What to do, What to do??

-JJ- · #1 01-03-2006, 11:33 PM

Ok so most of you know i have no more transmisson, the following are my options: (prices in AUD)

1) Rebuild: svx 4eat, between $1800 - $2250
2) Purchase 4.11 4eat (with diff) for $1200 (has 104000kms on it

) from a 1998 RX liberty (lecacy)
3 ) Purchase a JDM 4.44 4eat (with diff) for $900 (from a trusted friend) from a 96-97 legacy TT (GT)

*ok so i need to know wheather option 2, and 3 autos can plug and play? or do they use different wiring harneses??
*also what exactly does need to happen with the drive shafts, i know they need to be modifyed, but in what way??
*also when and why do you need to install a 20ohm resistor??

if some one dosent mind posting that would be nice

, otherwise i will continue sifting through the seach results

ensteele · #2 01-04-2006, 12:23 AM

You might PM Huck or Tom and see what they think. They would have a better idea on what to do. Good luck.

oab_au · #3 01-04-2006, 03:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by -JJ-

Ok so most of you know i have no more transmisson, the following are my options: (prices in AUD)

1) Rebuild: svx 4eat, between $1800 - $2250
2) Purchase 4.11 4eat (with diff) for $1200 (has 104000kms on it

) from a 1998 RX liberty (lecacy)
3 ) Purchase a JDM 4.44 4eat (with diff) for $900 (from a trusted friend) from a 96-97 legacy TT (GT)

*ok so i need to know wheather option 2, and 3 autos can plug and play? or do they use different wiring harneses??
*also what exactly does need to happen with the drive shafts, i know they need to be modifyed, but in what way??
*also when and why do you need to install a 20ohm resistor??

if some one dosent mind posting that would be nice

, otherwise i will continue sifting through the seach results

Option 1. Good value, depends on who rebuilds it.

Option 2. $1200 will grow to about $1800 or more, by the time you lengthen the drive line (our box is longer than the US model), fit the rear diff gears in, and supply a Liberty TCU. You will lose the 36%/64% torque AWD.

Option 3, Too low a ratio, good for driving around Tasmania.

The 20 ohm resistor is to replace the 10 ohm dropping resistor, behind the battery, to raise the line pressure a bit.

Harvey.

-JJ- · #4 01-04-2006, 03:52 AM

but i have plans do do cam work..... didnt u specify the need to have a 4.11 or 4.44 to do that sort of work (incresing durations etc)?? or can i do the cam work on the stock ratio?

Also option 1 was a quote from the builder of the rigoli wrx auto box

basically i dont wanna get the stock box fixed now if later i need to change it again to do the cams

oab_au · #5 01-04-2006, 05:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by -JJ-

but i have plans do do cam work..... didnt u specify the need to have a 4.11 or 4.44 to do that sort of work (incresing durations etc)?? or can i do the cam work on the stock ratio?

Also option 1 was a quote from the builder of the rigoli wrx auto box

basically i dont wanna get the stock box fixed now if later i need to change it again to do the cams

Depends on what cam, if you use the 247*8mm cam, it will work with the standard ratio, remember ours is lower at 3.7. If you are going bigger duration, and higher up the rpm range, or want the lower speed acceleration,
then use the 4.11. decide now. If you want to go lower ratio, get them to rebuild it with the 4.11 front diff, and fit the 4.11 in the svx rear.

Honestly I think the rebuild, by them, well make a bullet proof box. The SVX box has a stronger high clutch and better AWD than the four cylinder boxs.

Harvey.

huck369 · #6 01-04-2006, 06:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oab_au

Depends on what cam, if you use the 247*8mm cam, it will work with the standard ratio, remember ours is lower at 3.7. If you are going bigger duration, and higher up the rpm range, or want the lower speed acceleration,
then use the 4.11. decide now. If you want to go lower ratio, get them to rebuild it with the 4.11 front diff, and fit the 4.11 in the svx rear.

Honestly I think the rebuild, by them, well make a bullet proof box. The SVX box has a stronger high clutch and better AWD than the four cylinder boxs.

Harvey.

Option 3 is the easiest and simplest option, yes the 96-97 EAT is a "plug and play" box for it, and the Legacy TT has the same stronger high clutch as the SVX, and the lower final drive will make it easier on the tranny too (plus a 4.44 SVX is WAY more fun to drive

) you will still have to install a 4.44 ring and pinion into the rear diff too, but the driveshaft should be the same.

Granted I'm not down under, so I'm not as sure of the differences in the trannys down there....but either way installing another auto is the easiest fix, plus you get the added performance of the lower ratios.

Just my thoughts on it....

TomsSVX · #7 01-04-2006, 09:05 PM

4.11/4.44 for around town and racing. stocker for highway. You can make cams to suit your driveline not driveline to suit the cams

Tom

-JJ- · #8 01-05-2006, 05:16 AM

ok option 2 is out!

