Yellowish headlights

SilverSpear · #1 11-09-2004, 06:40 AM

guys, my headlights are getting yellowish every day. I made like 1000 times polish, it works at first, but by short time they return to yellow. can anyone think of a reason ??? and do the clear headlights conversion by smallcar really work (they do not become yellow) ?

michael · #2 11-09-2004, 06:50 AM

Hi Spear, check out the how to folder for headlight cleaning. I use 1200 grit sandpaper followed by compound polish followed by wax. That seems to do the trick, if you feel adventureous you can bake the lights in an oven "make sure you read the how to on this one" open them up and clean the insides as well as the out. The clear headlights are nice but they are just that, there is no fluting like on the stock lenses. They would however look good for your application since you're shooting for a more modern look. If you can't find the cleaning in the how to try a search. Good luck!

n00b on demand · #3 11-09-2004, 01:49 PM

Get some medium cut rubbing compound. Rub it into the outside of the headlights and just rub em clear. Works wonders. And is much easier than having to open the headlights and clean the inside. You may have to do this once a week but it only takes 5 mins or your time. Quick and easy and works well.

#4 11-09-2004, 04:10 PM

He said he's tired of doing that.

Danny, go grab some wet/dry sandpaper and go to town. I'd start at 220 or so, and wet sand up in incriments to about 1000. Clean it with rubbing alcohal, and apply a couple coats of clearcoat. Now your lights will be almost as clear as glass and it will last a long time. I did mine over a year ago and there is still no signs of yellowing.

NapaBavarian · #5 11-09-2004, 04:55 PM

220 would probably be too agressive and you might not be able to the scratches out first, 1000-1200 sounded good. When I color sanded paint anything coarser than 600 was almost impossible to pollish out and plastic is much softer.

nextse7en · #6 11-09-2004, 07:54 PM

psst... don't use 240 grit valve lapping compound.

NapaBavarian · #7 11-09-2004, 07:56 PM

Does this come from experence Mr. 7?

#8 11-09-2004, 08:45 PM

1000 is to light to start with. You have to get rid of the oxidation, and a lil bit more than that to really make sure it wont come back.

SilverSpear · #9 11-10-2004, 01:52 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by THAWA
He said he's tired of doing that.

Danny, go grab some wet/dry sandpaper and go to town. I'd start at 220 or so, and wet sand up in incriments to about 1000. Clean it with rubbing alcohal, and apply a couple coats of clearcoat. Now your lights will be almost as clear as glass and it will last a long time. I did mine over a year ago and there is still no signs of yellowing.

aha, now it makes sense !!! gr8 idea !! i will do that !!!

SilverSpear · #10 11-10-2004, 01:54 AM

thank you all guys, you were most helpful

mohrds · #11 11-10-2004, 08:28 AM

Start with 400, then 600, then 1000, then 1500, then 2000.

Alternate strokes with each grit. For example, run the 400 left and right, then the 600 up and down. That way you can tell when you are finished with each grit. If you see strokes from the previous grit, you have more sanding to do.

using this method, when you get to the 2000, the lenses will be almost crystal clear and the polish will finish them up to be clearer than new.

The secret to a great finish is alternating strokes.

Doug

SilverSpear · #12 11-10-2004, 08:50 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by mohrds
Start with 400, then 600, then 1000, then 1500, then 2000.

Alternate strokes with each grit. For example, run the 400 left and right, then the 600 up and down. That way you can tell when you are finished with each grit. If you see strokes from the previous grit, you have more sanding to do.

using this method, when you get to the 2000, the lenses will be almost crystal clear and the polish will finish them up to be clearer than new.

The secret to a great finish is alternating strokes.

Doug

ahaa, good point, thanks. does the polish have to be the thick kind or the thin kind (i dunno what to call it exactly)

mohrds · #13 11-10-2004, 09:16 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by SilverSpear

ahaa, good point, thanks. does the polish have to be the thick kind or the thin kind (i dunno what to call it exactly)

Start with the thick, end with the thin. Polishing is a cumulative process, like sanding. Each finer grit removes the previous grit's scratches until the grit is so fine that it leaves scratches undetectable to the human eye.

Wash with rubbing alcohol, then clear coat for several years of use.

Doug

mbtoloczko · #14 11-10-2004, 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by mohrds
...

Wash with rubbing alcohol, then clear coat for several years of use.

Doug

Do you clear coat the inside and outside? Just wondering because it would seem to me that a clear coat on the inside would get burned pretty quickly by the heat and radiation from the lights.

mohrds · #15 11-10-2004, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by mbtoloczko

Do you clear coat the inside and outside? Just wondering because it would seem to me that a clear coat on the inside would get burned pretty quickly by the heat and radiation from the lights.

Outside Only.

The inside doesn't yellow, it just gets an oily haze which gives it a yellowish hue.

Doug