re: Driving that 4EAT
thanks. Exactly what do you mean with this sentence?
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I got my girl, I got my glass, I got my car and I'm ready to f... |
#4
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Re: Driving that 4EAT
3. The final drive gearing on the VTD 4EATs is different from the USDM ones, but here the problem is 4th gear, at low RPMs results in too low of line pressure to hold it in gear properly. So, there is a constant slip, grab, slip, grab, which you can't even notice. So even though it will shift into 4th at really low speeds, like 35mph, it's not good for it. Keep it in 3 until like 50mph, then shift to D. Because your trans is 3.7:1 final drive instead of 3.54, the speeds might be a bit different, but that's the idea. Also, the torque converter will lock up (in 4th) at anything above 50 mph if you're maintaining a pretty steady speed. This is good for reducing wear/operating temps.
Quote:
I thought the extra water pump line on the Euro cars was for an oil cooler for the engine? If it's for the trans, that's good, but I'd double check that.
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'94 Laguna Blue LSi ~159k.......JDM ultra short-geared 3.900 STi Version 7 6-speed w/ Cobb shortshifter, ECUtune 244,8.1mm/256,9.1mm i/e cams, group N motor mounts, '97 grille, JDM clear corners, Momo JDM Legacy GT steering wheel, apkarian's LED tails, silver STi BBS wheels, PWR radiator, redstuff pads f/r, drilled/slotted rotors, bontragerworks rsb #18, Koni/GC 450f/375r coilovers, Megan Racing adjustable lateral links, KMac c/c plates, Stebro exhaust, ECUtune 1v5, Optima battery in the trunk where it belongs. Turbo project '97 Ebony LSi ~137k #036.......Power mode mod, JDM clear corners, BBS wheels. AUX/pocket mod Now a mod "over there" ![]() |
#5
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Re: Driving that 4EAT
Another easy thing to do is to switch to synthetic ATF like Redline or Motul. Do a drain and refill, not a flush, about every 12k miles or 20k km.
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Tony 1996 Polo Green Subaru SVX LSi, 168,XXX miles, Redline D4 ATF, Redline 75W90 gear oil, K&N HP-4001 Oil Filter, Mobil 1 5W50 FS (3qt) and 5W30 High Mileage (4qt) Oil Blend, Motul RBF600 Brake Fluid, AC Delco A975C Air Filter, NGK BKR6EIX-11 plugs, Centric Rotors, Power Stop Evolution Carbon Fiber Ceramic Brake Pads 2005 Gray Acura RL, 165,XXX miles, Redline D4 ATF with Lubegard Platinum Protectant, Mobil 1 5W20 High Mileage Extended Performance Oil 2009 Red Toyota Venza, 123,XXX, Mobil 1 5W30 High Mileage Oil 1992 Red Ferrari 348 ts, 82,XXX, Redline everything |
#6
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Re: Driving that 4EAT
Yes, I'll try 3 in speeds under 45 mph, the drivetrain feels a bit unsetteled under that. I'm not sure whether this is a real phenomenon or if I can actually just hear the engine due to low tyre noise (I'm on spikes now).
I'll stay away from manual mode. Just recently I went slightly uphill on pure ice that was slightly melted (in D and maybe 12-15 mph), not even a hint of spinning. Impressed my friend. So engine breaking is all cool. Use Neutral when at stand still. I'll use synthetic next time I change fluids. And city driving?
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I got my girl, I got my glass, I got my car and I'm ready to f... |
#7
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Re: Driving that 4EAT
Well, brake pads are a lot cheaper than a transmission.......
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Alan 1987 928 S4 (Black) SOLD! ![]() 1997 SVX LSi (Ebony) SOLD! ![]() 2005 Legacy GT (Silver) [Cobb Stg 2+] SOLD! ![]() 1987 928 S4 (Black) SOLD! ![]() 2005 Forester XT Premium (Crystal Gray Metallic) SOLD! 2008 Lancer Evolution X MR (Apex Silver) [Cobb Stg 1+] 2015 Outlander Sport 2.4GT AWD (Mercury Gray) 2013 G37xS (Obsidian Black) |
#8
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Re: Driving that 4EAT
Can't argue with that!
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I got my girl, I got my glass, I got my car and I'm ready to f... |
#9
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Re: Driving that 4EAT
I keep mine in 3 when driving around town, and only put it in D when I get on the highway.
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2009 Volvo C70 T5 2008 Volvo S80 V8 2006 Range Rover Sport 2001 Audi S8 |
#10
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Re: Driving that 4EAT
Hmmmm.... why do you guys shift into neutral while standing still?
None of the clutches are applied - the input shaft still turns... I remember an issue with the 4speed ZFs in Range Rovers, Volvos and lots of other vehichles. A seal passed a little bit of flow to the A clutch apply piston and the relief drilling was too small causing burning of the said clutch while in neutral. If you are standing still in first gear all rotating components are still - no slip. The only thing is the converter is producing a little bit of more heat compare to being in neutral. Any comments? Tapani PS I think only the JDM VTD has the 3,7 gearing. |
#11
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Re: Driving that 4EAT
Quote:
I think all the VTD trans have 3.7 gearing. I'm only about 90% sure, I will wait for someone else to weight in.
__________________
'94 Laguna Blue LSi ~159k.......JDM ultra short-geared 3.900 STi Version 7 6-speed w/ Cobb shortshifter, ECUtune 244,8.1mm/256,9.1mm i/e cams, group N motor mounts, '97 grille, JDM clear corners, Momo JDM Legacy GT steering wheel, apkarian's LED tails, silver STi BBS wheels, PWR radiator, redstuff pads f/r, drilled/slotted rotors, bontragerworks rsb #18, Koni/GC 450f/375r coilovers, Megan Racing adjustable lateral links, KMac c/c plates, Stebro exhaust, ECUtune 1v5, Optima battery in the trunk where it belongs. Turbo project '97 Ebony LSi ~137k #036.......Power mode mod, JDM clear corners, BBS wheels. AUX/pocket mod Now a mod "over there" ![]() |
#12
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Re: Driving that 4EAT
I read somewhere that sitting in D is better than N for gas consumption. Something something Injectors sending less something something.
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http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/z...93705d9zzz.png |
#13
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Re: Driving that 4EAT
How come we don't have a japanese resource at Fuji to answer all these questions for us? We should contact he japanese SVX guys and hear if they have a contact.
The outside Japan Subarus are sales and service people, there's no information threre.
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I got my girl, I got my glass, I got my car and I'm ready to f... |
#14
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Re: Driving that 4EAT
Is engine braking that bad for our cars? booooo
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DOHC boxer six, second best sound to the ears to the Ford inline 300! |
#15
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Re: Driving that 4EAT
__________________
'94 Laguna Blue LSi ~159k.......JDM ultra short-geared 3.900 STi Version 7 6-speed w/ Cobb shortshifter, ECUtune 244,8.1mm/256,9.1mm i/e cams, group N motor mounts, '97 grille, JDM clear corners, Momo JDM Legacy GT steering wheel, apkarian's LED tails, silver STi BBS wheels, PWR radiator, redstuff pads f/r, drilled/slotted rotors, bontragerworks rsb #18, Koni/GC 450f/375r coilovers, Megan Racing adjustable lateral links, KMac c/c plates, Stebro exhaust, ECUtune 1v5, Optima battery in the trunk where it belongs. Turbo project '97 Ebony LSi ~137k #036.......Power mode mod, JDM clear corners, BBS wheels. AUX/pocket mod Now a mod "over there" ![]() |
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