Its either option 1 or option 3

I am getting two arguments, i would realy like to hear what Harvey has to say about huck's comments, to reasure me that no drive shaft work is needed with this box and that the stock tcu will plug and play prefectly!

Just to clarify the drive shaft issue is it the rear drives shafts in question or the shaft between the diff and the box??

Also harvey i enjoy corners....a lot

, when i go out for i drive i take mountain passes, or drive somewhere to take a pass

, would the 4.44 be suited? will it go like a dog or be more fun as huck put it.

also Huck "install a 4.44 ring and pinion into the rear diff too, but the driveshaft should be the same."

do you mean modify my stock diff, or replace it with the 4.44 rear diff?

huck369 · #9 01-05-2006, 06:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by -JJ-

ok option 2 is out!

Its either option 1 or option 3

I am getting two arguments, i would realy like to hear what Harvey has to say about huck's comments, to reasure me that no drive shaft work is needed with this box and that the stock tcu will plug and play prefectly!

Just to clarify the drive shaft issue is it the rear drives shafts in question or the shaft between the diff and the box??

Also harvey i enjoy corners....a lot

, when i go out for i drive i take mountain passes, or drive somewhere to take a pass

, would the 4.44 be suited? will it go like a dog or be more fun as huck put it.

also Huck "install a 4.44 ring and pinion into the rear diff too, but the driveshaft should be the same."

do you mean modify my stock diff, or replace it with the 4.44 rear diff?

I have installed a JDM Turbo Legacy 4.44 box into a SVX before, it was a plug and play....(but that was on a US car)

The drive line that has to be legthened on a 5-speed swap is the drive shaft between the box and the rear diff.

To install a 4.44 rear diff you have to swap ring and pinion, as Subaru never made a 4.44 rear LSD diff that will use the SVX axles, so you have to use the SVX LSD unit so you can use the stock rear axles.

If you like corners, the lower gearing will make you more happy, and be easier on the transmission, so the 4.44's sound like what you need to me.

TomsSVX · #10 01-05-2006, 12:06 PM

Get the 4.44 auto. I can do the rear work for you and even get my hands on a USDM driveshaft. So that will all be a bolt up. I just need to get a 4.44 R160 in my shop to do the LSD swap. Just let me know. Also, do you Aussie boys have component driveshafts?? The 2 piece thats seperates at a center 4 bolt flange? or do you also have the CV style?

Tom

oab_au · #11 01-05-2006, 05:26 PM

Looking at your options. To replace the Svx box, that is an Euro type, with a Liberty, would have to have the front of the drive shaft extended, as the Euro AWD box is about 3" longer that the Liberty Transfer box.The TCU has to be replaced, with the Liberty, and the Liberty ratio fitted to the rear diff.

The problems, as I see them is that the tail shaft is two piece, with a Double offset joint in the center bearing. This type of shaft is not able to be pulled apart,( Huck may know how to do it), but the front end of it would have to be extended, to reach the Liberty.

I think the 4.44 would be too low for what you want, especially if you do fit the higher lift cams. Too low a gearing with more torque, would run you through the lower gears too quick. Ask Chike what he thinks would be the best ratio for what you want? I think the 4.1 would suit you better. You can compare what it would be like if your Liberty had another 100HP.

I would get the SVX box rebuilt with the 4.1 front diff, and fit the 4.1 into the rear diff at the same time. This way you get the lower gearing that you want, and still keep the best AWD there is. I have driven my Liberty hard in the twisties, and the Transfer AWD is not suited to it, as much as the SVX 40/60 AWD is. You would not have to alter the drive shaft, or the TCU.

Harvey.

-JJ- · #12 01-06-2006, 01:58 AM

so basically harvey you are saying a jdm 4.44 box would not plug and play into an australian delivered svx

#13 01-06-2006, 03:48 AM

Just buy a conversion kit and slap in a steelcase supra 5 speed, (great for wheelspin!!!)
Too many questions, none of which seem specific to me, sorry JJ.
Although I do not believe that a 4.44 'diff conversion', (if that's what you're thinking of doing?), would 'plug and play', there are calibrations in the TCU for speed semsors etc which control gear changes etc, I don't 'think' it would work 'that easy'
Sorry
Sixpack

TomsSVX · #14 01-06-2006, 01:24 PM

Harvey, what is so different about the Aussie TCU that it would not plug and play? I thought the only difference was the gear ratio??

Tom

oab_au · #15 01-06-2006, 04:35 PM

Unless the JDM 4.4 box has the epicyclic 40/60, AWD and is the same length as the Aus. SVX box, which I doubt, It won't plug n play, the tail shaft will have to be lengthened. The Difference AWD makes the Aus. box about 3" longer than, either the US SVX or the Liberty/Legacy/JDM.

If you replace it with any other box, the TCU has to be changed, as the different AWD is operated differently by the TCUs.

Harvey.