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  #1  
Old 04-01-2005, 02:35 PM
Green1995SVX
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Installing FWD 5-speed in AWD SVX

Quick question for those of you who are "in-the-know." I'm installing a FWD manual transmission in my 92 AWD SVX. What is done in the back to keep the back sides of the hub from being open (where the splined end of the axle shaft inserts)? Is there some sort of plug that goes there on the FWD models or something? Please advise.

Mike (Looking forward to roasting 225's)
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  #2  
Old 04-01-2005, 02:38 PM
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  #3  
Old 04-01-2005, 04:58 PM
deruvian
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Green1995SVX
Quick question for those of you who are "in-the-know." I'm installing a FWD manual transmission in my 92 AWD SVX. What is done in the back to keep the back sides of the hub from being open (where the splined end of the axle shaft inserts)? Is there some sort of plug that goes there on the FWD models or something? Please advise.

Mike (Looking forward to roasting 225's)
While I haven't myself taken things apart back there, I have heard that the FWD models simply had very small axle stubbies in the hub. If anyone can post a picture of the inside of the rear wheel area, I can compare to my FWD and let you know.

On another note, I have looked at the subaruparts.com diagrams, and compared there as well. I did not see any difference in the hubs/brake assembly from my 94 FWD to the 94 AWD (aside from the lack of ABS).

BTW - Mike, what are you going to do with the spare rear-end parts? I am very much considering converting my FWD 4EAT to a AWD 5MT this summer. Let me know, I might take those parts off of your hands.
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  #4  
Old 04-01-2005, 05:01 PM
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I would just take the axle apart and leave the housing for the CV Joint there. In essence you could leave the whole dif on unless you're wanting to sell it.
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  #5  
Old 04-01-2005, 09:58 PM
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I also vote for grabbing a couple halfshafts and getting friendly with a hacksaw. I don't think balancing will be a huge issue since the radius from the center to the outside of the halfshaft is very small.
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Old 04-02-2005, 02:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IggDawg
I also vote for grabbing a couple halfshafts and getting friendly with a hacksaw. I don't think balancing will be a huge issue since the radius from the center to the outside of the halfshaft is very small.
I kinda dissagree because Tires are balanced to the ounce otherwise you get one hell of a vibration... but that me thinking
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  #7  
Old 04-02-2005, 03:12 AM
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That's only because they put the weights so far out on the wheel. the very inside of the wheel rotates at a much lower speed than the outside because the circumfrence is smaller. that's why you can put a castilated nut with a cotter pin through it on the axle without worrying about causing vibration (since the nut/cotter pin combo is far from symmetrical)
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ECUtune stage 1, bead crush, smallcar shift kit, TB bypass, SS brake lines, silencer removed, alternator and grounding wires, Mobil1 @ 117k
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  #8  
Old 04-02-2005, 07:56 AM
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Stubs

Leave the wheels as they are and get two stub axle shafts from a wrecked FWD vehicle(they are only about 7-8 inches long). They will just bolt in the wheel with the axle nut the same as the axleshafts. Even if you have to order them from Subaru, they should not be tremendously expensive. If you want to save weight you not only remove the rear drive shaft, but also the rear differential AND the mounting frame for the rear differential. There should be a significant weight savings.

Lee
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Last edited by lhopp77; 04-02-2005 at 05:08 PM.
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  #9  
Old 04-02-2005, 05:36 PM
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Sorry Mike, I just offered my stubbs to Ben for his Auto-Xer.

altho just about any rear half shaft could be cut ang gutted to work.
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  #10  
Old 04-04-2005, 06:54 PM
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they are not just stube, the are basically the outer partys of the half-shafts. there needs to be something holding the wheels on.

Tom
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