Are CV joints ever a problem?

#1 08-22-2002, 11:58 AM

How long do CV joints usually last in the SVX? The one I'm going to look at has a new transmission and new bearings, so all is well, but it does have 130,000 miles. Do you think they'll need ot be replaced soon?

- Ca$h

RSVX · #2 08-22-2002, 01:48 PM

They are only a problem if the boots get torn, at least in my experiences... I just had ONE replaced due to knocking while turning, and the only reason it went bad in my opinion is that I noticed the boot was torn allowing dirt grime etc in there. The other 3 are fine.

mattski · #3 08-22-2002, 02:07 PM

Someone recommended to me spraying the boots with WD40 to extend their life.

Mr. Pockets · #4 08-22-2002, 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Ca$h
How long do CV joints usually last in the SVX? The one I'm going to look at has a new transmission and new bearings, so all is well, but it does have 130,000 miles. Do you think they'll need ot be replaced soon?

- Ca$h

The thing to remember is that you have 8 boots to keep an eye on. If one is ripped for too long, of course the grease gets contaminated and turns into grinding paste.

My SVX has 132k miles on it. I replaced one boot on a rear axle over two years ago and have had no problems with it. I replaced the front left axle a couple months ago.

So, I would consider it very possible that the CV joints are worn and the axles will need to be replaced soon - but it's really hard to say.

As for replacing the axles, there's the easy way and the hard way. The hard way is having the dealer replace them - they can't get remanufactured axles, so they're ridiculously expensive. The easy way, if you have the means to do the work yourself, is to install a rebuilt axle yourself.

I was actually going to ship my axle to CV of Ocala (http://www.cvaxles.com/frame.htm), but I couldn't get the axle nut off and I was out of time. So I had to pay a local shop to replace the axle. It wasn't so bad - under $200. I talked to a guy at CV of Ocala who said that if I shipped him the axle, he'd rebuild it the day he got it and ship it the next day. I can't remember his price, but it was really low.

Whoah. More info than you really asked for.

#5 08-22-2002, 03:06 PM

Eh. Not really. If I tear a CV joint I know who to pester now. :P Thanks though. So basically, they aren't problematic, just like any other car, only there are twice as many to worry about.

- Ca$h

Mr. Pockets · #6 08-22-2002, 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Ca$h
Eh. Not really. If I tear a CV joint I know who to pester now. :P Thanks though. So basically, they aren't problematic, just like any other car, only there are twice as many to worry about.

- Ca$h

Yeah, basically.

The car's a Subaru, so what can I say? It's high-quality stuff, so it'll serve you well.

Beav · #7 08-22-2002, 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by mattski
Someone recommended to me spraying the boots with WD40 to extend their life.

Uh...the synthetic rubber that the boot is made of is actually a petroleum product and spraying it with anything petroleum based will encourage its premature disintegration. If you feel the dire need to spray it with anything (and I don't recommend it because the moist surface will just attract and hold dirt that will act as an abrasive) use a silicone spray.

CV joints can wear over time, just like any other lubricated wear item. Normally the wear will occur in the outer joint and be noticeable as a clicking while accelerating around a corner. This is usually commonly heard after a boot is torn open. However the inner joint can also cause a problem, noticed as a vibration under acceleration, just as a bad u-joint would in a rear-wheel drive car. Rear shafts rarely go bad as they don't have to turn side-to-side as the front joints do and they are also better protected from debris damage, as compared to the front joints.

mattski · #8 08-22-2002, 04:22 PM

Thanks Beav. When I remember who that "someone" is, I will have to wring their neck.

Thankfully, I have not done this yet to the SVX.

#9 08-22-2002, 04:24 PM

wouldn't armor all help? Armor all keeps the natural oils in inteiror plastic so it doesnt dry up and crack open... you'd think it would help the CV boots too.

- Ca$h

#10 08-22-2002, 11:34 PM

I would think that the CV joints are the worst of your worries. But I did have to get both of my front ones replaced, which was a total of 2 * 60 per axle + 90 for installation = 210. Still cheaper than some cars.

nvrmore100 · #11 08-22-2002, 11:37 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by gcookaustin
I would think that the CV joints are the worst of your worries. But I did have to get both of my front ones replaced, which was a total of 2 * 60 per axle + 90 for installation = 210. Still cheaper than some cars.

Did you replace just the boots or the whole axles?

I had a friend get a me a cost + 10% deal on my axles when I had them replaced, and I'm sure I paid almost $150 a piece for them.

Beav · #12 08-23-2002, 06:41 AM

My cost on reman axles here is $69 ea. In Denver they may be a bit cheaper, considering the larger market. I wouldn't expect them to vary more than 10%, one way or the other though. When I used to live in Denver (left in '96) we never paid more than around $80/axle, even for the weird applications.

nvrmore100 · #13 08-23-2002, 10:16 AM

That might explain it, I didn't get a reman, I bought new suby parts.

#14 08-23-2002, 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by nvrmore100

Did you replace just the boots or the whole axles?

I had a friend get a me a cost + 10% deal on my axles when I had them replaced, and I'm sure I paid almost $150 a piece for them.

Yeah, each axle was $60 after core refund.