Replacing rear struts

[redlightningsvx]

Ok, for a while now i've noticed that my tires are REALLY close to my wheel well and have burned holes into the wheel well. Then I looked at my FSM for height specs for the front and rear struts and here are the results I got. Fronts were around + or- 5 from the stock 380mm from the center of the hub and the Rears were off -30mm from the stock height of 335mm. So i'd say my rear struts are severly shot and need replacing. I'm going to just go with OEM since I can get the whole strut assembly for -$100 a side. My question is that are the removale of the rear stut assembles pretty much unbolt the brake hoes, remove the stut housing bolts, then remove the 3 bolts on the top of the strut underneath the rear shelf? It just seems too easy and I just wandered if theirs any special tools i'll need besides a torque wrench and any special ways to do this, also will I need to get it aligned after this. Thanks

[Tim]

100 dollars per side is quite a decent price.

However I went the stock route a long time ago and they failed within a year.

I would check out your mounts as well just to make sure that they're not rotted out.

[Blacky]

The problem with buying stock struts is that they have sat on a shelf for 17 years and the seals have dried out.
It may be that your rear springs are sagging. They are cheaper to replace than struts.
Are the struts leaking? Does the back end bounce repeatedly when you go over a bump?

[SomethingElse]

search the forum for a possible how to on this..also other threads contain a list of all of the required tools, spring compressor, 19mm wrenches, sockets, rust penetrant. Get the upper strut mounts and the rubber isolaters as they rust and deteriorate.

My car was 2 inches low in the rear because of these....

and get an alignment.

[redlightningsvx]

Originally Posted by Blacky

The problem with buying stock struts is that they have sat on a shelf for 17 years and the seals have dried out.
It may be that your rear springs are sagging. They are cheaper to replace than struts.
Are the struts leaking? Does the back end bounce repeatedly when you go over a bump?

Yes, it has some bounce and i'm fully aware they have been sitting for a long time but at $100 a side i'm not complaining. As long as they last until I can shell out big money for konis.

Originally Posted by SomethingElse

search the forum for a possible how to on this..also other threads contain a list of all of the required tools, spring compressor, 19mm wrenches, sockets, rust penetrant. Get the upper strut mounts and the rubber isolaters as they rust and deteriorate.

My car was 2 inches low in the rear because of these....

and get an alignment.

I looked in the how to but it doesn't work. Also why would I need a spring compressor? I'm getting the ENTIRE assembly from the housing to the top mount. Also the FSM makes it look too easy, which is why I wanted some tips and other stuff. Those upper mounts are nasty looking.....lol

[Blacky]

Strut assemblies usually doesn't include the springs. You need the compressor to remove your old springs from the dead struts and install them on the new ones.
If you're getting the assembly including the spring for $100.00 per side, that's a sweet deal indeed.

[benebob]

You will be complaining when you need to do it 3 times in the next year and the SOA will say sorry your warraty is up when the 365 days passes from the initial purchase and you're left with very nice, shiney $100 Koni shells. Oh wait that was mine! Best part is it was less than 4k on 'em. Then again, I'm sure you'll have better luck

[Black88GTA]

The struts themselves have no effect on ride height. Zero, none. They only affect the handling / ride characteristics, and how the car absorbs bumps.

The things that would cause a rear end sag would be bad mounts or springs, or possibly damaged spring perches on the strut bodies themselves (although I've never seen this). A car can have completely shot struts, but will still maintain proper ride height if the springs and mounts are in order. It's my understanding that our mounts tend to rust out, so I'd check the mounts first. If those are OK, look at your springs.

[redlightningsvx]

I'm going to take a look at them tomorrow. So what the best way to inspect them, removing the rear shelf?

[Tim]

Originally Posted by redlightningsvx

I'm going to take a look at them tomorrow. So what the best way to inspect them, removing the rear shelf?

It'd probably be the most time consuming, but most thorough to make sure the rubber spring seats are still intact as well as the condition of the mounts.

[redlightningsvx]

Well taking out the interior for me is a piece of cake. I'ved had pretty much all of it out 3 times. I'll post what I find tomorrow. Thanks

[redlightningsvx]

Ok, just spent about 5 min tearing out the interior and looked at the top of the strut mounts and the rubber looks brand new. I also stuffed my hand into the wheel well and felt across the entire top of the strut and didn't feel any corrosion or holes. So my only guess would be both springs are shot?

[redlightningsvx]

Well looking at the whole thing over again the foam that goes over the top mounts were torn like someone removed them before and the rubber looks brand new. I'm wondering if both struts were replaced before except the springs which could have twice as many miles as the struts.

[pearlm30]

It was both rusted struts mounts that made the rear sagging.

[redlightningsvx]

I finally got my rear springs today and removed the old ones out. With the struts out the right rear I pressed down and it came back up so that was good but, when I got to the right rear I pressed the strut down and it wouldn't come up so I just ordered a new one and the foam helper as it was destroyed in the blown strut. Good news is the car sits A LOT higher like it should. My tires were literally touching the wheel well now it sits about 2-2.5 in above