Need to take rear differential out

[seion]

So, what do I need to do to take the rear diff out? Let me share w/ you my interpretation:

1) Take exhaust off
2) Take heat shields off
3) Remove 2 nuts on top of diff that connect it to frame
4) Remove small cross member supporting diff from bottom
5) Lower diff w/ jack (already in place to suport diff)

Do I need to do anything special to remove the rear CV axles from the diff?

[Ken92SVX]

I replaced the rear diff on my car a couple of weeks ago. The Haynes manual said to remove the axle nuts for the rear axle to remove the axle but this is not necessary. You should not have to remove the exhaust either. The main thing you need to do to get the play needed to remove the drive half shafts is to remove the long bolt that goes through the hub and suspension components. THis gives you play to pull the half shafts out of the rear diff. Then after the axle half shafts are disconnected then you remove the front bolts on the drive shaft and the diff supporting bolts. You will need a pry bar to pry on one of the side casing bolts to pry the half shaft out of the diff. I is tough to get it to go but it should come free after a little while.
You wil need to work with it a little to get the diff cleared from the muffler but you should be able to do it. Good luck!

[nextse7en]

I'ma gonna have to agree, you have to disconnect the hub of one of your wheels, you don't have to go so far as take the whole suspension apart, just the really long bolt (about 9") and one or two others. after you look at the setup, it should become plain how to remove enough bolts to pull the hub away from the axle.

It will make your life easier if you disconnect the drive shaft and hang it with some twine, and if you remove the muffler.

Don't bang on the back of the diff, it looks sturdier than it is, and will crack.

[demonsvx]

When I removed mine for the trans swap I removed the exhaust, 2 nuts on the cover, the driveshaft bolts and the crossmember bolts. I then supported it with a floor jack and slowly lowered it. I then pryed on one of the axles using the sideplate bolt as a fulcrum point. When I popped on axle out I moved it out of the way and pulled the entire assembly away from the other axle, it should pop out also. There are little clips inside the carrier or on the axle stubs. I reversed this upon reassembly and had had no problems...........yet I hope this helps.

[seion]

Thank you guys. I'm still working on it, so I hope to soon post pics for tech xref and results too.

Rear diff is lowered, but those ~9" bolts at the base of the wheel hubs don't want to get out due to rust - they are giving me hell! But at least the diff is lowered and will try to dislodge the axles.

Just in case, I do not need to take off the four (4) bolts that seem to hold in place a plate on each of the diff sides right at the axle connections, right (I'm afraid gear oil might start oozing all out )?

[svxstarship]

You do not have to remove those four bolt on each side. Once you get the long bolt out from the hub you should be able to pull the axle away from the diff. Good luck getting that rusted long bolt out, I had to remove the hub (first disconnecting the links from where they join the frame) completely from the car and then cut it with a hackswaw between the link, so that I could pound it out. If you have to take this route and your abs sensor is rusted, disconnect it from under the rear seat and leave it attached to the hub. Abs sensor is easily damaged.

[seion]

Got the diff out. Pretty easy: just pry between the axle and the diff. Just a bit of pounding and *pop*, it was out. Thank you all for the help and advice.

This clears one of the many hurdles to get to the fuel tank. Almost there, but darn link between frame and hub doesn't let me drop the tank , and the bolts are very tough to loosen up. I will keep you posted on how I do.

[nextse7en]

I'm in oregon, we don't salt the roads,

What is this "rust" that you speak of?

In my effort to remove my transmission, not one single bolt needed more than a strong pull...

You poor bastards from everywhere else.

[Landshark]

Originally Posted by nextse7en

You poor bastards from everywhere else.

wait, you're from Oregon, right?

[Yoda3000]

so your ultimate goal is removing the fuel tank? Good luck. On my parts car my dad and I had to end up removing the entire rear subframe to get it out.

My car, purchased from Iowa, also has rust. Down here in the southwest everything is completely rust free. I miss my old rustree car

[seion]

Originally Posted by Yoda3000

so your ultimate goal is removing the fuel tank? Good luck. On my parts car my dad and I had to end up removing the entire rear subframe to get it out.

My car, purchased from Iowa, also has rust. Down here in the southwest everything is completely rust free. I miss my old rustree car

Yeah, just got my Chilton book on '85-'92 subies including SVX and it mentions the removal of the subframe. Ph0king great . I'm supporting the car on the rear subframe (front of it); now I need to find other points of support. Can anyone tell me where else I can put my jack stands under?

[Yoda3000]

Use the designated jack points. They're the little metal bits in front of the rear wheel wells just inside the plastic body work. I think the stock jack has pictures of it on it if you still have it.

[Earthworm]

We didn't remove anything to get the diff out. We disconnected the exhaust joint between the muffler and center pipe to give us the needed clearance. Axles stayed in place and we lowered the diff enough to pop the axles out.

Installation was just in reverse order.

[svxstarship]

Why are your removing the gas tank? If it is to replace a brake line it is not neccessary.

[seion]

Originally Posted by svxstarship

Why are your removing the gas tank? If it is to replace a brake line it is not neccessary.

Read post #7.